Meredith Nursery Weblog

Growing Small Fruits

Strawberries.
Strawberries like a fertile soil which has had plenty of organic matter added, moisture and good drainage are essential as their root system is quite small.
Sensitive to frost they are easily protected by a layer of straw during winter.

Weeds can be a problem so prepare your bed carefully and mulch to prevent weeds and to keep fruit clean. Pine needles are an excellent mulch for strawberries.
Strawberries are prone to viruses which build up over time so it is best to replace your plants every three years with certified virus free plants
Home grown strawberries which are allowed to ripen on the bush are sweet and delicious and packed with Vitamin C.
Birds appreciate strawberries as much as we do so some protection is necessary.
Try strawberries sprinkled with a little balsamic vinegar and caster sugar. Delicious!

Bush Berries

Gooseberries.
Gooseberries grow on small bushes which are frost tolerant and quite happy in areas where they receive only morning sun, not as popular as they once were, they are still an excellent berry for those who enjoy making home preserves and jams.
Unripe berries are best for preserving, however if you wish to eat them fresh wait until they develop colour or they will be quite sour.

Blueberries.
Expensive to buy, these delicious berries are excellent in the home food garden, turn beautiful shades of red and orange in autumn and have delicate white or pink flowers in spring. High in antioxidents and vitamin C, blueberries are now regarded as one of the so-called “super foods” and they are well worth a little effort to supply their needs.

Blueberries enjoy an acid soil which must be well drained, constantly moist and have high levels of organic matter.
Mulch with an acidifying mulch such as semi rotted pine needles or oak leaves.
Blueberries enjoy a sunny spot with shelter from hot winds, they make excellent tub specimens planted into a potting mix suitable for their relatives the rhododendrens.
Pick when the berry is completely blue as they do not continue to ripen once picked.
Do not allow your bushes to fruit for the first two years, once established the stems will fruit for up to four years when they can be cut out at ground level and new stems encouraged.

Cane Berries.

A delicate fruit which needs to be picked at perfect ripeness to be fully appreciated.
These berries bring a premium price on the supermarket shelves however as they are picked firm for transportation they do not have the delicacy and sweetness of home grown berries.

Cane berries grow best in temperate to cool areas, and require well drained acid soil into which plenty of organic matter has been incorporated. Eradicate any perennial weeds as it will be almost impossible to remove them once your berries have been planted.
Mulching is essential to retain moisture in the soil and prevent reinfestation with weeds.
Plant berries about 30cm apart and prune the young canes back to about 20cm high.
All cane berries fruit on 2 year old canes with the exception of autumn fruiting raspberries.
Canes must be trained on a trellis and the best method is two to three wires at about 50-70 cm intervals which are stretched between two sturdy posts.
Birds can be a problem when growing cane fruits and it is best to net the trellis when your berries start to ripen.

Raspberries

Pruning can be done in summer or winter, simply remove the two year old canes which have fruited and bundle the new canes together in groups of three and tie them to the trellis.

For autumn fruiting raspberries prune out the canes which have fruited and tie the new canes as for other raspberries. Fruit will form on the tips of the new canes, cut back just below the fruit after the autumn harvest and you have the basis for next year’s crop.
Blackberries have become such a problem in many rural areas that we would never suggest planting them, however there are various blackberry and raspberry hybrids which it is quite safe to plant and which provide delicious berries.

Boysenberry
A vigorous hybrid with purplish fruit which is sweet and juicy. Fruit is harvested in December-January.

Youngberry
Quite similar to the Boysenberry, however berries are smaller and shinier and are often sweeter.
Harvest is about two weeks earlier than the boysenberry.

Loganberry
Thornless canes, and berries which turn deep purplish red when ripe.
Allow to ripen on the vine to develop the rich flavour and sweetness.
The loganberry makes excellent jam and can be harvested from November-January.

Silvanberry
As the name suggests this is a Victorian berry that fruits over a long period.
A good berry for those who require a longer fruiting period.
The harvest is December-February.

Marionberry
A delicate berry which is not as vigorous as the Boysonberry but is considered to be
superior in flavour.
The harvest is in December-January.

Currants.
Red, White and Black currants are old fashioned fruits which are enjoying a
resurgence in popularity. They have a tart flavour, but sweeten when ripe, making them perfect for sauce or mixing with some of the berry fruits in desserts where they contribute rich colours and flavours. High in pectin they make excellent jellies and jams.
Red and white currants are actually the same plant, the white currant is somewhat sweeter but lacks the levels of antioxidants which are found in red currants.
Black currants have high levels of antioxidants, however their flavour improved if they are cooked with sugar and they make delicious jams and jellies.
Currants enjoy fertile well drained soil rich in organic matter with a side dressing of blood and bone and some extra potash.
They will produce well in areas which have only morning sun and flower and fruit before the heat of summer arrives.
Mulch well to conserve moisture and some irrigation during summer will help to keep them productive.
Red and white currants produce fruit on stems which are two to three years old.
Remove the old four year old stems each year in late winter.
Black currants fruit on young wood of one to two years old so prune out any wood older than two years.

Jostaberries
Pronounced “Yostaberry”, this fruit is a cross between a blackcurrant and a gooseberry, they are resistant to mildew, free of spines and need little pruning.
Bushes grow to around 1.5 to 2m tall and nedd about 2m between them The large juicy fruit are ripe December-January and intermediate in size between a blackcurrant and a gooseberry.
Plant in rich well drained soil in a site protected from strong winds.
They are frost tolerant and can be planted in full sun.
Mulch well and include well rotted compost, fertilize in spring with blood and bone and keep moist during the hottest months.
They can be eaten fresh or added to fruit salad, used in desserts, and make excellent jam.They are high in vitamin C and can be frozen like most berries for out of season use.

Passionfruit
Passionfruit Big Boppa is a new passionfruit which bears very large, sweet, golden fruit on a hardy vigorous vine. A sunny position in moist well drained soil and a good quality fertilizer high in potassium will give great results.
Mulch well to conserve moisture.
Perfect for a fence , trellis or pergola.

Prepare for fruit plantings as soon as possible, dig in plenty of well decomposed organic matter and build up soil if drainage is a problem.

Compost Reasons for making Compost. Sustainable gardening seeks to provide the best conditions for optimum plant health with the smallest possible impact on the environment. The plants in our gardens need a constant supply of nutrients in order to grow and provide us with a pleasant environment in which to live, or nutritious food to eat. One of the cheapest and most environmentally sound ways of achieving this is by recycling household and garden waste to make compost. When we set out to do this we are decreasing the amount of waste we send to council tips and landfill and fertilizing our gardens at the same time. Compost is a balanced way of enriching and improving the health of your soil and encouraging the growth of strong, healthy, disease resistant plants. What is Compost. Compost is quite simply a method of speeding up the process which nature uses to make humus on the forest floor, where the constant renewal of the leaf layer and the shade created by the forest canopy, provides the moist conditions required by the microorganisms necessary for the breakdown of organic matter. Decomposition is the result of digestion and redigestion by a complex ecology of microorganisms, insects and worms which require both air and moisture to transform crude vegetation into humus. Humus is a very important form of decomposed organic matter, a complex mixture of substances and the last stage of the decomposition of organic matter. The soil chemistry of humus varies according to the types of organic matter, the soil organisms involved and the environmental conditions involved in humification. Brown or black in colour it has a light crumbly texture when dry, holds several times its own weight in water when wet and has a fresh “earthy” smell. Temperature fluctuations in the soil are relatively small compared to atmospheric changes and the soil animals are rapidly killed by dry conditions. Mulching in summer gives protection to soil life and improves the viability of soil. Most soil animals are oxygen breathers and cannot live in poorly drained and compacted soil. Making Compost. Compost can be made in heaps, wooden bins, plastic bins or compost tumblers, much depends on your proximity to neighbours, the size of your garden and the amount of compost you require. Compost can be made aerobically (with air) or anaerobically (without air). The most popular method of making compost is aerobic. Keep pets away, pets and compost don’t mix. Don’t add perennial weeds or seeds, or plant residue which is diseased. Meat and bones become smelly and attract flies and rodents. Glossy paper has chemicals in it and is best avoided, newspaper, shredded or torn is fine. Worms dislike onions and garlic. Materials for Compost. Most average households accumulate enough organic materials to make sufficient compost to supply garden needs. The most important factor is to balance the ingredients in your heap, that is the carbon/nitrogen ratio. High carbon materials are the dry, woody materials and the high nitrogen materials are wet and green. The microbes in your compost heap need a ratio of about 30 carbon to 1 nitrogen in order make body mass and multiply. A word about some common materials… Weeds… when green provide nitrogen Banana skins…rich in phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen Leaves…low in nitrogen, rich in minerals, slow to decompose unless shredded or ground with a lawnmower. Hair… high in nitrogen, feathers have similar qualities. Dust from the vacuum cleaner Grass clippings…high in nitrogen, need to be mixed with leaves or straw. Kitchen garbage facilitates the decomposition of other materials. Animal manure…fresh manure contains large amounts of active digestive enzymes and cellulose decomposing bacteria, which speed up heating and decomposition. Blood and bone…high in nitrogen, speeds up decomposition Lime or Dolomite…prevents odours, can speed the decomposition process. Azobacteria, that fix nitrogen in the compost are dependant on the availability of calcium. Calcium is an important soil nutrient essential to the formation of plant and animal protein, however if your soil is very alkaline then it is not necessary to add lime or dolomite to your compost. Lucerne hay… lucerne is a perennial legume which draws on subsoil minerals. Pea straw, hay and straw….nitrogen and carbon. Coffee grounds…nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, attract worms and prevent odour. Building the Heap. Materials available for compost will vary in most backyard situations however it is important to remember the nitrogen/carbon balance if you wish to produce good compost. The smaller the particles in your heap the quicker the decomposition, you can use a lawn mower to chop your materials or use a garden mulcher. You can still make compost without these gadgets it will just take a little longer! The correct moisture level in your heap is very important, too wet and you will have foul odours and a slimy heap, too dry and bacteria and fungi die, and decomposition will come to a halt. Compost with the correct amount of moisture should feel very damp when squeezed but you should not be able to extract much moisture. Turning the heap regularly supplies oxygen for the aerobic bacteria and hastens decomposition, the outer layers are distributed through the heap, the materials which have slumped and softened are fluffed up and recharged with air. If you cannot turn your compost do not despair you can still make compost without turning your heap it will just happen more slowly. If your pile has dried out turning and watering the layers will start the process of decomposition again. It is important to cover and protect your heap from heavy rain. A wet slimy heap quickly becomes airless and chilled and valuable nutrients can leach away. The addition of carbon materials throughout the heap will ensure the even distribution of moisture and get your heap going again. The best size for your compost heap is 1.5m wide and 1.5m long and at least 1.5m high. Smaller heaps will not heat up as well with the exception of the compost tumbler which is a rotating drum that can be turned frequently thus improving aeration and speeding up the process of decomposition. It is best for making small “one off” batches. Probably the best method is to have at least two bins one filled and heating and another gathering material ready for building. Plastic compost bins while not very large are best suited to people in urban situations, however decomposition can take a long time if the C/N ratio is not correct, or material comprises large resistant material like stalks and prunings. Heaps should be open at the base to enable worms and other soil life into your heap. Place some large stalks at the base to ensure airflow build your heap in layers using your high nitrogen and carbon materials and moisten between additions if your material is too dry. Finished compost can be applied directly to the soil, be sure to cover with mulch to protect your valuable humus. VISIT THE NURSERY SITE TO SEE A COMPOST HOW TO VIDEO

Meredith Nursery Newsletter - April 2008 Vol 2 No 3 Welcome to the April newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have. In this Issue Vegie patch Ornamental garden Native garden Orchard Deciduous trees Compost Making compost Compost materials Building a compost heap VISIT THE NURSERY APRIL April in the garden and we have had some rain, the garden has revived after the summer heat, the mornings are becoming crisp and wonderful autumn colours are emerging, what a great time to get out in the garden and plan some changes, plant evergreen trees and shrubs and prepare the garden for winter and bare root plantings. Autumn is a great time to tidy up the garden, reinvigorate a tired lawn, empty compost bins, and use all that garden refuse and abundant autumn leaves to start another batch for spring planting. In the vegetable patch plant seedlings of broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, beetroot, leeks, lettuce and spinach, sow seeds of broad beans, climbing and dwarf peas, kohl rabi and turnips. Keep these growing strongly with fortnightly applications of liquid manure to ensure maximum growth before the shorter days and colder temperatures of winter. Watch for slugs and snails which attack your tender seedlings at this time of the year, a quick patrol in the garden after dark with a torch is an excellent way of disposing of these pests. Snail pellets are effective but choose an environmentally friendly variety which will not harm pets and wildlife. If you haven’t already done so plant a green manure crop such as broad beans, peas, or lupins. Dig this into the garden in late winter or early spring and you will astounded at the difference it will make to your soil. Harvest pumpkins with the stalk intact if you wish to store them as this will prevent spores entering and rotting your long keeping pumpkins. Remove spent vegetable stalks and vines to the compost heap. Dig in compost and cover beds with mulch if you do not intend to plant them up immediately, this prevents weed infestation and loss of nutrients. In the ornamental garden trim back tired summer foliage on hellebores, lavenders and daisies. Plant late winter and spring flowering annuals, pansies, primula, cornflower, hollyhock, cineraria, sweet peas, nigella and ageratum. Perennials such as scabiosa, wallflower, aquilegia, carnation and dianthus will establish well if planted now. Overgrown and “woody” perennials will benefit from lifting, dividing and replanting now, it is a good way to increase your plants and promote flowering. Plant spring flowering bulbs in attractive pots to brighten doorways and patios in early spring. Now is a perfect time to move any plants you wish to relocate and to plant new evergreen trees and shrubs. They will have time to settle in and establish strong root systems before next summer. For a tidy appearance over winter clip box and other hedges . Now is an excellent time to establish a hedge and once again good soil preparation is the key to success. Dig the strip to be planted and eradicate any perennial weeds. Add some compost or well rotted manure and a balanced fertilizer. If the site is prone to drying out in summer add some water storing crystals. Planting should be based on the eventual size and spread of the shrub and can be formal or informal. If a formal appearance is required choose a species that will withstand regular clipping. To rejuvenate a lawn which is looking tired push the prongs of a garden fork into the soil at regular intervals then fertilize with blood and bone. Top dress with a layer of compost or sandy loam, using the back of a rake to rub it into the grass. In the home orchard remove all diseased and mummified fruit from trees and the ground beneath. Remove any weeds which have grown under fruit trees, they will rob your trees of nutrients and moisture. Mulch well to prevent reinfestation. Spray Bordeaux on peaches and nectarines for leaf curl. Prepare soil for bare root planting of new fruit trees in winter, dig in some compost and well rotted manure, mulch to conserve nutrients and moisture. For those with limited space the new dwarf form of the Meyer lemon “Lot’s A’Lemons” has sweet scented white flowers, an abundance of full sized fruit and grows well in either pots or garden. If you are planning on planting fruit trees, a new garden, a rose garden or deciduous plantings, bare root season is only 10-12 weeks away. We are happy to take orders and discuss your needs with you. If you would like to download either bare rooted and/or tubestock catalogues please click here and select as you please. In the native garden autumn is a perfect time to plant, this allows time for natives to become well established before the heat of summer is upon us again. Shrubs to plant include callistemon, melaleuca, hakea, grevillea, correa and larger acacias and eucalypts. Deciduous trees are putting on a magnificent autumn display, with so many beautiful trees now available to choose from there is a tree for every garden whether large or small. For red/pink foliage the Lipstick maple Acer rubrum “October Glory” grows to 12m high, has green leaves on red leaf stalks and colours to a deep pink/red in autumn. The well loved Claret ash, Fraxinus angustifolia “Raywood” has dark green foliage in spring and summer and deep red autumn colour. It likes a fertile soil and some summer watering and like the Lipstick maple tolerates warmer areas. Acer platanoides the Norway maple is one for the larger garden growing to 25m it has large leaves which turn red, orange and yellow tones in autumn. Also for the larger garden the Scarlet oak Quercus coccinea grows to 24m and lives up to its name with a brilliant scarlet display. The Golden elm Ulmus procera and the Tulip tree, Lirodendron tulipifera, both put on glowing golden foliage in autumn. A tree for the smaller garden, the “Forest Pansy” Cercis Canadensis is a beauty, it has heart shaped purple leaves `which turn red in autumn. In spring it produces an abundance of rose/pink flowers. Height is about 3.5m. Often overlooked, the Crabapples, (Malus) proved themselves to be tough and hardy during the recent drought, copper and orange foliage in autumn is followed by a beautiful display of blossom in spring and attractive small fruit in summer. The many varieties of ornamental pear (Pyrus) are also tough and undemanding plants which have low water needs once established. Foliage is red and purple in autumn and heights vary from 4-10m depending on the variety. The Crepe Myrtle, Lagerstroemia`indica is very popular for the wonderful display of flowers in shades of pink, rose pinks and deep mauves which blend so well with the other colours in the summer garden and is a blaze if colour again in autumn when it produces glowing shades of red and orange. Height is 4m. These are just a few of the many beautiful trees available and we are always happy to help you choose the most suitable tree for your needs. A well placed deciduous tree can protect our homes from the fierce heat of summer, and allow sunlight to penetrate and warm us in winter. Well that’s it for this month; enjoy the autumn sunshine and the rain. Happy gardening Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery. TOP

Meredith Nursery Newsletter - March 2008

Vol 2 No 2

Welcome to the March newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

In this Issue Barwon Water WATERSECURE program Jobs for the ornamental garden Hibiscus Pruning climbing roses Bare-rooted and Catalogue Home Orchard Native Garden

Visit the Nursery

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March The first month of Autumn has been hot and very dry so it is important to keep mulching to conserve moisture and prevent plants becoming stressed. New plantings, pot plants and hanging baskets will benefit from water storing crystals at planting time and to help to keep roots damp between waterings. The easing of water restrictions has made gardening a little easier this year and I think most of us have realised that the huge amounts of water we once thought necessary for successful gardening no longer hold true. More sustainable plantings and practices enable us to continue to enjoy our gardens without guilt. Water storing crystals absorb water and swell to form a reservoir for plants, they re -expand with each watering and last for a long time in the soil. Soil wetter granules have a different function, they work by helping water to penetrate soil and reduce wasteful runoff. The application of a layer of organic mulch has a similar action, while having the added advantage of adding humus to the soil. The use of soil wetters can be beneficial when applied to bare soils before application of a layer of mulch. It is important to remember that nature abhors a vacuum and will attempt to cover bare soil with weeds if we neglect to mulch. The importance of organic matter in the soil and its function in soil chemistry and the water holding capacity of the soil can not be overstated. For those who missed it the February newsletter contained some discussion of soil, how to recognize your soil type and how to correct soil problems. Following on this theme next month we will be addressing the subject of compost and the various techniques and methods used to make this valuable soil conditioner and fertilizer. For those of our readers who live within the Barwon Water region talk to us about the Barwon Water WATERSECURE program. This program is available to Barwon Water customers only and provides a subsidised garden assessment costing forty dollars. A trained horticulturist will visit your property to: Review garden design and plant zoning Assess plant selection and plant health Assess soil type and health and its ability to retain water Provide a watering schedule detailing how long, and how often, to water specific sections of your garden. Provide helpful tools such as a rain gauge and tap timer, and advise how to determine when to water. Provide tips on maintaining a healthy garden. Identify if the propery is suitable for grey water use. Suggest an appropriate rainwater tank size. Provide a personalised report containing technical information and recommendations. For more information and to organise an assessment contact: Meredith Nursery Ph:52861397 Top Now is the time to prepare soil for bare root plantings of roses, fruit trees and other ornamentals. A little time spent now will ensure the best possible start for your new plantings and ensure vigorous growth in Spring. Take a walk around your garden and observe any bare spots or plantings which have not been successful, now is an excellent time to plan changes to the garden and prepare for new plantings. Be ruthless with non performing plants, choose something better suited to the position, availability of water, or your climate, we are always happy to offer suggestions or discuss this with you. If you are interested in more autumn colour now is the time to look around your neighbourhood for the colours which appeal to you. Get your orders in early to avoid disappointment. The 2008 Bare rooted and tubestock catalogues are available for down load HERE. In the ornamental garden divide daffodils and jonquils which have been in the same spot for some time and they will flower well in Spring. Plant bulbs no less than three times as deep as the bulb is wide. Fuchsias which are looking weary and a bit woody after Summer should be pruned now. A light trim will ensure a display of flowers in May. Sweet peas can be sown from March onwards, add 1-2 cups of lime per sqm to acid soils, plus compost and manure. Apply a liquid fertilizer fortnightly. Plant Ageratum, alyssum, aquilegia, cineraria, cornflower, foxglove, delphinium, hollyhock, lobelia, pansy, polyanthus, poppy, primula, stock and wallflower. Roses benefit now from a cupful of a complete fertilizer, take time to read the N:P:K ratio on the packet and choose the one which is higher in potash (K) content. Top up with mulch or manure, water deeply and enjoy the autumn roses. If you have roses which are particularly susceptible to fungal disease give each bush a dessertspoon of sulphate of potash in autumn, this thickens the cell walls of the plant, promotes stronger stems and increases resistance to disease. Now is the time to prune the winter flowering roses “Lorraine Lee” and “Nancy Haywood”. Deadhead any roses which have finished their second flush and many will continue to flower into June. A short video showing how to dead head roses is available HERE We have had some queries about climbing roses which flower only on the top of the canes. These roses bloom to their greatest potential when their canes are horizontal and a fence, or similar support, is necessary so they can be tied in a fan shape. All the lateral growths which come off the main canes are the bloom bearing laterals and should be retained, simply trim them back to the third or fourth bud when pruning in winter. More detail to come on roses in the May newsletter. Hibiscus are looking wonderful at the moment, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis “Double Johnsonii” is a medium sized evergreen shrub with glossy dark green leaves, flowers are double, apricot coloured with a red centre. Hibiscus rosa sinensis “Isobel Beard” has striking pinky lavender blooms with a red centre, they give a wonderful tropical air to the garden. Lavenders and daisies can be given a light prune now to promote new growth and flowers. Pelargoniums and geraniums should be cut back now; this allows them to make good growth before the cold weather arrives. Sedum “Autumn Joy” is a blaze of colour in gardens at the moment as the pinkish-red flowers gradually become a darker red. If you have a lack of colour in your garden at this time of the year consider the crepe myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica, they are looking beautiful in many gardens at the moment and come in a range of attractive shades as well as white. Agapanthus should have spent flower heads removed now to prevent them setting seed and becoming environmental weeds. For those who would like a more sustainable substitute there are many tufting plants and native grasses which add year round interest to the garden. Patersonia or the native iris is a pretty little clumper with an attractive three petalled purple flower; they do prefer some summer watering. Flax-lilies (Dianella spp.) are tough plants which form attractive clumps and have beautiful blue flowers in spring, followed by purple berries. A close relative of the grass tree (Xanthorrhoea sp.) the Mat- rushes are happy in a dry or wet situation, they vary in size from less than 10cm to a metre in height, are ideal for steep banks, mass plantings, pots or borders. If you are looking for and unusual feature tree the Dawn Redwood “Metasequoia glyptostroboides” is a fast growing, tall, pyramidal tree with soft pale green foliage that turns a spectacular russet brown in autumn. It prefers a moist well drained soil rich in organic matter. Mulch well to conserve moisture. Top In the home orchard be scrupulous about the removal of spoiled and fallen fruit. Codling moth (Cydia pomonella) is a serious pest which affects apples, quinces and pears. It occurs throughout southern Australia and is very difficult to control. The larva is cream coloured and has a brown head. The female moth lives for two weeks and lays small white eggs on the leaves of the tree. Eggs take between five days to two weeks to hatch and enter the apple at the blossom end. When fully grown the caterpillars tunnel out of the fruit and spin cocoons in crevices in the bark or around the base of the tree. The life cycle is complete in about sixty days so it is possible to have several generations within the same year. Fruit which falls should be destroyed by burning, if this is not possible, place the fruit in sealed plastic bags and dispose of in garbage. Heat and fermentation should kill the larvae. Inspect the bark and any crevices on the tree and dispose of any grubs you find. Wrap strips of Hessian or corrugated cardboard around the trunks of trees to catch larvae as they make their way down the tree trunk in spring and summer. Grease bands applied to the trunks of apples pears and quince helps to trap the females which crawl up the trunk to lay eggs. Inspect and destroy the wingless moths. Fowls which are allowed to free range in the home orchard will control many of the caterpillars and prevent damage. Ensure that mulches do not touch the base of your trees and shrubs as this can be an entry point for disease. Keep strawberries moist and renew mulch, next year’s flower buds are forming now. Feed lemon trees with a citrus fertilizer, water well before and after fertilizing. Get in early when ordering new season stock, new or popular varieties are often in great demand. Download Catalogue In the home vegetable patch plant tree onions, shallots and garlic. Divide and replant clumps of chives and garlic chives. Keep a close watch on brassicas for caterpillars; check the undersides of leaves particularly if you have white butterflies in the garden. Water plants with liquid fertilizer every two weeks to keep them growing strongly. Plant beetroot, broad beans, endive, silver beet, brown and white onions, spinach, turnips, lettuce, cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage. It is not too late to plant another sowing of carrots and peas, keep them growing strongly before the weather becomes cold. Bare patches of ground in the vegetable patch can be sown with green manure to be dug in early in the spring. Top In the native garden trim kangaroo paws which have finished flowering to encourage new growth and stronger flowers. Cut everything off at ground level leaving only about 5cm of foliage, apply some slow release fertilizer for native plants, water deeply and they will reward you with a beautiful display in spring. Bracteantha bracteata is a golden flowered everlasting daisy which enjoys a free draining soil in sun or part shade, trim the spent flower heads to encourage further flowers and this native daisy will produce year round colour in frost free conditions. Leptospermum “Little Bun” is a small dense mounding shrub to 45cm high and 1m wide with soft lemon scented foliage. A profusion of lime-cream flowers covers the foliage in late spring and summer. It is excellent for insect foraging birds such as scrub wrens. Grows easily on most sites. Leptospermum “Kiwi” is another hardy, low growing shrub to 50cm high and 1m wide. Reddish-pink flowers are borne in spring against burgundy-purple foliage which ages to dark green, it tolerates most soil conditions and makes an ideal low hedge. Correa “Win’s Wonder” is a small to medium shrub with attractive green and gold foliage. A form of Correa “mannii” it has deep pinky red flowers in winter and early spring. Growth is to 1.5m high and1.2m wide and it tolerates extended dry conditions. Soft grey foliage with a silvery variegation is a feature of Westringia “Smokie” which flowers for most of the year. An excellent screen or hedge plant,it can also be used for topiary and looks terrific in Mediterranean style gardens with lavenders and rosemary. For spectacular flowers it is difficult to surpass Grevillea “Robyn Gordon”, a small to medium shrub to 2m tall and 3m wide with bright green new leaves. Leaves are divided, about 20cm long and fernlike and it flowers for most of the year. Enjoy the milder temperatures which are coming our way, get out in the garden and enjoy the colours of autumn, the crisp mornings and a new gardening year. Happy gardening Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery. TOP

The Soil in your Garden.

As summer fades and we enter into autumn and winter planting it is probably an excellent time to consider the soil in your garden and its role in the success or failure of your plants.
It is essential to the success of your garden that you understand your soil.
As gardeners we like to grow a wide range of plants, many more than those plants which occur naturally in the patch of earth in which we garden.
If our plants are to thrive we need to understand their needs and provide them with the correct environment in which to grow.

If we look at a cross section of soil, it consists of two layers – top soil which comprises the nutrients and organic matter and the subsoil, which is devoid of both these elements.
Topsoil varies in depth from centimetres to a metre or more. The subsoil is hard, difficult to dig and often paler in colour.
All soils are made up of the same basic ingredients, sand, clay, silt and loam.
The proportions in which these occur in your soil determine the type of soil you have.

Sandy soil is granular and has a gritty texture. The particles are large and of an irregular shape and it falls apart when balled up in your hand.
It is easy to dig, free draining and quick to warm up in the spring.
Because of its free draining nature it does not hold water for very long and is therefore prone to drought.
Nutrients leach very quickly from sandy soils which can leave them impoverished.

Clay soils have very tiny particles which pack together tightly excluding air and making the soil sticky and difficult to work, they can be rolled in the hand to form a ball.
Drainage is poor and clay soils are often waterlogged, making them slow to warm up in spring, in summer they bake hard, crack badly and form large lumps.

Silty soil is usually fertile, falls between clay and sand particle size and compacts easily. It is a free draining soil type.

Loam contains clay, sand and silt particles blended in combination with humus, in a balance which supplies plants with the air and fertile soil best suited to their needs. Moisture retentive and well drained, loamy soils warm up quickly in spring and are easy to work.

Once you have established your soil type you can begin to take steps to improve the condition of the soil.
Gypsum (calcium sulphate) can be used to break up clay by a process called flocculation, tiny particles form into larger particles which cause lumps to crumble and improve the friability of the soil.
This effect sometimes lasts for only 1-2 years.
The most effective long term solution to the problem of clay soils is to incorporate as much organic matter as possible into the soil
The addition of bulky organic matter will help clay soils open up, drain more efficiently and improve the uptake of nutrients.
Similarly the retention of both water and nutrients is improved on sandy and silty soils by adding humus.

Well rotted stable manure, sheep manure, cow manure and compost contain plant food and add valuable humus to the soil.
Mulch such as pea straw, which is constantly replenished as it decays, will also improve the friability of your soil
Leaf mould is a good soil conditioner although low in food value.
Growing a green manure crop is an excellent way to introduce a substantial amount of organic matter into the soil.
Healthy soil contains millions of microscopic bacteria, fungi and earthworms that are constantly breaking down humus and providing the food that plants need. The other vital ingredients are water, which dissolves these nutrients, and air, without which soil organisms would die.

Soil pH

As both very acid and very alkaline soils lock away nutrients, it is important to
establish the pH of your soil as this can have a direct impact on how successfully
your plants grow.
pH is the measurement of its acidity or alkalinity and is determined by the amount of
lime it contains. This has an effect on the uptake of nutrients and also on the species
of plants which can be grown successfully.
Soil acidity is measured on a scale which ranges from 1 which is extremely acid, to
14 which is extremely alkaline.
Each unit change in the pH scale is a tenfold difference in acidity or alkalinity.
As an example a soil with a Ph of 8 is ten times more alkaline than soil with a pH of
7
A pH of 7 is neutral and somewhere close to this level is best for growing vegetables.
Most ornamental plants grow best where the pH is somewhere between 5.5 and 7.5.
Lime hating plants such as rhododendrons and azaleas prefer a lower pH while lime
lovers such as bearded iris and brassicas grow best in soil with a pH above 7.0
Measuring the acidity or alkalinity of your soil involves taking several samples from
around your garden and testing with a small inexpensive soil testing kit which is
readily available.
Plants and weeds that do well in your garden can be an indicator of soil pH.
Rhododendrons, azaleas, sorrel and plantain thrive in acid
soil. The presence of sorrel is often a good indicator that soil is acid.
Lime lovers like bearded iris, poppies, clematis and brassicas thrive in alkaline soil.

Changing Soil pH
It is quite a simple matter to make soil more alkaline, ie raise its pH by adding lime,
(calcium hydroxide) dolomite, (dolomitic limestone) or wood ashes.
To increase soil acidity is less straightforward, the addition of animal manures, leaf
mould, sawdust and peatmoss will all help to acidify the soil.
The addition of powdered sulphur at the rate of 1.2oz sulphur per square metre should reduce acidity by 1.0 point.
Iron deficiency (Iron chlorosis) is the result of high pH soils reducing the availability
of iron to plants. Leaves which become pale green or turn yellow and have leaf veins which remain green indicate iron deficiency. The use of iron chelates will alleviate this problem.

Plant nutrients.
Plants require a whole range of mineral nutrients to sustain healthy growth.
Most soils contain a reasonable range of them, however it is possible for soils to be deficient in some nutrients, which affects growth and performance.
This often becomes apparent once plants are established and failure to thrive or unhealthy foliage indicates that all is not well.
It is helpful to know something about the most significant of these in order to identify possible deficiencies in your soil
Most of the major element deficiencies show on the old or lower leaves of the plant.
Minor element deficiencies usually appear on the newer leaves towards the tips.

Essential Plant Nutrients
Calcium (Ca)
Magnesium (Mg)
Nitrogen (N)
Phosphorus (P)
Potassium (Potash) (K)
Sulphur (S)

Trace Elements
Boron (B)
Chlorine (Cl)
Copper (Cu)
Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn)
Molybdenum (Mo)
Zinc (Zn)

Nitrogen
Essential for the formation of protein and chlorophyll and responsible for vigour and
size of leaves and stems.
Imparts dark green colour to plants.
The soil in its natural state has very little nitrogen available to plants, most of the
nitrogen is present in the organic matter in the soil, so the total amount of nitrogen in
in the soil is dependant on the organic matter.
Nitrogen deficiency causes stunting, harder stems and mature leaves which become
Chlorotic (yellowish) progressing from light green to yellow.

Sources of Nitrogen
Fresh Manure… rich in uric acid… a potent form of nitrogen which can easily burn plant tissue.
Aged manure…well rotted 2-3 years old.
Nitrogen content is variable and dependant on age and method of storage.
All these forms of nitrogen must be broken down by nitrifying bacteria before the plant is able to use them.
Nitrifying bacteria are most active in moist aerated soils, wet and water logged soils do not contain sufficient oxygen to supply the needs of the bacteria.
Legumes…(peas, beans, clover etc) with the help of soil bacteria are able to fix nitrogen on nodules on their roots.
Soils in which these crops have recently grown are particularly rich in nitrogen.
Blood and bone
Dynamic Lifter and similar compound fertilisers, (check the formula on the packet)
are a good source.
Sulphate of Ammonia (ammonium sulphate)… use carefully as it can burn soft tissue.
Nitrogen given in conjunction with added potash gives a balance which is necessary for growth. Compound fertilisers, (check the formula on the packet) are a good source.

Phosphorus

Important for strong root growth ( essential for root vegetables) energy storage and
seed production and is involved in the transfer of hereditary traits.
Vigorous seedlings, promotes rapid development of roots in young plants… any
seedbed should have an ample supply of phosphates.
Symptoms of deficiency include stunted growth, low drought tolerance, weak root systems, poor seedling growth and lack of response to other fertilisers.
Sources of Phosphorus
Bone or fishmeal
Superphosphate.
Organic matter in the soil is an important source of phosphorus and aeration and moisture are important for microbiological breakdown of organic matter, an important source of phosphorus.

Potassium (potash)

Necessary for the well balanced growth of leaves and stems, water uptake and photosynthesis.
Production of flowers and fruit…plants which fail to flower properly can often be induced to do so by the addition of potash.
Potash deficiency is characterized by scorched leaf margins and sometimes a reddish tint to leaves, poor flowering, fruiting and berrying, winter damage and frost damage.
Highly soluble, so well drained sandy soils are often deficient, however moisture is needed in order for potassium to move to the roots for uptake
Uptake of potassium is affected more than most other nutrients by poor aeration.
Sources of Potash
Wood ash in generous amounts
Seaweed based fertilisers
Compound fertilisers, e.g. tomato plant food.

Magnesium

This element is an essential part of the chlorophyll molecule and aids in the
absorption of other nutrients, it is also important for seed production.
Magnesium deficiency shows in the older leaves which become red-brown,
green at the tips and lower central vein areas and there is often early leaf fall.
The most common source of magnesium is dolomitic limestone which neutralizes soil
acidity while providing calcium and magnesium.
Magnesium Sulphate can be applied to the soil or used as a foliar spray.

Calcium

Stimulates root and shoot development, influences yield by reducing soil acidity,
maintains the integrity of cell membranes and is necessary for nitrogen fixation by
legumes.
Deficiencies of calcium are associated with soil acidification, poor root growth and growing tips.
As most calcium deficient soils are acidic, liming is an efficient method of adding calcium. Both garden lime and and dolomite are reliable sources .

Sulphur

Essential for nitrogen fixation by legumes, necessary for chlorophyll formation and as a constituent of the organic compounds that give odours to onions, garlic and mustard.
Deficiency shows up as pale green young leaves, thin stems and spindly growth. Sources of sulphur are animal manures and organic matter in the soil.

Meredith Nursery Newsletter - Jan / Feb 2008

Vol 2 No 1

Welcome to the Jan / Feb newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

January/February

In the January garden we are enjoying the recent rain, fruit trees are laden with fruit, roses are blooming and we look forward to another gardening year with a renewed sense of optimism.
Mulching is one of the most important tasks at this time of the year to conserve valuable moisture and to add water holding humus to your soil.

In the vegetable patch continue to harvest vegetables to keep them producing as long as possible.
More recent plantings should be kept growing strongly with fortnightly applications of liquid manure.

Plant seed of beetroot, carrot, parsnip, lettuce, kohl rabi silver beet, swede and turnip.
Plant seedlings of broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower and leek.
There is still time to plant more climbing and bush beans, they will grow quickly in the higher temperatures and if you apply a thick layer of mulch and you will be eating beans in a very short time.

In the ornamental garden separate overcrowded clumps of bearded iris and replant the strongest rhizomes in soil which has a dusting of lime added
Firm the roots into the soil and be sure to leave the rhizome exposed to bake in the sun, they will reward you with a beautiful display in spring.
Continue to deadhead roses; water, feed and mulch and you will have a great autumn display.
For a tropical feel in the garden we have some beautiful hibiscus at the moment Hawaiian Skies which is a lovely scarlet, White Kalakua and several others in shades of pink and red.
Dig soil and add some bulb food or blood and bone in preparation for bulb planting in February and March.
Scatter`seed of spent annuals such as foxgloves, poppies and larkspurs around the garden before removing and composting the spent stalks.
Plant primulas, pansies,Iceland poppies, polyanthus, cinerarias and candytuft for a winter display, keep them growing strongly with fortnightly applications of liquid fertiliser.
Time now to fertilise Magnolias, camellias, daphne, azaleas and rhododendrons
Water well before and after fertilising.

Now is the time to take a walk around your garden and identify any shrubs or trees which are unsatisfactory, or areas which may be in need of renovation.
This will allow time to redesign some areas, remove plants which have not performed well and prepare soil for fresh plantings.

If you are looking for a creeper to cover a fence Pandorea Jasminoides Variagated Bower of Beauty is an avergreen climber with pale pink trumpet flowers in sprays during summer and autumn. Ideal for most soils and conditions.
Another striking member of this family is Pandorea “Ruby Belle” which has glossy green foliage and masses of ruby-red flowers with a cream throat in late winter and early spring.
Good where fast cover for privacy is needed, it enjoys a sunny position and tolerates pruning.

In the native garden we have lots of lovely Grevilleas, Pink Midget, to 30cm high and 60cm wide has small attractive pink flowers for most of the year, good in containers rockeries and as a foreground plant.
Grevillea Grassfire adds red tones to the garden where a groundcover is needed, it has dense foliage which suppresses weeds, grows about 10cm tall and attains a diameter of around 2m in 12-18 months. Toothbrush flowers are borne in spring and autumn.
Another good carpeting plant is Grevillea Fanfare which spreads 2-3 m has red tipped foliage and long toothbrush flowers from spring to autumn.
Grevillea “Orange Box” is a versatile plant dense and compact with glossy dark foliage and masses of bright orange flowers for most of the year.
A good container plant, it may also be grown as a low hedge or allowed to grow taller as a clipped screen.
Grevillea Endlicheriana is a medium to tall rounded shrub with soft bluish- green linear foliage, it has whitish-pink flowers in winter and periodically throughout the year.
A highly ornamental small tree with smooth brown bark, Eucalyptus Forrestiana, the Fuchsia Gum has a profusion of pendulous yellow flowers in summer opening from bright orange buds, followed by decorative pear shaped seed capsules.
Prefers a sunny open position and is drought tolerant once established.

For a great garden feature we have a lovely selection of pots, urns, water bowls and birdbaths, in both traditional and modern design. They will add another dimension to the native, cottage or formal garden.

In the home orchard it is time to fertilise citrus, water well before and after applying citrus fertiliser.
Use a pelletised fertiliser for potted citrus to avoid burning delicate roots.
Prepare soil for bare root plantings of fruit trees.
Some preparation now will improve the soil texture and give your trees a great start in spring.

If you are planning on planting fruit trees, a new garden, a rose garden or deciduous plantings, bare root season is only 18-20 weeks away.
We are happy to take orders and discuss your needs with you.
If you would like to receive bare rooted catalogues please click here and leave us a message

Well that’s it for Jan-Feb, we hope everyone had a great Christmas and we look forward to another year in the garden.
Happy Gardening,
Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery.

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December has arrived and as our thoughts turn toward Christmas and summer holidays we need to attend to some important tasks in the garden before we can relax and enjoy the holiday season. The Vegie PatchIn the vegetable garden there is still time to plant tomatoes, eggplant and capsicum seedlings, plant in the cool of the evening and keep well watered and they will thrive in the warmth.Plant some basil seedlings as companions to your tomatoes both in the garden and on your plate.Climbing and bush beans planted now will reward you with massive crops.Continue to plant or sow lettuce, beetroot and radish in order to maintain a steady supply for the salad bowl.A fortnightly application of liquid fertiliser will keep them growing strongly and prevent them bolting to seed in the higher temperatures.Cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini and sweetcorn can still be planted and will astound you with their rate of growth now that soil temperatures are so high.The ornamental gardenIn the ornamental garden plant cosmos, dahlia, petunia, celosia, cleome, impatiens, nasturtium, phlox, portulaca, salvia, ageratum and aster.If you haven’t already done so it’s time to divide rhizomatous iris such as bearded iris.Dividing now reduces the risk of rot or infection from wet soil for these sun loving plants. Take care not to cover the rhizome with soil, just tuck the roots into the soil.Roses have now finished their spring flush, deadhead to ensure continuous flowering, prune back old canes on once flowering roses, to ensure fresh growth for next years flowers.Remember to prune or clip lightly this month to avoid exposing soft growth to the harsh summer sun, your plants can suffer sunburn too!Remove spent spring annuals which are past their best, leave some like poppies, larkspur and foxgloves to self seed for next year.

Daffodils have died back sufficiently for untidy growth to be removed, they can be left in the ground or dug and stored in a dry airy place until February.

Trim back lavenders which have finished flowering to keep them bushy and promote more flowers.

Oriental and Asiatic lilies are delighting us with their superb flower heads at the moment and Christmas lilies are about to burst into bloom in time for Christmas floral displays.

While spring is the optimum time for planting trees and shrubs it is still possible to plant provided a few precautions are taken.

Plant in the late afternoon or on an overcast day, water well and do not allow the plant to dry out at any stage.

Use a seaweed fertiliser to minimize transplant shock and encourage root growth.

If the weather becomes hot and windy cover with shade cloth during the day.

The Orchard

In the fruit garden liquid feed strawberries, raspberry plants and red and blackcurrant bushes.

Gooseberry bushes can be thinned and the unripe fruit used for cooking, the fruit will not all ripen at once, so you may need to pick the berries several times.

Black and redcurrants will also ripen over several weeks. The simplest method of preserving bush fruits is to freeze them.

Harvest raspberries and other cane fruits carefully as they become squashed and bruise very easily.

Keep strawberry beds free of weeds and check ripening strawberries every day, pick when fruits are red all over.
Cherry and pear slugs will appear this month on pear, cherry, plum and almonds.

Use a pyrethrum spray when the first damage appears.

Cherries will have been harvested in most places by the middle of December and cherry plums are ripening, be ready to net trees as fruits ripen to lessen fruit loss from birds and possums.

Cherries and plums need little pruning apart from the removal of dead or congested growth.

Sour cherries are produced on one year old wood and should be pruned immediately after the fruit is harvested.

Plum and sweet cherry trees produce most of their fruit at the base of one year old and older shoots.

Watch apples for telltale signs of penetration frass indicating the presence of codling moth. Pull off all damaged fruit and destroy.

Pick fruit as soon as it is ripe. Plums can be picked slightly under ripe and stored in the salad compartment of your refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

Nectarines, sweet cherries and peaches do not mature after picking so do not harvest until they have ripened on the tree.

Enjoy!

Waterwise Gardening.

Early summer is the time to set up the garden for the hotter days which are ahead of us.

Lawns should not be cut too short. Cut only the top third of leaf area and save lawn clippings for use as mulch on your garden.

Choose your lawn carefully and go for slow growing, water saving, drought tolerant varieties.

Gardening with the Australian climate in mind is a quite recent phenomenon in this country, the introduction of a user pays system of water usage and the effect of the recent drought on our water storage systems has given us cause to reflect on the way we garden and our use of a scarce resource.

Remember that one dripping tap can waste up to 2000 litres of water a month so check outdoor taps and pipes for leaks.

While we have all been heartened by recent rains and the easing of water restrictions valuable lessons have been learned along the way.

Many Australian plants are excellent and require no artificial watering once established, however as there are many climatic zones within our country ranging from tropical rainforests to snowfields, it follows that we cannot plant any native plant, anywhere, and expect it to survive.

We need to choose plants from our own or a similar climatic zone.

Many of the exotics in our gardens surprised us by toughing out the drought and surviving well, not so surprising perhaps, when we realise that many of them come from climates around the world similar to our own.

With careful planning, a little research, and some preparation, we can create colourful and imaginative gardens which have low water needs.

It is always useful to talk to other gardeners and to observe what grows well in your area.
A water efficient garden does not mean that we cannot enjoy a water feature such as a fountain or pond, a recirculating pump will use very little water and we can enjoy the sight and sound of water on the hottest day.

Grow a waterlily in a large pot if you have limited space and pop in a goldfish or two for added pleasure and to deal with mosquito larvae.

We have a range of attractive and beautiful water plants for a lovely cooling effect on a hot day.

If water restrictions in your area permit, consider installing a drip irrigation system, there is very little wastage and water goes exactly where needed.

Remove weeds as they appear as they will rob your plants of nutrients and moisture.

Use mulch and add compost to your soil, this will add valuable nutrients and humus which will feed your plants and help to retain moisture.

A good layer of mulch will make an enormous difference to the amount of water you use in your garden; it is possible to reduce evaporation from soil by 70 per cent with a thick layer of mulch.

Mulch protects the roots of plants and lower temperatures under the mulch allow tender roots to continue to grow in the topsoil.

Organic mulches allow rain or irrigation to filter through into the soil below trapping the moisture and reducing the rate of evaporation.

Placing drippers under mulch is the most efficient way to irrigate to reduce evaporation.

Plants feed off the nutrients in the mulch as it decomposes, however if the materials in the mulch are of a woody nature it is wise to add a small amount of nitrogenous fertiliser like blood and bone to offset nitrogen loss from the decomposition of these particles.

Organic mulches are very beneficial for the health of your plants however non-organic mulches such as crushed rock and pebbles, are useful in areas where a decorative effect is required, unfortunately they can trap leaves and twigs and become untidy.

Keep mulch away from the stems of plants to avoid fungal diseases and rotting. The exceptions here are sweetcorn and tomatoes which enjoy mulch close around the stems.

Water roots and soil around the plants, watering leaves and flowers wastes water and increases the risk of fungal diseases.

Relax in your garden and water by hand with a trigger nozzle, you can ensure your plants get just the right amount of water and check what is happening in your garden at the same time.

Watering your garden in the cool of early morning, or in the evening cuts down evaporation and water loss.

Water less often, one of the lessons learned from the drought is that many of our plants can get by on much less water than we have been accustomed to giving them.

Create micro climates within your garden; group plants with similar water needs together, different plants need different amounts of water, if you mix them up you are likely to use more water than you need to.

Group your pots together, this creates a moister atmosphere and pots do not dry out so quickly.

Try to avoid windy spots in the garden, this dries your pots out very quickly.

Use a good quality potting mix and a layer of mulch to conserve moisture.

Use water storing crystals and soil wetter, these are different and are used in different ways.

Water crystals absorb and hold moisture and in doing so they change from dry granules to a jelly like substance which needs to be placed in the root area of the plant when planting, or in vertical holes in the region of the roots.

Do not sprinkle them on the soil surface as they will draw moisture out of the ground and that is something you don’t want!

Soil wetting agents are applied to the top of the soil, this ensures that water travels efficiently through the soil to plant roots and minimizes wasteful run off.

For Gardeners At Christmas

With the festive season just around the corner remember the gardener(s) in your life.

We have a selection of beautiful pots, potted roses and oriental and Asiatic lilies and of course it is not Christmas without a poinsettia!

For the native enthusiast we have many beautiful plants to choose from and for that special person a very special plant, A standard grevillea…… beautiful and unusual.

A citrus tree is always welcome and will give fruit and pleasure for many years.

For the really keen gardener, gloves, hanging baskets, water crystals, soil wetter and fertiliser, will always be welcome and a change from socks, ties and soaps.

We are at the end of another year and how quickly it has flown by; we would like to thank everyone for giving the nursery such tremendous support throughout the year.

We look forward to another year in the garden as summer wanes and autumn approaches.

In the meantime, a very Happy Christmas and New Year to everybody,

Enjoy the holidays,

Happy Gardening,

Marg and the team at Meredith Nursery.

Vol1 No8

Welcome to the November newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

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November is a wonderful month, the garden is full of colour and fragrance, roses are blooming and all the planning and planting done in winter and early spring can be enjoyed.
Now is a good time to visit open gardens, we can be inspired by a different approach to colour and garden design, observe plants growing and flowering in different situations, or simply just enjoy another garden. It is also helpful in planning, as the garden moves on, and even in the midst of a blaze of spring growth and colour we must plan ahead for next season.
Cast a critical eye over the parts of your garden which have not performed as well as you might like and be prepared to make changes.
Gardens by their very nature are constantly changing and evolving as plants grow and mature or simply fail to thrive.
Most gardeners have been heartened by an easing of water restrictions; however we must still continue to use water as efficiently and sparingly as possible.
Mulching is probably the most important task this month and organic mulches such as pea straw, sugarcane, compost and grass clippings will conserve water and improve your soil as they decay.
Pull out weeds as soon as you see them, they compete with your plants for food and moisture and if you can prevent them from seeding you will have less weeding.
Organize watering systems for the hotter days ahead in line with watering restrictions in your area.
Soil temperatures are warmer now and with daylight hours lengthening this is the best time of the year to plant and sow and reap the rewards.The Vegie patch
In the vegetable patch keep plants growing strongly with fortnightly applications of liquid manure and seaweed solution, sow seeds or plant seedlings of sweet corn, tomatoes, zucchini, carrot, pumpkin, beans, eggplant, cucumber, beetroot and capsicum and red hot chillies if you like some heat in your food.
Mulch tomato plants well to ensure an even supply of moisture and prevent the incidence of blossom end rot.
We have managed to procure some good supports for taller tomatoes. They are simple to slot together can be used in the garden bed or pot and can be packed away after use for next year.
Climbing and bush beans planted now will reward you with massive crops, be sure to mulch these well too.
Lettuce and other leafy greens must be grown quickly, so need to be watered and fed consistently, give them a shady spot in midsummer and choose varieties which can be picked a few leaves at a time.
Spring onions are easily grown from seed, give them a handful of dolomite limestone raked into the soil, sprinkle the seeds over this, cover with a thin layer of soil and water well.
Celery is another plant which likes a fertile soil which has been limed, acidic soil is death to celery and it is impossible to over water this plant.
Cabbages are useful salad vegetables and are easily raised from seed. Small, tasty heads should be ready in about 10 weeks. For a faster result try Asian cabbages such as Wong Bok.
For the little gardeners in the family radishes will be up in a few days and ready to eat in a few weeks. Water well and feed weekly.
For those who have limited space, try some of these salad vegetables in pots in a sunny courtyard or outside the kitchen door for easy access.
Ensure compost remains moist as the weather warms up, the micro-organisms which break down the compost need moisture to stay alive.The herb garden
In the herb garden Geranium Citrosa has a superb lemon rose fragrance when brushed or watered. Suitable for desserts and herb teas it thrives in dry exposed sunny positions and grows 70cm high and 1m wide.
Golden oregano is and attractive herb with golden foliage and dainty pink flowers in summer and don’t let us forget those hardy old favourites sage, thyme, rosemary and chives.
The globe artichoke is a great addition to the garden for those who enjoy its unique flavour, for those who don’t it is still a striking architectural plant for the potager or formal garden.The ornamental garden
In the ornamental garden feed hydrangeas and fuchsias with complete fertiliser.
Prune spring flowering shrubs such as viburnums, lilacs and spireas after they finish flowering to encourage compact growth and blooms next spring. Fertilise them with blood and bone.
A viburnum which is most attractive is V. Plicatum Lanarth “Pink Beauty” deciduous, with good autumn colour; it has flower heads which resemble a lacecap hydrangea.
Prune once flowering roses immediately after flowering is finished as they need an entire season to produce flowering wood for next spring.
Deadhead roses to keep them flowering (Watch our video) and watch for aphid attack.
Container grown roses can still be planted, they make great gifts for keen gardeners and for busy people, we will gift wrap them for you.
The David Austin rose ‘The Endeavour” is a medium sized shrub with a beautiful pink flower, typical of the gorgeous roses we have come to expect from David Austin.
For rich colours Burgundy Iceberg and High Society are striking while the aptly named Marilyn Monroe is golden with a pinkish glow. Simply Magic is pink and pretty, a dainty floribunda bush rose.Lightly prune daisies and lavenders which have finished flowering to encourage another flush of flowers and keep bushes compact.
Pick off seed heads on poppies, larkspur, cornflower and other spring annuals to keep them flowering longer.
November is a great time to plant gladiolus corms for late summer colour.
Plant about 10cm deep in fertile soil in a sunny well drained position.
Plant seeds and seedling of viola, verbena carnation, zinnia, statice, gerbera, lavender, dianthus, scabiosa, sunflower, strawflowers, petunias, salvia and snapdragons.

Bloom Master Hanging Baskets
We have obtained the new range of hanging baskets from Bloom Master Australia.
Made of high quality poly-propylene and UV treated and the unique design means that potting mix will not wash out of the holes when watered.
Simply plant the side openings and the top with the plants of your choice.
The result is a huge ball of flowers to hang from verandah or patio. Plant a selection of colours or try red and white petunias for an outdoor Christmas.
Try planting cascade petunias, ivy geraniums, trailing lobelia, nemesia, impatiens, nerembergia and many more.
A variety of mixed vegetables and/or herbs, or strawberries and tomatoes make a great patio garden.
Another great gift idea.

Mediterranean gardens
Mediterranean gardens have become increasingly popular as the need for more drought tolerant gardens has become apparent.
The English plantswoman Beth Chatto has been at the forefront of this of this style of gardening and her gardens at Colchester, Essex, are in an area which has one of the lowest rainfalls in Britain.
Although plants in her garden survive on natural rainfall, the combination of plants such as cistus, diascia, poppy and vervain give a feeling of lightness and delicacy despite their toughness.
The sedums are tough, attractive autumn flowering plants suitable for many different garden situations.
Sedum spectabile has decorative heads of pink flowers, tolerates full sun dry periods and frost, S. Ruby Glow enjoys the same conditions and has rosy red flowers from summer to autumn.
Sedum selskianum has bright yellow flowers over summer and bright green foliage.
Sedum “Stardust” has large creamy / white flower heads in autumn and summer.
All of these sedums look great with other garden plants and make great pot specimens for courtyards and barbeque areas
The tough and colourful Osteospermans have daisy like flowers, grow to 50-60cm and have flowers in a variety of attractive colours.
For something really different try the Cape Daisy Osteospermum ecklonii Aksullo Nasinga Purple, with quaint spoon shaped petals above lush green foliage.
Easy to care for these hardy plants require clipping back hard after flowering to encourage a bushy habit and plentiful flowers.
Agapanthus are tough drought tolerant plants with glossy foliage and tall flower heads in shades of blue or white in summer.
Dwarf varieties make excellent border plants and mingle well in the cottage garden. Remember to prune off flower stems as the flowers fade, to prevent them from setting seed.
The variety “Black Pantha” is sterile and does not set seed.
Cytisus X Dallimorei “Volcano is a small compact growing broom from the U.K. Volcano flowers for many weeks during spring and summer with a display of ruby red and yellow flowers.
Cut back after flowering to keep compact and bushy.
The Proteas and Leucospermums are spectacular plants which have low water needs.
They enjoy well drained soil in a sunny position and need to be given some summer watering until established.
Low phosphorus fertilisers are the safest to use with these relatives of our own native plants.
Leucospermum patersonii “Tiara” is a medium sized shrub which has yellow to orange flowers in profusion in spring.
L. “Moonlight” has vibrant golden flowers in spring and has excellent cut flower properties.
L. thymifolium has small yellow flowers in spring followed by purple-crimson cones
Protea “White Crown” has creamy white flowers, again a good cut flower with a delicate appearance often used in bridal bouquets.
Protea Candy, a hybrid of Protea longifolia is a hardy evergreen shrub with narrow leaves and large pink flowers from autumn through to spring.
For a softer appearance, Protea White Pearl (Protea nerifolia) grows 2.5 m high and 2m wide, the large white flowers are borne in winter.

For a touch of grey in the garden Cheiranthus “Winter Joy” is a great old standby.
Flowering constantly through the duller months of the year, it has attractive mauve flowers against grey green foliage.
Cut back hard after flowering to prevent the plant from becoming woody.
As a foil for old roses, lavenders and other flowering plants, the beautiful Pyrethrum “Silver Lace” is delicate in appearance but hardy and easily grown.
Growing to 90cm high, it likes full sun and looks stunning in a deep pink or black container.
The huge popularity enjoyed by the lavender family is well deserved, lavenders belong to the Lamiaceae (Labiatae) family a group of plants that include the sages (Salvia) and the mints (Mentha), they are shrubby aromatic perennial plants which can be planted as hedges or borders, or massed amongst roses and perennials, where their soft colours and spicy fragrance are a perfect backdrop for other plants.

Lavenders are easily grown; plenty of sunlight and a well drained soil are the most important prerequisites when choosing a site.
They are adaptable to most soil types except heavy poorly drained clay.
Prune after flowering to keep the plant shapely and encourage flowering.
Plants which are not well pruned will become woody and unattractive and will need to be replaced.
It is time to divide rhizomatous iris which should be divided every 3-5 years, or if clumps have become overcrowded and flowering spikes are diminishing.
Lift clump using a garden fork, shake the soil from the roots and cut the leaves `into a fan shape. Divide and replant making sure the roots are planted but leave the top of the rhizome exposed. Water in well.
Echium is another hardy plant for the dry garden. The spectacular blue flower spikes are borne on the plant in Spring.
The waterwise garden does not need to be dull or unattractive, many of our best loved plants were chosen by the early gardeners in our country for their toughness under adverse conditions, then as now, water was sometimes a scarce commodity, yet the remnants of many early colonial gardens still remain.

The native garden
In the native garden Callistemons are putting on a wonderful display this year and most are a blaze of scarlet at the moment.
Prune these immediately after they finish flowering to keep them from becoming leggy and unattractive.
A stunning new plant is Agonis flexuosa “Burgundy”, its graceful weeping habit and strong burgundy new growth will enhance and add interest to any style of garden.
To 5m high and 3m wide it is frost hardy, suitable for coastal planting and enjoys a sunny position in well drained soil.
During mid spring small white tea-tree like flowers bloom on the ends of its branches.
Isopogon formosus “Rose Cone Flower” is an upright evergreen shrub with large pink flowers in spring.
Excellent for cut flowers and can be grown in mixed garden beds.
Prune after flowering to maintain compact growth.
Isopogon anemonifolius “Sunshine” is a selected form of the Broad Leaf Drumsticks from eastern New South Wales and features attractive foliage and new growth with well displayed bright yellow cone flowers in spring.
Drought, frost and coastal tolerant, to 1m in height it is an excellent refuge and food source for native birds.
Grevillea “Lemon Supreme” a hybrid grevillea from G. thelemanniana X G. olivacea has produced an evergreen fast growing shrub to 1.5m x 1.5m.
The masses of lemon yellow flowers are a delight in winter and spring.
Suitable for most soils, coastal planting, drought tolerant and attractive to birds.
Grevillea “Emma Charlotte” is a prostrate Australian native which flowers profusely through winter and spring; flowers are deep pink and highly attractive to birds.
Some summer watering is recommended until established.
Grevillea “Scarlet Sprite” grows 1-2 m tall in a sunny position, has deep green foliage and scarlet flowers in spring.
Grevillea “Firesprite” has terminal brushes 8-10cm on and off throughout the year and is extremely attractive.
An informal hedge or screen makes this a colourful addition to any garden.
Parrots and honeyeaters will flock to its flowers making this an ideal choice for the bird lovers garden.
A truly exotic native Elaeocarpus reticulatus, “Blueberry Ash” is an evergreen tall shrub/ small tree that is native to the east coast of Australia from Queensland to Tasmania.
It is a hardy plant that will grow best in moist well drained soil but will survive well in less favourable conditions.
Blueberry Ash has dense green foliage that responds well to pruning and makes and excellent hedge or screening plant.
Masses of small pink bell shaped flowers in spring and summer are aniseed scented. Small blue berries follow which attract native birds

The fruit garden
In the fruit garden there is still time to plant citrus so why not try one of our Australian native citrus, the Australian Sunrise Lime, a variety developed by the CSIRO.
It has small fruit with a sharp fresh flavour, great in jams or to eat fresh, with seafood or in stir fries and really delicious over barbequed fish.
Grow in a sunny spot with good drainage, excellent in a pot.
Feed with a potassium based fertiliser once flowering commences.
Passionfruit can still be planted, try a “Nellie Kelly grafted black passionfruit in a warm well drained spot, give it something to climb on and you will have delicious passionfruit for many years.
Cherries, plums and other stone fruits are growing larger and our feathered friends will be lying in wait so it is probably a good time to net fruit trees which are prone to attack.

Take time to enjoy the flowers and the birds,

Marg and the team at Meredith Nursery.

Welcome to the October newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

October

October is a wonderful month in the garden, the garden is a mass of fresh green growth, flowers are blooming, the swelling buds on the roses are full of promise and it is impossible not resist the urge to dig and plant, even the mundane task of weeding is not so bad on a beautiful spring day.

Now is a good time