What a wonderful time spring is for the keen gardener, flowers everywhere, summer vegetables such as tomatoes and corn are starting to grow and everywhere we see the results of our work and planning.
Now is the time to prepare for the hotter months ahead, utilise compost made over winter, get rid of spring weeds before they seed and then mulch, mulch, mulch.
The Water Efficient Garden.
Garden design
Until recently most Australian gardens were not designed with the efficient use of water as a priority, however the recent drought and water shortages have seen a marked change in the way we approach and design our gardens.
Those who are starting a new garden have a unique opportunity to design a garden which has low water needs.
For those with established gardens a reassessment of the placement of plants and introduction of drought tolerant species means we can still have and enjoy our gardens without guilt, and often with reduced work.
A site analysis of your garden can be as simple as a sketch of your house and garden and any other buildings on your site.
On this plan define prevailing winds, summer sun and shaded areas of the garden.
You will find that your garden has several microclimates in a relatively small area and these can be altered or exploited to obtain the results you want for your garden.
Areas which face north provide the sunny aspect necessary for growing vegetables, drying clothes and the addition of a pergola covered in a deciduous vine and deciduous shade trees, will provide summer shade and cooling and allow winter sun to warm the house.
Choose drought tolerant native plants or exotics from those parts of the world with similar climatic conditions to our own.
Windbreak plantings can minimise both hot and cold winds and in the smaller garden a hedge will provide a sheltered environment. 
In the water saving garden an ongoing program of soil improvement, using compost manure and mulches such as lucerne, peastraw and sugarcane will improve soil structure and fertility and the water holding capacity of soil.
Soil salinity will have a direct impact on the plants which will thrive in your locality and testing your water supply for disolved salt is an excellent idea.
This service is available locally at Meredith Nursery.
The acidity or alkalinity of soil should also be assessed, again this will indicate what will grow best in your area or allow you to take steps to change the pH of your soil.
When choosing native plants it is important to choose those which thrive in your area, many of our native plants grow in climatic regions of Australia which are very different from our own.
Mulching reduces moisture loss through evaporation, suppresses weeds which compete for moisture and reduces fluctuations in soil temperature.
Organic mulches rob the soil of nitrogen as they begin to break down.
It is useful to apply some blood and bone before mulch is laid down or to allow the mulch to begin to decompose before you use it.
Hydrophobic soils which do not take up water can be helped by the use of a wetting agent which improves the uptake and helps to distribute moisture throughout the soil.
Water storing crystals which absorb many times their own weight in water are of assistance when planting out trees and shrubs.
Care needs to be taken to use the correct amount or to hydrate the crystals before planting, as the plant can be pushed out of the ground by the swelling action of the crystals as they take up water.
It is preferable to make up the water crystals 24 hours before use, into a solution of Seasol®,(or other seaweed tonic with no N:P:K) at the rate of 25mls of Seasol®, per litre of good quality tank water. Do not use bore water unless it has and EC of less than 100. Stir this solution several times in the 24 hour period and you will find that the crystals take up the Seasol® solution ensuring this is available to the roots of the plant. Hnce a tonic placed at the root zone, which will offer some protection from stress due to heat, lack of water etc. When using water crystals remember to water deeply less frequently, ensuring that the watering has rehydrated the crystals to continue to be available to the plants roots.
Avoiding water wastage is the quickest way to reduce water consumption.
Grouping plants with similar water requirements together enables you to water when needed rather than watering an entire group to provide for a few thirsty plants.
Always check the soil moisture under mulch before you commence watering.
Avoid watering in the middle of the day when evaporation is highest, early morning is best for plants such as roses which are susceptible to fungal diseases.
Watering in the evening ensures that little moisture is lost to evaporation.
Drip irrigation is one of the best methods of watering as it delivers water where it is needed at the root zone and there is no wastage from spray drift.
The installation of a tank on garden sheds or outbuildings can provide an alternative supply for your garden and ensure that any summer rain can be harvested and utilised.
Recycling grey water from laundry and shower will provide a surprising amount of water, use a biodegradable laundry detergent, harvest the rinse cycle only and use the water alternately with other sources to avoid soil alkalinity. Do not use grey water on crops which you intend to eat to avoid contamination with bacteria which may be present in grey water.
Worm Farms.
Worm farms are an excellent means of providing rich vermicompost and liquid fertilizer for gardens.
Garden worms are not suitable for worm farms and the worms you purchase will  usually be referred to as tiger worms, compost worms or red wrigglers.
Successful worm farming is quite simple provided a few basic requirements are met.
Choose a sheltered spot for your farm, not too hot and not too cold.
Your container can be an old bath, polystyrene box or one of the purpose built worm farms which are available.
If you use a polystyrene container, put some holes in the container and place your bedding in this, then add the worms, cover and place over another container to catch the liquid.
A bedding layer of shredded paper, leaves and some finished compost about 15cm deep is placed on the bottom of your container.
The bedding is covered with a layer of hessian, carpet or newspaper to keep the bedding dark and moist.
Keep your worm farm moist but not wet, if worms migrate to the underside of the lid it is generally a sign that your farm is too wet.
Once the worms have burrowed in add a small amount of kitchen scraps, do not add any more until these are almost gone.
To harvest the vermicompost place new food to one side of the container and when the worms have migrated to the food remove the compost from the other side.
Vermicompost makes great fertilizer for pots, top dressing garden plants and can be used as potting mix.
The liquid which trickles to the bottom of your farm is a potent liquid fertilizer, dilute using 1 part of worm tea to 9 parts of water.
Packages of worms, worm tea and worm castings are now available from Meredith Nursery
Things to Add to a Worm Farm
Vegetable peelings
Fruit peelings
Teabags
Coffee grounds
Shredded paper
Do not Add
Citrus peel or fruit
Meat
Oils
Dairy products
Onions and onion skins
In the vegetable patch plant lettuce and salad greens every 2-3 weeks to ensure a good supply for tasty summer salads. Loose leaf varieties will enable you to harvest leaves over quite a long period and they come in an attractive range of colours and textures to add interest to your garden and your salad bowl.
Keep them growing strongly with liquid fertiliser applied fortnightly.
Plant tomato, basil, capsicum, sweet corn, zucchini, beetroot, pumpkin, cucumber, beans, (climbing and bush) eggplant,leek, silver beet and shallots.
Growing Tomatoes.
Tomatoes are warm climate plants so select a position which has the maximum amount of sunlight and protection from wind and frost.
Soil should be well drained with plenty of humus from a previous green manure crop which has been allowed to decay, aged animal manure or compost.
Calcium is necessary to strengthen the cell walls of both the plant and its fruit.
This will help to prevent blossom end rot which is caused by lack of calcium, hot weather and spasmodic watering.
Calcium is supplied by sprinkling garden lime or dolomite at about one handful per square metre, slightly more if your soil is very acidic.
Blossom end rot is a blackened sunken patch which appears at the basal end of the fruit.
The stem of the plant can be buried leaving the foliage above ground and providing your soil is well drained the plant will grow roots from the buried stem.
Liquid seaweed will encourage roots and you will have a healthier more productive plant.
 Potash is important to promote growth and flowering, it is sold a sulphate of potash or muriate of potash. Potash is also available in wood ash however this is unavailable to the plants unless organic acids are present in the soil. Organic acids are present in compost so it is important to supply plenty of compost if you use wood ash.
A fortnightly dose of liquid fertilizer or seaweed solution will keep them growing strongly.
Water regularly and mulch to ensure an even supply of moisture to your plants.
Do not water overhead particularly in the evening, this helps to prevent the spread of disease spores, gently trickle water at the base of your plants and allow it to spread out under the mulch.
Allow enough space around your plants to allow air movement and prevent disease.
Support your bushes to fruit resting on the ground and being attacked by slugs and snails.
If you are accustomed to supermarket tomatoes which have been bred with tough skins for mechanical harvesting and transporting long distances you will be astounded at the flavour and texture of your home grown tomatoes.
Growing Sweetcorn
Sweetcorn is wind pollinated so always plant your corn in blocks rather than rows to ensure a good crop.
Plant in soil which has been enriched with manure or compost.
Mulch heavily to encourage lateral roots at the soil surface
Keep moist.
In the herb garden
Parsley is a must, flat leaf parsley has the most flavour, while curly leaf parsley is slightly less aromatic with a crunchy texture.
Plant when soil has warmed in spring.
Tarragon likes a well drained soil in full sun, it has a delicate licorice flavour.
Borage has sky blue star shaped flowers which can be used in salads, or to attract bees into your garden for pollination of other crops.
Coriander is best grown in spring and autumn as it bolts into flower and seeds in full sun.
Sage is a shrubby perennial with aromatic leaves and attractive flowers.
Harvest the leaves for cooking before the plant flowers when they are most fragrant.
Cut back after flowering to keep compact.
Rosemary is an evergreen shrub which makes a fragrant hedge and responds well to clipping into balls and cones.
It likes a sunny position and well drained soil.
There are prostrate forms also available that will cascade over garden walls or banks.
Thyme, hardy perennials, some are mat forming others are small woody shrubs which thrive in full sun in well drained soil.
Clip them after flowering to encourage fresh new growth and enjoy them in salads and savoury dishes.
Oregano and marjorum are both species of origanum.
Grow in well drained soil in a sunny position and cut back after flowering.
Use in savoury dishes.
Chives are perennials which die back in winter, divide clumps every 2-3 years in early spring
The pink flower balls make an attractive border in the herb or vegetable garden.
Garlic chives have broader stems and white flowers and the flat leaves have a distinctive garlic flavour.
Lemon balm smells of lemon but is actually a relative of mint.
It makes a refreshing herbal tea and can be used wherever a lemon flavour is required.
Mints of which there are many varieties are fragrant perennials which enjoy moist soil.
Best grown in pots as they spread by means of underground stems and will quickly invade your garden
Bay, (Laurus nobilis) grown for its aromatic leaves, it grows well in containers and can be clipped into topiary shapes. In the ground it grows slowly into a large tree.
The leaves of sweet bay are used in cooking, however never eat the berries as they are poisonous.
Basil is grown as an annual after danger of frost has passed, it is useful in salads and essential in tomato dishes.
Dill is an aromatic annual which adds flavour to seafood.
Chervil has feathery foliage and an aniseed flavour, sow directly into the ground in moist soil and partial shade to prevent bolting to seed.
In the ornamental garden it’s time to apply fertilizer to pots and garden beds.
Use a pelletised fertiliser for around roses and perennials and give pot plants a dose of liquid fertiliser and some slow release pellets.
Be sure to use the amount recommended on the label as more is not necessarily better!
Always water before and after applying fertiliser, which should extend out to the dripline of the plant.
Plant specific fertilisers, such as low phosphorus formulas for natives, acidic for Azaleas and other acid loving plants, and citrus for lemons and other citrus give good results. We are happy to help with any queries you may have.
Keeping on top`of weeds in spring is most important to prevent the spread of fungal diseases slugs and snails which enjoy the moist conditions and will quickly decimate your young plants.
Weeds compete with your plants for food and moisture so unless they are seeding put them into the compost heap.
Deadhead or trim flowering plants and shrubs to promote shapely growth and prolong flowering. A video showing how to dead head roses is available from our website here.
Plant dianthus, impatiens, lobelia, marigold, nasturtium, petunias, salvia, aster, snapdragon, cleome and dahlias.
Monitor roses for black spot and other fungal problems, water in the morning if possible and try not to wet the leaves
We have some great potted roses at the nursery at the moment, “Casanova” is a bright clear copper-orange, striking in garden or pot, as is “Tropical Sunset” with swirls of pinky orange and cream. “Windermere” is a pure white rose from David  Austin, a small to medium bushy shrub which is free flowering and has a delightful fruity fragrance and “Heritage” another Austin, a soft pink, also fragrant and free flowering. For fans of the “painter” roses we have “Henri Matisse” and “Alfred Sisely”.
Clip box and other hedges to keep them shapely, fertilise and mulch.
Bearded iris are at their peak now, enjoy the delicate blooms and lift and divide after flowering if necessary.
Discard the spent tubers at the centre and replant making sure the top of the tuber is above ground.
Ajuga “Catlin’s Giant” has beautiful deep blue flowers in spring and makes a stunning groundcover under roses.
Asters or Easter Daisies are a popular plant for the  border; “Pink Star” has masses of soft pink flowers in late summer to mid autumn.
Part to full sun, good drainage and an application of fertilizer in mid spring will keep it growing well. 
Lavenders are also blooming now trim them back when they have finished to keep them compact and bushy. L. “Ruffled Ladies are particularly handsome additions to your garden.
A little lime or dolomite is enjoyed by both bearded iris and lavenders.
In the native garden prune after flowering has finished and apply a low phosphorus fertilizer, water in and mulch well.
Natives planted now will make excellent growth if kept moist over the summer months.
Helichrysum, (strawflower) is a hardy annual which looks good in both the native or exotic garden.
Till next time
Happy gadening from
Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery
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hello marg, great info – makes one want to jump into the garden:) on the water saving side, here in south africa it can get very dry and hot, and the water absorbing crystels work very well. as an added bonus, one can ix in a 1:5 mix of vermicompost to this, or shredded newspaper. vermicompost has a very high humus content, and great for water absorption. remember to muclh though… cheers stacey