Meredith Nursery Feb / Mar 2009 Newsletter

In this Issue Vegie Patch Ornamental Garden Soil Preparation & Improvement Native garden Orchard VISIT THE NURSERY February / March Summer in the garden means using whatever water we have available, mulching to conserve moisture and enjoying our gardens in the early mornings and evenings when it is cool and pleasant. With the recent high temperatures it is easy to forget that autumn is just around the corner and we need to plan and prepare for winter and spring. Now is an excellent time to take note of the performance of your plants under very hot and difficult conditions, and perhaps replace those that have struggled, with some of the many plants more suited to our Mediterranean climate. It is also a good time to assess areas of the garden which could benefit from suitable shade trees. Planting a deciduous tree or trees on the north side of the house provides valuable shade and cooling in summer  and allows winter sun to warm your house. In the vegetable patch continue to mulch tomatoes, corn, pumpkins cucumbers beans and capsicum. It is important to get late winter and spring crops in to ensure there isn’t a gap between summer and spring vegetables, delay now means that plants will not make enough growth before the soil temperatures drop in winter. If you can, transplant seedlings early in the morning or evening preferably on an overcast or dull day. Make a hole which is deep enough to contain the roots, fill with soil or compost and gently press down soil around the plant. Water in with seaweed fertilizer and provide some shade if the weather is hot. Plant carrots and parsnips in an area which has been fertilized for a previous crop, fresh manure will cause forking of roots. Deeply dug, friable soil will ensure long tapering roots. Parsnip seed has a very short life so be sure to purchase fresh seed each year. Plant broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower, use compost and dolomite or lime and keep them growing strongly with fortnightly doses of liquid manure. White cabbage month can be a problem at this time of year, small wire tunnels covered in bird netting work very well or you can check the underside of the leaves each day. Plant lettuce in soil which has good humus and nitrogen levels, mulch and keep moist, this will keep them growing strongly and prevent them from becoming bitter. Turnips and swede turnips are great for winter soups and stews, sow directly and thin to 10 cms apart. Silver beet is a biennial which goes to seed in its second season, hardy and prolific it likes nitrogen and a mulch in dry weather. Garlic needs good drainage and soil rich in humus, plant cloves 4 to 5 cms deep. A dressing of lime or dolomite provides the alkaline conditions which beetroot prefers, add some compost and plant about 15cms apart. Keep moist and weed free. In the ornamental garden Roses have again proven to be winners flowering prolifically despite the extreme heat. Now is the time to prune them lightly, fertilize and water for an autumn flush of blooms. Take your secateurs with you into the garden and continue to deadhead perennials and annuals to keep them flowering. Tip prune fuchsias and give a liquid feed to encourage flowering. A sprinkle of lime around hellebores will help developing flower buds, water in well. Fertilize camellias, daphne, rhododendrons, azalea and magnolias now for a beautiful display in late winter and spring. Geraniums (Pelargoniums) should be cut back now to keep them shapely and allow them to put on growth before winter. Group pot plants together, watering is quicker and easier and pots stay moist for longer periods. Cover sensitive plants with shadecloth, if sun damage has already occurred resist the urge to remove the damaged leaves until temperatures become milder in autumn. Remove emerging weeds before they seed and throw them in the compost. Autumn is the best time to divide clivia, agapanthus and daylilies. Prepare soil with some compost and keep them moist. Trim hedges such as box, westringia, lilly pilly and lonicera. Soil Preparation and Improvement. Late summer and early autumn is the best time to prepare soil for winter and spring planting. Any good garden starts with the soil and water wise gardening is no exception, whatever your soil type, (sandy, clay or loam) it will improve, become more friable and have increased water holding capacity with the addition of organic matter. Continue to mulch with animal manures such as sheep, cow, horse or chicken, and mulch  using  peastraw, sugarcane, or your own compost or leaf mould. If soil is acidic add some dolomite or lime, about two handsful per square metre. These materials are necessary for long term soil improvement, forming valuable humus as they decompose. Green Manure Organic matter can be added to the soil by growing a green manure crop which is dug into the soil about six to eight weeks after planting, this is an excellent way of introducing a lot of organic matter into the soil very quickly. Trench Composting A compost trench is a simple alternative to a compost heap and is a method which can be used during autumn and winter when activity slows in compost bins. Most suited for vegetable gardens where nutrient loss is high or for improving soil fertility in specific ares of the garden. In late summer or autumn dig out a trench about 30 cm wide and 30 cm deep. Gradually fill the trench with plant debris, vegetable scraps and other kitchen waste. Dig a second parallel trench and cover the material in the first trench with the soil that has been dug from the second trench. Woody materials such as brassica stems and plant prunings may need to chopped roughly or shredded before being buried. Some pelleted chicken manure or blood and bone to supply nitrogen will help to speed up the process. The Deep Bed System When using the deep bed system  soil is removed to one spade deep and the exposed subsoil in the bottom of the trench is broken up with a garden fork to allow roots to penetrate deeply. Place a generous layer of manure, compost or other organic matter in the bottom of the trench and cover with soil. From this point on cultivation is kept to a minimum and additional organic matter is only added as top dressing or mulch. Making Leafmould. Leafmould is an excellent soil conditioner,a valuable source of organic matter, is simple to make and needs very little preparation. Deciduous tree and shrubs will soon be dropping huge amounts of this valuable soil conditioner so gather it up and put it to use. For large gardens a wire sided bin or pen to hold leaves as they decompose is all that is necessary, while for smaller gardens  black plastic rubbish bags are all that is needed. Rake up fallen leaves after rain and place them in bags or bins. To every 30cm layer of leaves add a handful of organic fertilizer such as pelleted chicken manure, and water thoroughly when bag is full. Over a period of about two years the leaves will decompose and settle to produce mulch or soil conditioner. If this is done every autumn you will always have an excellent supply of mulch or organic matter to add to your soil. To accelerate leaf decay run the lawn mower over them with the grasscatcher attached and empty into bin or bags. Site preparation for revegetation and shelterbelts. Adequate preparation of the site is crucial to the survival of seedling trees and their subsequent growth. Weed control prior to planting and for the first year is the most important step to take to avoid seedling death and stunted growth, competition for stored soil moisture is eliminated and active growth is possible in spring and summer. The site should be deep ripped in late summer/early autumn to achieve soil “shatter”, well tilled soil allows any moisture to be absorbed, better root development and uniformity of growth. Top Water Storing Crystals. Pre soaked water storing  crystals placed in the planting hole or mixed into potting mix or soil, are essential to give your plants the best chance of success. Only small quantities are needed (1/2 teaspoon per plant) and it is important to soak them in a seaweed solution before placing them in the root zone. The crystals absorb the liquid fertilizer and moisture and provide the plant with both nutrients and moisture. Soil Wetting Agents Soil wetting agents come in both liquid and granular form and are particularly useful where soils are water repellant. They break down the water resistant layer on top of the soil preventing wasteful run off, help soil retain moisture longer after rain and move water faster into the root zone. After the prolonged dry summer period soils will benefit from the application of a soil wetting agent to ensure penetration of water and lessen “runoff”. Both these products are invaluable in a waterwise garden In the home orchard it is time to feed citrus, limes, lemons, mandarin, oranges, grapefruit and cumquats. Use a citrus fertilizer or pelleted chicken manure, water well,and mulch. Citrus grow best in well drained loam in full sun with some protection from strong winds, roots grow very close to the surface so avoid deep cultivation and fertilize and mulch out to the dripline. Fertilize other fruit trees from early to mid autumn, good hygiene will help to prevent pests and diseases so pick up and dispose of apples with codling moth infestation, (place in a plastic bag and dispose of in the bin), other fallen and mummified fruit should also be discarded. Continue to mulch cane fruits, currants, blueberries and strawberries, keep moist and apply some leafmould if available. Rhubarb should be deep mulched and kept moist, if you intend to plant rhubarb crowns in winter it is important to prepare the soil now. Rhubarb is a cool climate plant and thrives in humus rich soil with lots of nitrogen. If you are planning to plant fruit trees or cane fruit, ensure your site is well drained, dig deeply and incorporate some compost and or aged manure. Mulch with an organic mulch and you will have given your plants an excellent start in spring. Top In the native garden autumn is an excellent time to establish new plants which will make good growth before the short days and lower temperatures of winter slow growth. When choosing native plants for your garden it is important to remember that one size definitely does not fit all, Australia has many different climatic regions and it is best to choose plants which will thrive in your area. As with all plants soil is important, while many native plants are hardy most will benefit from some care taken with soil preparation prior to planting. Heavy clay soils which have poor soil structure do not allow easy penetration of water however when water does get through waterlogging can occur. Creating raised beds will enable plants to be grown in these areas In sandy soils moisture retention and low levels of nutrients  can be a problem,using small amounts of compost and mulching with organic mulches will help, however organic mulches which contain high levels of nutrients should be avoided as they may be too rich for some natives. Fertilizer should be chosen from formulations which are low in phosphorus. Tip pruning when young creates a more compact plant which will flower well. Attracting native birds to your garden is best achieved by planting a variety of  species which provide shelter and food. Plants should include necter bearing plants such as banksias, callistemon, correas and grevilleas as well as seed bearing native grasses, banksias, hakeas and leptosperman, are just a few of the many plants which are available. The use of native plants as hedges has become increasingly popular, many native plants grow quickly to provide dense shelter and privacy As plants in a hedge must compete for nutrients and moisture it is important to prepare the site by digging deeply and incorporating some organic matter into the soil. A little care may need to be taken initially with watering, weeding and tip pruning but most are hardy and will need minimal attention when mature apart from a trim to keep them bushy and dense. Do not be tempted to allow your hedge to grow tall to quickly, clipping and tip pruning will encourage your plants to grow from the base and you will have new growth from base to top. Hakeas such as H. salicfolia if tightly clipped make a great hedge or screen and are particularly useful in a narrow area beside a driveway or fence. Westringia fruiticosa the coastal rosemary can be clipped hard for a drought tolerant hedge in a waterwise garden, and W. “Wynyabbie Gem’ makes a lovely low hedge to define driveways and paving. Grevilleas, banksias and callistemon  make softer, less formal, colourful and attractive hedges while the sticky wattle A.howittii has pale yellow flowers in spring and a slightly weeping habit which makes a stunning backdrop to any garden. For low hedges there are the correas which can be clipped quite hard if necessary, Callistemon “Little John” has red flowers while G “Scarlet Sprite” has beautiful scarlet spider flowers. The increasing popularity of the lillipillies is well deserved and Syzygium “Bush Christmas” a fine leafed lillipilly with new growth an attractive crimson, is an excellent choice for a small hedge. Well that’s all for this month, enjoy the milder autumn weather, Marg and the team at Meredith nursery. TOP Copyright 2009 Meredith Wholesale Nursery Forward this message to a friend | Privacy Policy

Meredith Nursery Spring Newsletter

In this Issue Water efficient garden Worms and Worm farms Vegie Patch Tomatoes Herbs Native garden Ornamental Garden What a wonderful time spring is for the keen gardener, flowers everywhere, summer vegetables such as tomatoes and corn are starting to grow and everywhere we see the results of our work and planning. Now is the time to prepare for the hotter months ahead, utilise compost made over winter, get rid of spring weeds before they seed and then mulch, mulch, mulch. The Water Efficient Garden. Garden design Until recently most Australian gardens were not designed with the efficient use of water as a priority, however the recent drought and water shortages have seen a marked change in the way we approach and design our gardens. Those who are starting a new garden have a unique opportunity to design a garden which  has low water needs. For those with established gardens a reassessment of the placement of plants and introduction of drought tolerant species means we can still have and enjoy our gardens without guilt, and often with reduced work. A site analysis of your garden can be as simple as a sketch of your house and garden and any other buildings on your site. On this plan define prevailing winds, summer sun and shaded areas of the garden. You will find that your garden has several microclimates in a relatively small area and these can be altered or exploited to obtain the results you want for your garden. Areas which face north provide the sunny aspect necessary for growing vegetables, drying clothes and the addition of a pergola covered in a deciduous vine  and deciduous shade trees, will provide summer shade and cooling and allow winter sun to warm the house. Choose drought tolerant native plants or exotics from those parts of the world with similar climatic conditions to our own. Windbreak plantings can minimise both hot and cold winds and in the smaller garden a hedge will provide a sheltered environment. In the water saving garden an ongoing  program of soil improvement, using compost manure and mulches such as lucerne, peastraw and sugarcane will improve soil structure and fertility and the water holding capacity of soil. Soil salinity will have a direct impact on the plants which will thrive in your locality and testing your water supply for disolved salt is an excellent idea. This service is available locally at Meredith Nursery. The acidity or alkalinity of soil should also be assessed, again this will indicate what will grow best in your area or allow you to take steps to change the pH of your soil. When choosing native plants it is important to choose those which thrive in your area, many of our native plants grow in climatic regions of Australia which are very different from our own. Mulching reduces moisture loss through evaporation, suppresses weeds which compete for moisture and reduces fluctuations in soil temperature. Organic mulches rob the soil of nitrogen as they begin to break down. It is useful to apply some blood and bone before mulch is laid down or to allow the mulch to begin to decompose before you use it. Hydrophobic soils which do not take up water can be helped by the use of a wetting agent which improves the uptake and helps to distribute  moisture throughout  the soil. Water storing crystals which absorb many times their own weight in water are of assistance when planting out trees and shrubs. Care needs to be taken to use the correct amount or to hydrate the crystals before planting, as the plant can be pushed out of the ground by the swelling action of the crystals as they take up water. It is preferable to make up the water crystals 24 hours before use, into a solution of Seasol®,(or other  seaweed tonic with no N:P:K) at the rate of 25mls of Seasol®, per litre of good quality tank water. Do not use bore water unless it has and EC of less than 100.   Stir this solution several times in the 24 hour period and you will find that the crystals take up the Seasol® solution ensuring this is available to the roots of the plant. Hnce a tonic placed at the root zone, which will offer some protection from stress due to heat, lack of water etc.  When using water crystals remember to water deeply less frequently, ensuring that the watering has rehydrated the crystals to continue to be available to the plants roots. Avoiding water wastage is the quickest way to reduce water consumption. Grouping plants with similar water requirements together enables you to water when needed rather than watering an entire group to provide for a few thirsty plants. Always check the soil moisture under mulch before you commence watering. Avoid watering in the middle of the day when evaporation is highest, early morning  is best for plants such as roses which are susceptible to fungal diseases. Watering in the evening ensures that little moisture is lost to evaporation. Drip irrigation is one of the best methods of watering as it delivers water where it is needed at the root zone and there is no wastage from spray drift. The installation of a tank on garden sheds or outbuildings can provide an alternative supply for your garden and ensure that any summer rain can be harvested and utilised. Recycling grey water from laundry and shower will provide a surprising amount of water, use a biodegradable laundry detergent, harvest the rinse cycle only and use the water alternately with other sources to avoid soil alkalinity. Do not use grey water on crops which you intend to eat to avoid contamination with bacteria which may be present in grey water. TOP Worm Farms. Worm farms are an excellent means of providing  rich vermicompost and liquid fertilizer for gardens. Garden worms are not suitable for worm farms and the worms you purchase will usually be referred to as tiger worms, compost worms or red wrigglers. Successful worm farming is quite simple provided a few basic requirements are met. Choose a sheltered spot for your farm, not too hot and not too cold. Your container can be an old bath, polystyrene box or one of the purpose built worm farms which are available. If you use a polystyrene container, put some holes in the container and place your bedding in this, then add the worms, cover and place over another container to catch the liquid. A bedding layer of shredded paper, leaves and some finished compost about 15cm deep is placed on the bottom of your container. The bedding is covered with a layer of hessian, carpet or newspaper to keep the bedding dark and moist. Keep your worm farm moist but not wet, if worms migrate to the underside of the lid it is generally a sign that your farm is too wet. Once the worms have burrowed in add a small amount of kitchen scraps, do not add any more until these are almost gone. To harvest the vermicompost place new food to one side of the container and when the worms have migrated to the food remove the compost from the other side. Vermicompost makes great fertilizer for pots, top dressing garden plants and can be used as potting mix. The liquid which trickles to the bottom of your farm is a potent liquid fertilizer, dilute using 1 part of worm tea to 9  parts of water. Packages of worms, worm tea and worm castings are now available from Meredith Nursery Things to Add to a Worm Farm Vegetable peelings Fruit peelings Teabags Coffee grounds Shredded paper Do not Add Citrus peel or fruit Meat Oils Dairy products Onions and onion skins In the vegetable patch plant lettuce and salad greens every 2-3 weeks to ensure a good supply for tasty summer salads. Loose leaf varieties will enable you to harvest leaves over quite a long period and they come in an attractive range of colours and textures to add interest to your garden and your salad bowl. Keep them growing strongly with liquid fertiliser applied fortnightly. Plant tomato, basil, capsicum, sweet corn, zucchini, beetroot, pumpkin, cucumber, beans, (climbing and bush) eggplant,leek, silver beet and shallots. TOP Growing Tomatoes. Tomatoes are warm climate plants so select a position which has the maximum amount of sunlight and protection from wind and frost. Soil should be well drained with plenty of humus from a previous green manure crop which has been allowed to decay, aged animal manure or compost. Calcium is necessary to strengthen the cell walls of both the plant and its fruit. This will help to prevent blossom end rot which is caused by lack of calcium, hot weather and spasmodic watering. Calcium is supplied by sprinkling garden lime or dolomite at about one handful per square metre, slightly more if your soil is very acidic. Blossom end rot is a blackened sunken patch which appears at the basal end of the fruit. The stem of the plant can be buried leaving the foliage above ground and providing your soil is well drained the plant will grow roots from the buried stem. Liquid seaweed will encourage roots and you will have a healthier more productive plant. Potash is important to promote growth and flowering, it is sold a sulphate of potash or muriate of potash. Potash is also available in wood ash however this is unavailable to the plants unless organic acids are present in the soil. Organic acids are present in compost so it is important to supply plenty of compost if you use wood ash. A fortnightly dose of liquid fertilizer or seaweed solution will keep them growing strongly. Water regularly and mulch to ensure an even supply of moisture to your plants. Do not water overhead particularly in the evening, this helps to prevent the spread of disease spores, gently trickle water at the base of your plants and allow it to spread out under the mulch. Allow enough space around your plants to allow air movement and prevent disease. Support your bushes to fruit resting on the ground and being attacked by slugs and snails. If you are accustomed to supermarket tomatoes which have been bred with tough skins for mechanical harvesting and transporting long distances you will be astounded at the flavour and texture of your home grown tomatoes. Growing Sweetcorn Sweetcorn is wind pollinated so always plant your corn in blocks rather than rows to ensure a good crop. Plant in soil which has been enriched with manure or compost. Mulch heavily to encourage lateral roots at the soil surface Keep moist. In the herb garden Parsley is a must, flat leaf parsley has the most flavour, while curly leaf parsley is slightly less aromatic with a crunchy texture. Plant when soil has warmed in spring. Tarragon likes a well drained soil in full sun, it has a delicate licorice flavour. Borage has sky blue star shaped flowers which can be used in salads, or to attract bees into your garden for pollination of other crops. Coriander is best grown in spring and autumn as it bolts into flower and seeds in full sun. Sage is a shrubby perennial with aromatic leaves and attractive flowers. Harvest the leaves for cooking before the plant flowers when they are most fragrant. Cut back after flowering to keep compact. Rosemary is an evergreen shrub which makes a fragrant hedge and responds well to clipping into balls and cones. It likes a sunny position and well drained soil. There  are prostrate forms also available that will cascade over garden walls or banks. Thyme, hardy perennials, some are mat forming others are small woody shrubs which thrive in full sun in well drained soil. Clip them after flowering to encourage fresh new growth and enjoy them in salads and savoury dishes. Oregano and marjorum are both species of origanum. Grow in well drained soil in a sunny position and cut back after flowering. Use in savoury dishes. Chives are perennials which die back in winter, divide clumps every 2-3 years in early spring The pink flower balls make an attractive border in the herb or vegetable garden. Garlic chives have broader stems and white flowers and the flat leaves have a distinctive garlic flavour. Lemon balm smells of lemon but is actually a relative of mint. It makes a refreshing herbal tea and can be used wherever a lemon flavour is required. Mints of which there are many varieties are fragrant perennials which enjoy moist soil. Best grown in pots as they spread by means of underground stems and will quickly invade your garden Bay,  (Laurus nobilis) grown for its aromatic leaves, it grows well in containers and can be clipped into topiary shapes. In the ground it grows slowly into a large tree. The leaves of sweet bay are used in cooking,  however never eat the berries as they are poisonous. Basil is grown as an annual after danger of frost has passed, it is useful in salads and essential in tomato dishes. Dill is an aromatic annual which adds flavour to seafood. Chervil has feathery foliage and an aniseed flavour, sow directly into the ground in moist soil and partial shade to prevent bolting to seed. TOP In the ornamental garden it’s time to apply fertilizer to pots and garden beds. Use a pelletised fertiliser for around roses and perennials and give pot plants a dose of liquid fertiliser and some slow release pellets. Be sure to use the amount recommended on the label as more is not necessarily better! Always water before and after applying fertiliser, which should extend out to the dripline of the plant. Plant specific fertilisers, such as low phosphorus formulas for natives, acidic for Azaleas and other acid loving plants, and citrus for lemons and other citrus give good results. We are happy to help with any queries you may have. Keeping on top`of weeds in spring is most important to prevent the spread of fungal diseases slugs and snails which enjoy the moist conditions and will quickly decimate your young plants. Weeds compete with your plants for food and moisture so unless they are seeding put them into the compost heap. Deadhead or trim flowering plants and shrubs to promote shapely growth and prolong flowering. A video showing how to dead head roses is available from our website here. Plant dianthus, impatiens, lobelia, marigold, nasturtium, petunias, salvia, aster, snapdragon, cleome and dahlias. Monitor roses for black spot and other fungal problems, water in the morning if possible and try not to wet the leaves We have some great potted  roses at the nursery at the moment, “Casanova” is a bright clear copper-orange, striking in garden or pot, as is “Tropical Sunset” with swirls of pinky orange and cream. “Windermere” is a pure white rose from David Austin, a small to medium bushy shrub which is free flowering and has a delightful fruity fragrance and “Heritage” another Austin, a soft pink, also fragrant and free flowering.  For fans of the “painter” roses we have “Henri Matisse” and “Alfred Sisely”. Clip box and other hedges to keep them shapely, fertilise and mulch. Bearded iris are at their peak now, enjoy the delicate blooms and lift and divide after flowering if necessary. Discard the spent tubers at the centre and replant making sure the top of the tuber is above ground. Ajuga “Catlin’s Giant” has beautiful deep blue flowers in spring and makes a stunning groundcover under roses. Asters or Easter Daisies are a popular plant for the border; “Pink Star” has masses of soft pink flowers in late summer to mid autumn. Part to full sun, good drainage and an application of fertilizer in mid spring will keep it growing well. Lavenders are also blooming now trim them back when they have finished to keep them compact and bushy. L. “Ruffled Ladies are particularly handsome additions to your garden. A little lime or dolomite is enjoyed by both bearded iris and lavenders. In the native garden prune after flowering has finished and apply a low phosphorus fertilizer, water in and mulch well. Natives planted now will make excellent growth if kept moist over the summer months. Helichrysum, (strawflower) is a hardy annual which looks good in both the native or exotic garden. Till next time Happy gadening from Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery TOP Copyright 2008 Meredith Wholesale Nursery

Meredith Nursery August Newsletter

Winter is rapidly giving way to spring, buds are swelling, daffodils, magnolia and blossom trees are blooming and the birds are busily seeking out nesting materials.
There is no better time to get busy in the garden and enjoy the sights, the sounds and the scents of spring.

Slow release fertilizers can now be applied to pots, and garden beds appreciate an application of pelletised fertilizer.
Watch out for slugs and snails on tender new shoots and buds they will quickly decimate your precious plants.

In the vegetable patch pull weeds before they seed to prevent reinfestation and conserve nutrients and moisture.
Plant potatoes, peas, snow peas, beetroot, broccoli, lettuce, silver beet and onion.
Continue to harvest brussel sprouts, cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower.
Keep broad beans growing strongly with fortnightly applications of liquid fertilizer.
If you have not already done so prepare beds for tomatoes, sweetcorn, capsicum, eggplant, pumpkins and other summer crops.
Dig in plenty of compost and manure and sprinkle some blood and bone and potash into the soil.
Allow to rest for a few weeks and then plant summer crops when all danger of frost has passed.
For those who have limited space a surprising amount of salad and other herbs and vegetables can be grown in pots and other containers in a sunny courtyard or patio.

In the native garden
The first warm spring days can be stressful for newly planted natives, many are drought hardy once established but do need some care in the early stages.
Prune plants after flowering to promote bushy growth, improve flowering and prevent plants becoming straggly.
Tip prune smaller plants to encourage the plant to develop evenly.
Use a low phosphorus fertlizer to ensure your plants reach their full potential.
Hardenbergia have been spectacular in the late winter garden this year and with so many beautiful colours now available they are a great addition to the garden.

Hardenbergia

Hardenbergia “Free and Easy” is a beautiful white with a tinge of vanilla and Hardenbergia “Happy Duo”is a combination planting of white and violet.
A beautiful grevillea of medium size is “Lady O”, to 1-1.5m high and 1.5-2m wide the bright red flowers will bring nectar feeding birds to your garden.
Grevillea lanigera lutea has pale green leaves and pale yellow flowers appearing all year round, very unusual and delicate.
To 1.2m high and wide, it is a perfect foil for other colours in the garden.
Callistemon “Great Balls of Fire” is a terrific hedging plant. Prune regularly to encourage new growth which is flushed with cerise
For those`who like a formal effect there are many natives which respond well to clipping and regular shaping. Many gardeners are now using these plants in formal parterres, minimalist and Japanese gardens.

Westringia “Wild River” has dark green foliage and mauve flowers throughout the year, makes a low hedge or tub specimen and responds well to clipping.
Acacia cognata dwarf “Mini Cog” is a hardy compact shrub with emerald green foliage and gentle weeping habit, excellent for a border, rockery or tub specimen.
Eucalyptus latens “Moon Lagoon” is a dry tolerant small mallee which has very attractive grey juvenile foliage. Perfect for the minimalist garden.
Pruning every three to four years will keep foliage silver grey and dense and the foliage is excellent for floral arrangements.

In the ornamental garden magnolias are putting on a stunning display, as are spring bulbs and blossom.
Resist the urge to cut foliage on bulbs as they finish blooming, give them some blood and bone and potash and you will ensure a lovely display of blooms for next year.
Lift and divide perennials such as liriope, mondo grass, dianella, agapanthus and cannas.
Replant and water in well and they should make good growth.
Complete rose pruning and do not allow newly planted roses to dry out as weather warms. Mulch well to retain moisture.
Plant cosmos, cornflowers, larkspurs, stocks, ageratum, alyssum, phlox, petunia. Virginian stock, strawflowers aqilegia, erigeron and salvia.

Plant petunias and lobelias in pots and hanging baskets for a lovely display on the verandah or an outdoor eating area and fertilize with liquid fertilizer to promote strong growth.

Aphids

Watch for infestations of aphids on new growth on roses and dislodge them with a strong jet of water from your hose.
Cut back wisteria as flowers fade to contain rampant growth.
Tip prune plants such as fuchsias to encourage fuller growth and more flowers.
Echium “Pink Fountain” and Echium “Cobalt Towers”are striking perennials with long flower spikes on a tall plant. Hardy and drought resistant these architectural plants are a wonderful foil for roses and more delicate plants.
Salvia leucantha is another tough plant which has a delicate mauve flower and graceful pale green leaves. Good for the cottage garden amongst roses.
Others for the cottage garden are Salvia “Indigo Spires”, Penstemon “Midnight” Delphinium “Magic Fountains Dark Blue”, Viola “Sawyers Black” and Aquilegia “Goldfinch”.

Summer Bulbs
Many of us who have purchased an established garden have inherited some of these fascinating bulbs
Amaryllis (Belladonnas)….. also known as naked ladies, these bulbs are often the only remaining evidence of a former homestead.
The flower stalk produces large pink blooms which are trumpet shaped, there is also a creamy white variety which is less common.
Foliage appears after the flowers, transplant`before or just after flowering with the neck and shoulders of the bulb above the soil.

Hemorocallis (Day Lilies)….. hardy clumps of summer foliage, flowers which last for a day are produced throughout summer.
They prefer a sunny position and thrive in most soils.

Gladioli….. There are late spring and winter flowering varieties but the main flowering period is summer.
Best in clumps amongst lower growing annuals or perennials in full sun.

Dahlias…. Actually a tuber, they enjoy weekly watering in dry spells, pellatised manure or slow release fertilizer and come in many different colours and variations in flower shape and size.
English gardeners use them to perfection for splashes of colour in herbaceous borders.

Liliums….Enjoy full sun or very light shade and moist fertile soil which is well drained. Flowers are borne in late spring to early summer.
Oriental lilies flower in mid summer and prefer a cold winter
Asiatic lilies flower in early summer, both come in a huge range of colours and they are wonderful cut flowers.

Calla Lily….. smaller than the arum lily, callas are not as prone to become weeds.
Callas come in a range of colours and flowers are produced in summer.
Sun or part shade and plenty of water during the growing period, followed by a dry period as it starts to die back in autumn will ensure success.

Nerines….Nerines have attractive spidery flowers in pink, deep pink and white and are hardy and easy to grow. Bulbs should be planted with the neck above ground.
The growing period commences in September and flowering is in March and April
Plants prefer a dry period after flowering finishes so they are ideal for areas which do not require watering.

Hippeastrums….visitors to s.e. queensland will be familiar with these beautiful bulbs which thrive in sub tropical conditions.
Planted with their necks above ground level, they enjoy full sun in cool climates, and do not grow well in frosty regions although they will survive light frost.
Available in a range of colours, once established they can survive prolonged periods of dryness. Leaves die back in winter when water should be reduced.

Kniphofias (Red Hot Pokers)…..poker like stems topped with bells, mostly summer flowering although winter and spring flowering varieties are available.
Mainly reds and yellows although some unusual colours are now available.

Kniphofias

They prefer to be left undisturbed in a sunny position.

In the home orchard keep a watch on new plantings and do not allow them to dry out.
Mulch well and check stakes are secure, spring winds can cause damage and dry out unprotected soil.
Now is an excellent time to prune and shape citrus.
Remove any straggly or diseased branches and dispose of spoiled fruit.
An application of citrus food and pellatised chicken manure will ensure good growth and lots of blossom. Feed out to the dripline of the tree.
New plantings of citrus can be made now, to ensure success choose a sunny well drained spot, sheltered from strong winds.
Citrus will not thrive in windy sites or tolerate poor drainage, provided these needs are met they are hardy and prolific.
Grape pruning should be completed in August.
Fertilize all fruit trees, vines and berries now and mulch well to conserve moisture as temperatures rise in late spring.

Enjoy the sights and delights of the spring garden, until next time

Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery

Meredith Nursery July Newsletter

Often wrongly perceived as a drab time in the garden,winter gardens are full of gentle colours and heavenly scents, with jonquils and daphne, camellias and hellabores, primula and pansies all enjoying the winter sunshine, while in the native garden hardenbergia, grevillea, leptospermum and wattle are all putting on a glorious display.
With careful planning it is possible to have a beautiful and fragrant garden all year round.

In the vegetable patch continue to foliar fertilise onions, cabbage, cauliflower, and brussel sprouts to keep them growing as days lengthen.
Watch for caterpillars which appear this month and spray with Dipel.
Good rain and moist conditions in the garden also mean slugs and snails, they will defoliate seedlings very quickly if left unchecked.
Broad beans should be making good growth now and will also appreciate some foliar fertiliser. A late sowing of these beans is still possible and will ensure plenty of beans for eating and freezing.

Plant lettuce, beetroot, peas, onion, cauliflower, cabbage, asparagus and broccoli.
Prepare beds for spring planting, dig in any green manure crops and cover with a thick layer of sheep manure or compost.

In the ornamental garden continue bare root planting of roses, there are few gardens which do not have room for a rose or two tucked among the other plants and a hedge of roses in full bloom can be a breathtaking sight.
We have some old favourites like the hard to obtain “Sally Holmes”, as well as “Iceberg” and “Just Joey” and many many more. Newer varieties, such as the coppery pink “Elle”, fragrant “Spirit of Peace”, “Violena”, “Red Intuition” and “Maggie T”which of course is a beautiful white rose.
For fans of David Austin roses we still have some varieties left, so don’t miss out on these stunning English roses.
Try planting Agapanthus “Black Pantha” with some of the Austin pink roses for a wonderful colour contrast.
Seedlings for spring and summer colour should be planted now, Aquilegia, Penstemon, Strawflower, English Daisy, Alyssum, Verbena, Primula, Poppy, Pansy and Snapdragon.
Water in with seaweed solution and keep them growing strongly with fortnightly applications of foliar fertiliser.
We also have bare rooted Liriope muscari, fantastic for borders, tough and colourful.
Echium Candicans has long showy swords of flowers in spring. Good for coastal and dry conditions, they will grow in sandy and poor soils however good quality soil will produce the best results.

Grown from seed each plant varies and will feature a single colour of either blue, mauve, lilac or white.
If you have not as yet divided perennials take the opportunity in late winter to lift and divide and they should make strong growth in early spring.
For bluer hydrangeas use hydrangea blueing compound this month and repeat again in September and October
Camellias can be trimmed as they finish flowering.

For a specimen tree in the garden it is difficult to surpass the weeping standards, whether placed beside a garden pond or pool, a garden statue or birdbath, as a feature in a parterre garden or simply placed in a sweep of lawn these graceful tree are spectacular whatever the season.
Choose from Weeping birch, Mulberry, Peach, Cherry and many other varieties.
For brilliant autumn foliage Pyrus ussuriensis, the Manchurian Pear, is a small to medium sized deciduous tree, which has a pyramidal shape. For a specimen tree or planted along a driveway or avenue they are most attractive.

Tree Lucerne. (Chamaecytisus palmensis)

Tree lucerne sometimes known as tagasaste, is a leguminous perennial shrub or small tree which is native to the Canary Islands.
The long drooping branches have grey/green trifoliate leaves and the flowers are white followed by seed pods.
Best suited to mild temperate or semi arid climates it is tough and drought resistant and because it is deep rooting is useful to help control saline soils and prevent soil erosion.
It will not tolerate poorly drained or water logged soils.
As a fodder crop it yields 10 tonnes per hectare of edible leaf and stem and makes good dual purpose fodder and windbreak plantings or fire retardant hedges.
Plants can be grazed or cut one year after planting to encourage a multi stemmed plant.
It is useful fodder for cattle, sheep, goats and pigs and is excellent in permaculture gardens for planting in chicken runs for chicken forage, or as a nectar source for beekeepers.
Foliage contains 17.22 percent crude protein and fresh regrowth about 25.29 percent crude protein, this provides high quality fodder which is best harvested during Summer and Autumn when regrowth is strong.
For those establishing a home woodlot it is an excellent dense firewood tree which produces a very hot fire.

In the native garden,

Brachysema lanceolatum (Swan River Pea) is a West Australian native which grows to 1.5m tall.
It is fast growing and hardy and is perfect for filling a bare spot in the garden. Leaves are dark green and the undersides are silvery contrasting beautifully with the scarlet flowers which appear in winter and spring and sometimes throughout the year.
Many grevilleas are flowering now, adaptable and easy to grow they have a long flowering period and attract nectar eating birds to the garden.
They vary in size from prostate ground covers, small to large shrubs and the largest is the striking Grevillea robusta the Silky oak.
Grevillea “Strawberry Sundae” which has pink toned flowers G.”Cherry Ripe has as the name suggests cherry coloured flowers, and G. Jubilee with bright orange flowers are all a great addition to the garden.
Correa “Little Cate’ has dainty pale pink bells very pretty in a cottage garden.
Leptospermun “Aphrodite” has deep pink flowers with a white centre and green eye, a very different and attractive leptospermum.
Hardenbergia Violacea “Mini Ha Ha” has deep violet pea shaped flowers in late winter and early spring, it grows in full sun to light shade and prefers well drained soil.
As`with most natives prune after flowering to maintain a bushy habit.
Some summer watering is necessary until established.

In the home orchard consider including some nut trees, most are high in calories, rich in fats and proteins and contain varying amounts of minerals, carbohydrate and vitamins as well as traces of essential elements such as selenium.
Edible tree nuts are found in most major climatic regions of the world with the exception of the arctic and Antarctic.
Because of their nutritional value interest has increased in producing nuts for food in modern day diets.

Almonds
Almonds grow into quite large trees, like a well drained soil, and should be winter pruned to encourage a low growth profile, and to develop as many branches on the tree as possible.
The variety “Brand’s Jordon” has very upright growth.
The first of the stone fruits to flower, they are susceptible to midwinter and early spring frosts which may kill the flowers.
Most almonds are self infertile and need two different cultivars for pollination, however there is one cultivar available which is self fertile.
Water your tree well after planting with a seaweed solution to encourage the roots to establish.
Harvest when the outside husk begins to split at the end of summer and store in a cool dry place.
Almonds supply B group vitamins, vitamin E as well as magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, folic acid, amino acids and protein.

Chestnuts
Chestnuts are attractive trees providing shade in summer and glorious autumn colour, large at maturity they respond well to pruning to reduce tree size.
They need well drained soil and will not tolerate water logging.
Nuts are enclosed in a prickly husk which are harvested when they fall from the tree.
They have a lower fat content than other nuts and contain protein, amino acids, vitamins E, C, and the B group as well as calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, iron, zinc and copper.
They also provide calcium, potassium, zinc and selenium.

Hazelnuts (Corylus avellana)
A bush or small tree, hazelnuts have both male and female flowers.
All species are self infertile therefore need another plant nearby to produce nuts.
Best in areas which have cold winters and cooler summers and a dry autumn during the harvest months.
They like well drained fertile soil and can be planted 3-4m apart or grown as a hedge.
Mulch well and provide summer watering when nuts are forming.
Moisture stress and strong winds are not well tolerated.
Rich in vitamin E, they also supply the B group vitamins, calcium and potassium, zinc and selenium.
Harvest when the nuts fall from the tree

Walnuts (Juglans spp)
Walnut trees require a warm summer and cool winter and deep well drained soil. In heavy clay soils they should be planted on a mound to ensure adequate drainage.
Water in well with seaweed fertilizer to encourage root formation.
High in fats and oil they provide phosphorus, calcium, potassium, vitamin A, C, E and the B group vitamins.
Harvest when the husks split from the shell or as they fall from the tree.
Still time to plant fruit trees so get in quickly before stock becomes depleted and the opportunity is lost until next year.

Spray all stone fruits with Bordeaux as buds begin to swell, this is probably the most important time to spray fruit.

Now is an excellent time to organize stocks of mulch in readiness for spring and the warmer months to follow.
Check stakes on trees and shrubs in preparation for the stronger winds at this time of the year.
A good time also to check irrigation systems are in good working order.

Gardeners have been heartened by the sight of puddles and the increased rain this month.
Rug up, put on the gum boots and like your plants enjoy the winter weather.

Marg and the team at Meredith Nursery.

Meredith Nursery June Newsletter

Winter in the garden is never boring ,with so many tasks to be done, bare root planting, pruning and enjoying the crisp mornings and evenings.
It is a great time to reorganise the garden, plant a new`rose, an ornamental tree, fruit tree, or berries.
Now is a good time to construct retaining walls or paths and to organize drainage pipes or irrigation systems for summer.
Make sure pruning tools are sharp and in good working order and invest in strong gloves before you tackle the roses.
Enjoy the special fragrances in the winter garden and the delicate beauty of winter flowers.

In the vegetable patch continue to foliar fertilize on a fortnightly basis to keep plants growing during the shortest coldest days of winter.
Plant broad beans and early peas and seedlings of broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower.

Start to harvest late summer plantings of broccoli and cauliflower, leave broccoli plants and they will provide you with a second smaller harvest.

Plant long keeping onions now, also chives, shallots and tree onions.
If you have not planted garlic yet there is still time for a quick planting.
Plant asparagus crowns, strawberries, rhubarb, Jerusalem artichokes and globe artichokes.
Start preparing beds for spring planting, dig in green manure and sheep manure ready for corn and tomatoes in spring.
Growing vegetables and fruits has become increasingly popular as more people have concerns about the origins of their food and the huge expenses and energy costs involved in production and transportation.
A large quantity of fresh nutritious food can be harvested from quite a small plot, or even from pots in a sunny courtyard.

In the ornamental garden trim away old leaves on hellabores to allow new growth to emerge and to reveal beautiful winter blooms, early jonquils and daffodils are starting to flower as well as fragrant violets, cheiranthus (wallflower) and daphne.
Winter is an excellent time to divide clumps of agapanthus which have become too large.
Dig up the clump and place it where it can be broken into smaller plants with a sharp spade or knife.
Pull apart with the hands and replant in soil enriched with organic matter.
Tree dahlias can now be cut to the ground, cut stems into 40cm lengths with about three nodes and replant to increase your stock.
The superb white trunks of silver birch are perfect against the backdrop of leaden winter skies and many of the malus (crabapple) retain their jewel coloured fruits on bare branches into winter
Prune hydrangeas, cut back stems that had flowers last summer down to two buds close to the base of the plant, stems which have not flowered should be left unpruned.
Lagerstroemia (crepe myrtle) flowers on new season’s growth so prune back in winter by cutting off about one third of this years growth.
Plant calendula, stocks, primula, cineraria and pansies and keep them growing strongly with a fortnightly dose of liquid fertilizer.
For midwinter to spring colour the flowering apricots are hard to beat, Prunus mume has tightly packed flowers along the stem in a delicate pink.

Spring flowering deciduous plants should not be pruned until flowering finishes, this allows new growth on which the next season’s flowers develop.
Never prune these plants in winter, the spring flower display will be lost.
Plants such as fuchsias or hibiscus, which are not frost tolerant, should not be pruneduntil September.
Camellias are starting to bloom and this is the best time to choose one for your garden.
They have proven to be quite drought tolerant and they are one of the stars of the winter to spring garden.
Best suited to a semi shaded position, they enjoy soil which has leaf litter or other organic matter incorporated, add some compost and they will thrive.
Good drainage is essential, so build up beds if this is a problem.
Mulching is important as they are shallow rooted plants.
Start to feed established camellias this month with compost and blood and bone.

In the native garden the golden balls of the winter flowering wattles look superb, try Acacia boormanii (Snowy River wattle) which grows 3-4 m has grey foliage and yellow flowers.
Acacia drummondii has golden flowers and grows 1-1.5m.
Acacia longifolia (Sallow wattle) is a tough plant 3-8m high, good for screening, bright yellow flowers.
Acacia podalyriifolia (Mount Morgan wattle is a most attractive plant with silver leaves and masses of golden flowers. To 4-5m .
Acacia retinodes (Wirilda) is a small tree 4-7m which has pale yellow flowers for most of the year.
Correas are putting on a wonderful display at the moment, Correa alba in white and pink has star shaped flowers and the tiny red bells of Correa reflexa are a delight both to the gardener and the native birds.
We have a huge range of grevilleas to choose from, groundcovers to large shrubs, hardy and bird attracting.

Growing Grapes
Table grapes are easy to grow and as well as providing delicious fruit can be trained to ramble over pergolas and fences creating cool leafy shade in summer.
Vines grow rapidly and because they are deciduous they are useful in a western or northern situation, blocking the summer sun and letting light and warmth in during winter.
Vines grow best in areas which have cool wet winters and warm summers with low rainfall.
Grapevines can withstand very low temperatures when they are dormant, however frost during budburst in early spring can be devastating, so avoid low lying areas and frost pockets when choosing a site.
Vines are adaptable and will grow in most soils which are well drained, friable and at least 60cm deep.
Soils with high salinity can restrict growth and should be avoided.
Acid soils which decrease the availability of most plant nutrients can affect the vigour of vines and a small amount of lime or dolomite will assist in this.
Dig a planting hole which is big enough for the root system of the young vine.
Trim any overlong roots to 10-15cms and prune top growth back to two buds.
Do not allow the vine to dry out before planting and an overnight soak in water to which a little seaweed has been added is helpful.
Plant your vine with roots spread out and ensure the union (where rootstock and selected variety have been joined) is above soil level. Backfill with soil, make a slight basin around the plant and water well.
Weed control is important as weeds compete for nutrients and moisture, mulching will help to retain moisture and prevent weed infestation.
By the end of the first winter your vine will have produced a number of woody canes, select the most upright of these and remove the others. Remove all but the first two buds. Attach a training string or stake and attach to your trellis, this will help to establish a straight sturdy trunk from which two arms can be trained going in opposite directions along a wire or support.
If you wish to grow your vines on a pergola, train your trunk to pergola height then train the arms along the structure.
Each bud on your vine has the potential to produce a shoot and a bunch or two of fruit next spring, however as it is normal for a vine to produce hundreds of buds pruning is necessary not only to maintain the shape of your vine but to reduce the the number of shoots and fruits and thereby improve the quality of the fruit.
Watering is best done at ground level, this reduces the risk of fungal disease and splitting of fruit, keep moisture levels high in the month before flowering and for 3-4 weeks following flowering.
Avoid total dryness as berries ripen but do not keep soil very wet during this time to avoid fruit splitting and promote maturity.
The major pests are light brown apple moth, vine moth and leaf blister mite (Erinose mite) however most of these pests cause only minor damage in the home garden situation even when they are not controlled.
Light brown apple moth and Vine moth lay eggs on the leaves and fruit and the emerging caterpillars feed on young flowers and berries or the leaves of the vine.
Sprays of Bacillus thuringiensis will easily control both these pests and is a “natural” non chemical solution to this problem.
The microscopic Grape leaf blister mite (Erinose mite) forms blisters on the young leaves and feeding by the mite causes leaves to expand creating a “bubble’ in the leaf. Damage is usually minor. Sulphur sprays will control this mite
Powdery mildew can cause serious damage to your grapes, it is a dry weather disease and develops during mild weather in late spring, early summer and autumn.
Vines which are shaded or have poor airflow are most susceptible.
The appearance of small yellow-green spots on the upper surface of the leaves is followed by a white to ash-grey powder on the upper or lower surface of the leaves.
Leaves, flowers, stalks and shoots can become infected.
Application of a wettable sulphur spray at 2, 4 and 6 weeks from budburst should ensure protection, it is important to start spraying before the disease becomes established.
We have a huge selection of ornamental, fruit and nut trees in the nursery at the moment so get in while we still have a good range from which to make your selection.
We will be able to advise you on compatible varieties for cross pollination to ensure a good crop of fruit.
A Word About Phylloxera…..
Phylloxera is a root dwelling aphid which has had a devastating effect on vineyards world wide.
This pest exists in parts of north eastern Victoria and south eastern New South Wales and some areas of Sydney and Brisbane.
Grape vines should not be taken from these areas.

Kiwi fruit should be pruned early in July to prevent sap bleeding from the cuts.
Simply remove any vines that have borne fruit, leaving a replacement shoot.

Pruning Roses.

Before you begin the task of pruning your roses ensure that your secateurs and pruning saw are sharp and in good order.
Gloves are a must as many roses have vicious thorns and you will need to grasp them as you cut.
Do not prune your roses too early, from the middle of July is soon enough, roses forced into early growth are susceptible to frost damage during winter.
1. Remove all twiggy growth, that is any growth which is less than pencil thickness, unless you are pruning small floribunda or miniature roses.
2. Remove any dead wood or wood in which dieback is present. Die back is a blackening in the centre of the stem which must be removed below the affected area in order to prevent loss of the entire stem.
3. Remove any branches which are crossing or rubbing against other branches.
4. If you are unsure it is better to leave the wood on the bush, you can always remove it later when growth develops and it becomes obvious whether it should be retained or not.
5. Bushes can be left at this stage, however though they will bloom profusely blooms will be smaller and short stemmed.
6. Moderate pruning requires that about ten canes are left on the bush. Prune canes back about one third to an outward facing bud or eye. When deciding which canes to remove choose the oldest (usually grey) canes first retaining young and healthy canes. Make you cut at about 45 degree angle about ¼ inch above a swelling bud eye.
7. Severe pruning leaves fewer canes per bush which are often cut down to about 1foot.
8. When pruning is complete it is vital to clean up all prunings, foliage twigs and canes and either burn or dispose of them in garbage.
9. Spray bushes and ground beneath them with lime sulphur to minimise the risk of fungal disease.

Species and Once Blooming Old Roses.
1. Remove any dead or twiggy growth regardless of the season.
2. Prune immediately after flowering to encourage new growth on which next season’s flowers will blossom.

Climbing Roses
1. Climbing roses require little pruning for the first few years of growth.
2. Once canes develop it is important to train them to grow in a horizontal position. Climbers which are not trained in this way will flower only at the top of the cane, when grown with their tips pointed downward they will flower all along the length of the cane.
3. Remove any dead or twiggy growth.
4. Shorten canes to keep growth within bounds.
5. Trim back the laterals i.e. the stems which grow from the main canes leaving 2 or 3 eyebuds.

Ramblers.
1. Rambling roses generally blossom once during the season`and as they are rampant growers need only older basal growth removed after flowering, this does not include the Banksia roses which are usually left unpruned.

Weeping Standard Roses.
1. Do not prune weeping standards too severely or your plant will become too bushy.
2. Cut back tips and thin growth if necessary.

Standard Roses.
1. Prune standard roses as for bush roses in a vase shape taking care to ensure your standard does not become top heavy.
2. Prune to an outward facing bud as it is important to keep the head of your standard shapely.

Enjoy the rain, enjoy the garden, more news and plants next month,

Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery.

How to Grow Small Fruit

Growing Small Fruits

Strawberries.
Strawberries like a fertile soil which has had plenty of organic matter added, moisture and good drainage are essential as their root system is quite small.
Sensitive to frost they are easily protected by a layer of straw during winter.

Weeds can be a problem so prepare your bed carefully and mulch to prevent weeds and to keep fruit clean. Pine needles are an excellent mulch for strawberries.
Strawberries are prone to viruses which build up over time so it is best to replace your plants every three years with certified virus free plants
Home grown strawberries which are allowed to ripen on the bush are sweet and delicious and packed with Vitamin C.
Birds appreciate strawberries as much as we do so some protection is necessary.
Try strawberries sprinkled with a little balsamic vinegar and caster sugar. Delicious!

Bush Berries

Gooseberries.
Gooseberries grow on small bushes which are frost tolerant and quite happy in areas where they receive only morning sun, not as popular as they once were, they are still an excellent berry for those who enjoy making home preserves and jams.
Unripe berries are best for preserving, however if you wish to eat them fresh wait until they develop colour or they will be quite sour.

Blueberries.
Expensive to buy, these delicious berries are excellent in the home food garden, turn beautiful shades of red and orange in autumn and have delicate white or pink flowers in spring. High in antioxidents and vitamin C, blueberries are now regarded as one of the so-called “super foods” and they are well worth a little effort to supply their needs.

Blueberries enjoy an acid soil which must be well drained, constantly moist and have high levels of organic matter.
Mulch with an acidifying mulch such as semi rotted pine needles or oak leaves.
Blueberries enjoy a sunny spot with shelter from hot winds, they make excellent tub specimens planted into a potting mix suitable for their relatives the rhododendrens.
Pick when the berry is completely blue as they do not continue to ripen once picked.
Do not allow your bushes to fruit for the first two years, once established the stems will fruit for up to four years when they can be cut out at ground level and new stems encouraged.

Cane Berries.

A delicate fruit which needs to be picked at perfect ripeness to be fully appreciated.
These berries bring a premium price on the supermarket shelves however as they are picked firm for transportation they do not have the delicacy and sweetness of home grown berries.

Cane berries grow best in temperate to cool areas, and require well drained acid soil into which plenty of organic matter has been incorporated. Eradicate any perennial weeds as it will be almost impossible to remove them once your berries have been planted.
Mulching is essential to retain moisture in the soil and prevent reinfestation with weeds.
Plant berries about 30cm apart and prune the young canes back to about 20cm high.
All cane berries fruit on 2 year old canes with the exception of autumn fruiting raspberries.
Canes must be trained on a trellis and the best method is two to three wires at about 50-70 cm intervals which are stretched between two sturdy posts.
Birds can be a problem when growing cane fruits and it is best to net the trellis when your berries start to ripen.

Raspberries

Pruning can be done in summer or winter, simply remove the two year old canes which have fruited and bundle the new canes together in groups of three and tie them to the trellis.

For autumn fruiting raspberries prune out the canes which have fruited and tie the new canes as for other raspberries. Fruit will form on the tips of the new canes, cut back just below the fruit after the autumn harvest and you have the basis for next year’s crop.
Blackberries have become such a problem in many rural areas that we would never suggest planting them, however there are various blackberry and raspberry hybrids which it is quite safe to plant and which provide delicious berries.

Boysenberry
A vigorous hybrid with purplish fruit which is sweet and juicy. Fruit is harvested in December-January.

Youngberry
Quite similar to the Boysenberry, however berries are smaller and shinier and are often sweeter.
Harvest is about two weeks earlier than the boysenberry.

Loganberry
Thornless canes, and berries which turn deep purplish red when ripe.
Allow to ripen on the vine to develop the rich flavour and sweetness.
The loganberry makes excellent jam and can be harvested from November-January.

Silvanberry
As the name suggests this is a Victorian berry that fruits over a long period.
A good berry for those who require a longer fruiting period.
The harvest is December-February.

Marionberry
A delicate berry which is not as vigorous as the Boysonberry but is considered to be
superior in flavour.
The harvest is in December-January.

Currants.
Red, White and Black currants are old fashioned fruits which are enjoying a
resurgence in popularity. They have a tart flavour, but sweeten when ripe, making them perfect for sauce or mixing with some of the berry fruits in desserts where they contribute rich colours and flavours. High in pectin they make excellent jellies and jams.
Red and white currants are actually the same plant, the white currant is somewhat sweeter but lacks the levels of antioxidants which are found in red currants.
Black currants have high levels of antioxidants, however their flavour improved if they are cooked with sugar and they make delicious jams and jellies.
Currants enjoy fertile well drained soil rich in organic matter with a side dressing of blood and bone and some extra potash.
They will produce well in areas which have only morning sun and flower and fruit before the heat of summer arrives.
Mulch well to conserve moisture and some irrigation during summer will help to keep them productive.
Red and white currants produce fruit on stems which are two to three years old.
Remove the old four year old stems each year in late winter.
Black currants fruit on young wood of one to two years old so prune out any wood older than two years.

Jostaberries
Pronounced “Yostaberry”, this fruit is a cross between a blackcurrant and a gooseberry, they are resistant to mildew, free of spines and need little pruning.
Bushes grow to around 1.5 to 2m tall and nedd about 2m between them The large juicy fruit are ripe December-January and intermediate in size between a blackcurrant and a gooseberry.
Plant in rich well drained soil in a site protected from strong winds.
They are frost tolerant and can be planted in full sun.
Mulch well and include well rotted compost, fertilize in spring with blood and bone and keep moist during the hottest months.
They can be eaten fresh or added to fruit salad, used in desserts, and make excellent jam.They are high in vitamin C and can be frozen like most berries for out of season use.

Passionfruit
Passionfruit Big Boppa is a new passionfruit which bears very large, sweet, golden fruit on a hardy vigorous vine. A sunny position in moist well drained soil and a good quality fertilizer high in potassium will give great results.
Mulch well to conserve moisture.
Perfect for a fence , trellis or pergola.

Prepare for fruit plantings as soon as possible, dig in plenty of well decomposed organic matter and build up soil if drainage is a problem.

Why Would I Make Compost?

Compost Reasons for making Compost. Sustainable gardening seeks to provide the best conditions for optimum plant health with the smallest possible impact on the environment. The plants in our gardens need a constant supply of nutrients in order to grow and provide us with a pleasant environment in which to live, or nutritious food to eat. One of the cheapest and most environmentally sound ways of achieving this is by recycling household and garden waste to make compost. When we set out to do this we are decreasing the amount of waste we send to council tips and landfill and fertilizing our gardens at the same time. Compost is a balanced way of enriching and improving the health of your soil and encouraging the growth of strong, healthy, disease resistant plants. What is Compost. Compost is quite simply a method of speeding up the process which nature uses to make humus on the forest floor, where the constant renewal of the leaf layer and the shade created by the forest canopy, provides the moist conditions required by the microorganisms necessary for the breakdown of organic matter. Decomposition is the result of digestion and redigestion by a complex ecology of microorganisms, insects and worms which require both air and moisture to transform crude vegetation into humus. Humus is a very important form of decomposed organic matter, a complex mixture of substances and the last stage of the decomposition of organic matter. The soil chemistry of humus varies according to the types of organic matter, the soil organisms involved and the environmental conditions involved in humification. Brown or black in colour it has a light crumbly texture when dry, holds several times its own weight in water when wet and has a fresh “earthy” smell. Temperature fluctuations in the soil are relatively small compared to atmospheric changes and the soil animals are rapidly killed by dry conditions. Mulching in summer gives protection to soil life and improves the viability of soil. Most soil animals are oxygen breathers and cannot live in poorly drained and compacted soil. Making Compost. Compost can be made in heaps, wooden bins, plastic bins or compost tumblers, much depends on your proximity to neighbours, the size of your garden and the amount of compost you require. Compost can be made aerobically (with air) or anaerobically (without air). The most popular method of making compost is aerobic. Keep pets away, pets and compost don’t mix. Don’t add perennial weeds or seeds, or plant residue which is diseased. Meat and bones become smelly and attract flies and rodents. Glossy paper has chemicals in it and is best avoided, newspaper, shredded or torn is fine. Worms dislike onions and garlic. Materials for Compost. Most average households accumulate enough organic materials to make sufficient compost to supply garden needs. The most important factor is to balance the ingredients in your heap, that is the carbon/nitrogen ratio. High carbon materials are the dry, woody materials and the high nitrogen materials are wet and green. The microbes in your compost heap need a ratio of about 30 carbon to 1 nitrogen in order make body mass and multiply. A word about some common materials… Weeds… when green provide nitrogen Banana skins…rich in phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen Leaves…low in nitrogen, rich in minerals, slow to decompose unless shredded or ground with a lawnmower. Hair… high in nitrogen, feathers have similar qualities. Dust from the vacuum cleaner Grass clippings…high in nitrogen, need to be mixed with leaves or straw. Kitchen garbage facilitates the decomposition of other materials. Animal manure…fresh manure contains large amounts of active digestive enzymes and cellulose decomposing bacteria, which speed up heating and decomposition. Blood and bone…high in nitrogen, speeds up decomposition Lime or Dolomite…prevents odours, can speed the decomposition process. Azobacteria, that fix nitrogen in the compost are dependant on the availability of calcium. Calcium is an important soil nutrient essential to the formation of plant and animal protein, however if your soil is very alkaline then it is not necessary to add lime or dolomite to your compost. Lucerne hay… lucerne is a perennial legume which draws on subsoil minerals. Pea straw, hay and straw….nitrogen and carbon. Coffee grounds…nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, attract worms and prevent odour. Building the Heap. Materials available for compost will vary in most backyard situations however it is important to remember the nitrogen/carbon balance if you wish to produce good compost. The smaller the particles in your heap the quicker the decomposition, you can use a lawn mower to chop your materials or use a garden mulcher. You can still make compost without these gadgets it will just take a little longer! The correct moisture level in your heap is very important, too wet and you will have foul odours and a slimy heap, too dry and bacteria and fungi die, and decomposition will come to a halt. Compost with the correct amount of moisture should feel very damp when squeezed but you should not be able to extract much moisture. Turning the heap regularly supplies oxygen for the aerobic bacteria and hastens decomposition, the outer layers are distributed through the heap, the materials which have slumped and softened are fluffed up and recharged with air. If you cannot turn your compost do not despair you can still make compost without turning your heap it will just happen more slowly. If your pile has dried out turning and watering the layers will start the process of decomposition again. It is important to cover and protect your heap from heavy rain. A wet slimy heap quickly becomes airless and chilled and valuable nutrients can leach away. The addition of carbon materials throughout the heap will ensure the even distribution of moisture and get your heap going again. The best size for your compost heap is 1.5m wide and 1.5m long and at least 1.5m high. Smaller heaps will not heat up as well with the exception of the compost tumbler which is a rotating drum that can be turned frequently thus improving aeration and speeding up the process of decomposition. It is best for making small “one off” batches. Probably the best method is to have at least two bins one filled and heating and another gathering material ready for building. Plastic compost bins while not very large are best suited to people in urban situations, however decomposition can take a long time if the C/N ratio is not correct, or material comprises large resistant material like stalks and prunings. Heaps should be open at the base to enable worms and other soil life into your heap. Place some large stalks at the base to ensure airflow build your heap in layers using your high nitrogen and carbon materials and moisten between additions if your material is too dry. Finished compost can be applied directly to the soil, be sure to cover with mulch to protect your valuable humus. VISIT THE NURSERY SITE TO SEE A COMPOST HOW TO VIDEO

Meredith Nursery Newsletter April 2008

Meredith Nursery Newsletter – April 2008 Vol 2 No 3 Welcome to the April newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have. In this Issue Vegie patch Ornamental garden Native garden Orchard Deciduous trees Compost Making compost Compost materials Building a compost heap VISIT THE NURSERY APRIL April in the garden and we have had some rain, the garden has revived after the summer heat, the mornings are becoming crisp and wonderful autumn colours are emerging, what a great time to get out in the garden and plan some changes, plant evergreen trees and shrubs and prepare the garden for winter and bare root plantings. Autumn is a great time to tidy up the garden, reinvigorate a tired lawn, empty compost bins, and use all that garden refuse and abundant autumn leaves to start another batch for spring planting. In the vegetable patch plant seedlings of broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, beetroot, leeks, lettuce and spinach, sow seeds of broad beans, climbing and dwarf peas, kohl rabi and turnips. Keep these growing strongly with fortnightly applications of liquid manure to ensure maximum growth before the shorter days and colder temperatures of winter. Watch for slugs and snails which attack your tender seedlings at this time of the year, a quick patrol in the garden after dark with a torch is an excellent way of disposing of these pests. Snail pellets are effective but choose an environmentally friendly variety which will not harm pets and wildlife. If you haven’t already done so plant a green manure crop such as broad beans, peas, or lupins. Dig this into the garden in late winter or early spring and you will astounded at the difference it will make to your soil. Harvest pumpkins with the stalk intact if you wish to store them as this will prevent spores entering and rotting your long keeping pumpkins. Remove spent vegetable stalks and vines to the compost heap. Dig in compost and cover beds with mulch if you do not intend to plant them up immediately, this prevents weed infestation and loss of nutrients. In the ornamental garden trim back tired summer foliage on hellebores, lavenders and daisies. Plant late winter and spring flowering annuals, pansies, primula, cornflower, hollyhock, cineraria, sweet peas, nigella and ageratum. Perennials such as scabiosa, wallflower, aquilegia, carnation and dianthus will establish well if planted now. Overgrown and “woody” perennials will benefit from lifting, dividing and replanting now, it is a good way to increase your plants and promote flowering. Plant spring flowering bulbs in attractive pots to brighten doorways and patios in early spring. Now is a perfect time to move any plants you wish to relocate and to plant new evergreen trees and shrubs. They will have time to settle in and establish strong root systems before next summer. For a tidy appearance over winter clip box and other hedges . Now is an excellent time to establish a hedge and once again good soil preparation is the key to success. Dig the strip to be planted and eradicate any perennial weeds. Add some compost or well rotted manure and a balanced fertilizer. If the site is prone to drying out in summer add some water storing crystals. Planting should be based on the eventual size and spread of the shrub and can be formal or informal. If a formal appearance is required choose a species that will withstand regular clipping. To rejuvenate a lawn which is looking tired push the prongs of a garden fork into the soil at regular intervals then fertilize with blood and bone. Top dress with a layer of compost or sandy loam, using the back of a rake to rub it into the grass. In the home orchard remove all diseased and mummified fruit from trees and the ground beneath. Remove any weeds which have grown under fruit trees, they will rob your trees of nutrients and moisture. Mulch well to prevent reinfestation. Spray Bordeaux on peaches and nectarines for leaf curl. Prepare soil for bare root planting of new fruit trees in winter, dig in some compost and well rotted manure, mulch to conserve nutrients and moisture. For those with limited space the new dwarf form of the Meyer lemon “Lot’s A’Lemons” has sweet scented white flowers, an abundance of full sized fruit and grows well in either pots or garden. If you are planning on planting fruit trees, a new garden, a rose garden or deciduous plantings, bare root season is only 10-12 weeks away. We are happy to take orders and discuss your needs with you. If you would like to download either bare rooted and/or tubestock catalogues please click here and select as you please. In the native garden autumn is a perfect time to plant, this allows time for natives to become well established before the heat of summer is upon us again. Shrubs to plant include callistemon, melaleuca, hakea, grevillea, correa and larger acacias and eucalypts. Deciduous trees are putting on a magnificent autumn display, with so many beautiful trees now available to choose from there is a tree for every garden whether large or small. For red/pink foliage the Lipstick maple Acer rubrum “October Glory” grows to 12m high, has green leaves on red leaf stalks and colours to a deep pink/red in autumn. The well loved Claret ash, Fraxinus angustifolia “Raywood” has dark green foliage in spring and summer and deep red autumn colour. It likes a fertile soil and some summer watering and like the Lipstick maple tolerates warmer areas. Acer platanoides the Norway maple is one for the larger garden growing to 25m it has large leaves which turn red, orange and yellow tones in autumn. Also for the larger garden the Scarlet oak Quercus coccinea grows to 24m and lives up to its name with a brilliant scarlet display. The Golden elm Ulmus procera and the Tulip tree, Lirodendron tulipifera, both put on glowing golden foliage in autumn. A tree for the smaller garden, the “Forest Pansy” Cercis Canadensis is a beauty, it has heart shaped purple leaves `which turn red in autumn. In spring it produces an abundance of rose/pink flowers. Height is about 3.5m. Often overlooked, the Crabapples, (Malus) proved themselves to be tough and hardy during the recent drought, copper and orange foliage in autumn is followed by a beautiful display of blossom in spring and attractive small fruit in summer. The many varieties of ornamental pear (Pyrus) are also tough and undemanding plants which have low water needs once established. Foliage is red and purple in autumn and heights vary from 4-10m depending on the variety. The Crepe Myrtle, Lagerstroemia`indica is very popular for the wonderful display of flowers in shades of pink, rose pinks and deep mauves which blend so well with the other colours in the summer garden and is a blaze if colour again in autumn when it produces glowing shades of red and orange. Height is 4m. These are just a few of the many beautiful trees available and we are always happy to help you choose the most suitable tree for your needs. A well placed deciduous tree can protect our homes from the fierce heat of summer, and allow sunlight to penetrate and warm us in winter. Well that’s it for this month; enjoy the autumn sunshine and the rain. Happy gardening Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery. TOP

Meredith Nursery Newsletter March 2008

Meredith Nursery Newsletter – March 2008

Vol 2 No 2

Welcome to the March newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

In this Issue Barwon Water WATERSECURE program Jobs for the ornamental garden Hibiscus Pruning climbing roses Bare-rooted and Catalogue Home Orchard Native Garden

Visit the Nursery

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March The first month of Autumn has been hot and very dry so it is important to keep mulching to conserve moisture and prevent plants becoming stressed. New plantings, pot plants and hanging baskets will benefit from water storing crystals at planting time and to help to keep roots damp between waterings. The easing of water restrictions has made gardening a little easier this year and I think most of us have realised that the huge amounts of water we once thought necessary for successful gardening no longer hold true. More sustainable plantings and practices enable us to continue to enjoy our gardens without guilt. Water storing crystals absorb water and swell to form a reservoir for plants, they re -expand with each watering and last for a long time in the soil. Soil wetter granules have a different function, they work by helping water to penetrate soil and reduce wasteful runoff. The application of a layer of organic mulch has a similar action, while having the added advantage of adding humus to the soil. The use of soil wetters can be beneficial when applied to bare soils before application of a layer of mulch. It is important to remember that nature abhors a vacuum and will attempt to cover bare soil with weeds if we neglect to mulch. The importance of organic matter in the soil and its function in soil chemistry and the water holding capacity of the soil can not be overstated. For those who missed it the February newsletter contained some discussion of soil, how to recognize your soil type and how to correct soil problems. Following on this theme next month we will be addressing the subject of compost and the various techniques and methods used to make this valuable soil conditioner and fertilizer. For those of our readers who live within the Barwon Water region talk to us about the Barwon Water WATERSECURE program. This program is available to Barwon Water customers only and provides a subsidised garden assessment costing forty dollars. A trained horticulturist will visit your property to: Review garden design and plant zoning Assess plant selection and plant health Assess soil type and health and its ability to retain water Provide a watering schedule detailing how long, and how often, to water specific sections of your garden. Provide helpful tools such as a rain gauge and tap timer, and advise how to determine when to water. Provide tips on maintaining a healthy garden. Identify if the propery is suitable for grey water use. Suggest an appropriate rainwater tank size. Provide a personalised report containing technical information and recommendations. For more information and to organise an assessment contact: Meredith Nursery Ph:52861397 Top Now is the time to prepare soil for bare root plantings of roses, fruit trees and other ornamentals. A little time spent now will ensure the best possible start for your new plantings and ensure vigorous growth in Spring. Take a walk around your garden and observe any bare spots or plantings which have not been successful, now is an excellent time to plan changes to the garden and prepare for new plantings. Be ruthless with non performing plants, choose something better suited to the position, availability of water, or your climate, we are always happy to offer suggestions or discuss this with you. If you are interested in more autumn colour now is the time to look around your neighbourhood for the colours which appeal to you. Get your orders in early to avoid disappointment. The 2008 Bare rooted and tubestock catalogues are available for down load HERE. In the ornamental garden divide daffodils and jonquils which have been in the same spot for some time and they will flower well in Spring. Plant bulbs no less than three times as deep as the bulb is wide. Fuchsias which are looking weary and a bit woody after Summer should be pruned now. A light trim will ensure a display of flowers in May. Sweet peas can be sown from March onwards, add 1-2 cups of lime per sqm to acid soils, plus compost and manure. Apply a liquid fertilizer fortnightly. Plant Ageratum, alyssum, aquilegia, cineraria, cornflower, foxglove, delphinium, hollyhock, lobelia, pansy, polyanthus, poppy, primula, stock and wallflower. Roses benefit now from a cupful of a complete fertilizer, take time to read the N:P:K ratio on the packet and choose the one which is higher in potash (K) content. Top up with mulch or manure, water deeply and enjoy the autumn roses. If you have roses which are particularly susceptible to fungal disease give each bush a dessertspoon of sulphate of potash in autumn, this thickens the cell walls of the plant, promotes stronger stems and increases resistance to disease. Now is the time to prune the winter flowering roses “Lorraine Lee” and “Nancy Haywood”. Deadhead any roses which have finished their second flush and many will continue to flower into June. A short video showing how to dead head roses is available HERE We have had some queries about climbing roses which flower only on the top of the canes. These roses bloom to their greatest potential when their canes are horizontal and a fence, or similar support, is necessary so they can be tied in a fan shape. All the lateral growths which come off the main canes are the bloom bearing laterals and should be retained, simply trim them back to the third or fourth bud when pruning in winter. More detail to come on roses in the May newsletter. Hibiscus are looking wonderful at the moment, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis “Double Johnsonii” is a medium sized evergreen shrub with glossy dark green leaves, flowers are double, apricot coloured with a red centre. Hibiscus rosa sinensis “Isobel Beard” has striking pinky lavender blooms with a red centre, they give a wonderful tropical air to the garden. Lavenders and daisies can be given a light prune now to promote new growth and flowers. Pelargoniums and geraniums should be cut back now; this allows them to make good growth before the cold weather arrives. Sedum “Autumn Joy” is a blaze of colour in gardens at the moment as the pinkish-red flowers gradually become a darker red. If you have a lack of colour in your garden at this time of the year consider the crepe myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica, they are looking beautiful in many gardens at the moment and come in a range of attractive shades as well as white. Agapanthus should have spent flower heads removed now to prevent them setting seed and becoming environmental weeds. For those who would like a more sustainable substitute there are many tufting plants and native grasses which add year round interest to the garden. Patersonia or the native iris is a pretty little clumper with an attractive three petalled purple flower; they do prefer some summer watering. Flax-lilies (Dianella spp.) are tough plants which form attractive clumps and have beautiful blue flowers in spring, followed by purple berries. A close relative of the grass tree (Xanthorrhoea sp.) the Mat- rushes are happy in a dry or wet situation, they vary in size from less than 10cm to a metre in height, are ideal for steep banks, mass plantings, pots or borders. If you are looking for and unusual feature tree the Dawn Redwood “Metasequoia glyptostroboides” is a fast growing, tall, pyramidal tree with soft pale green foliage that turns a spectacular russet brown in autumn. It prefers a moist well drained soil rich in organic matter. Mulch well to conserve moisture. Top In the home orchard be scrupulous about the removal of spoiled and fallen fruit. Codling moth (Cydia pomonella) is a serious pest which affects apples, quinces and pears. It occurs throughout southern Australia and is very difficult to control. The larva is cream coloured and has a brown head. The female moth lives for two weeks and lays small white eggs on the leaves of the tree. Eggs take between five days to two weeks to hatch and enter the apple at the blossom end. When fully grown the caterpillars tunnel out of the fruit and spin cocoons in crevices in the bark or around the base of the tree. The life cycle is complete in about sixty days so it is possible to have several generations within the same year. Fruit which falls should be destroyed by burning, if this is not possible, place the fruit in sealed plastic bags and dispose of in garbage. Heat and fermentation should kill the larvae. Inspect the bark and any crevices on the tree and dispose of any grubs you find. Wrap strips of Hessian or corrugated cardboard around the trunks of trees to catch larvae as they make their way down the tree trunk in spring and summer. Grease bands applied to the trunks of apples pears and quince helps to trap the females which crawl up the trunk to lay eggs. Inspect and destroy the wingless moths. Fowls which are allowed to free range in the home orchard will control many of the caterpillars and prevent damage. Ensure that mulches do not touch the base of your trees and shrubs as this can be an entry point for disease. Keep strawberries moist and renew mulch, next year’s flower buds are forming now. Feed lemon trees with a citrus fertilizer, water well before and after fertilizing. Get in early when ordering new season stock, new or popular varieties are often in great demand. Download Catalogue In the home vegetable patch plant tree onions, shallots and garlic. Divide and replant clumps of chives and garlic chives. Keep a close watch on brassicas for caterpillars; check the undersides of leaves particularly if you have white butterflies in the garden. Water plants with liquid fertilizer every two weeks to keep them growing strongly. Plant beetroot, broad beans, endive, silver beet, brown and white onions, spinach, turnips, lettuce, cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage. It is not too late to plant another sowing of carrots and peas, keep them growing strongly before the weather becomes cold. Bare patches of ground in the vegetable patch can be sown with green manure to be dug in early in the spring. Top In the native garden trim kangaroo paws which have finished flowering to encourage new growth and stronger flowers. Cut everything off at ground level leaving only about 5cm of foliage, apply some slow release fertilizer for native plants, water deeply and they will reward you with a beautiful display in spring. Bracteantha bracteata is a golden flowered everlasting daisy which enjoys a free draining soil in sun or part shade, trim the spent flower heads to encourage further flowers and this native daisy will produce year round colour in frost free conditions. Leptospermum “Little Bun” is a small dense mounding shrub to 45cm high and 1m wide with soft lemon scented foliage. A profusion of lime-cream flowers covers the foliage in late spring and summer. It is excellent for insect foraging birds such as scrub wrens. Grows easily on most sites. Leptospermum “Kiwi” is another hardy, low growing shrub to 50cm high and 1m wide. Reddish-pink flowers are borne in spring against burgundy-purple foliage which ages to dark green, it tolerates most soil conditions and makes an ideal low hedge. Correa “Win’s Wonder” is a small to medium shrub with attractive green and gold foliage. A form of Correa “mannii” it has deep pinky red flowers in winter and early spring. Growth is to 1.5m high and1.2m wide and it tolerates extended dry conditions. Soft grey foliage with a silvery variegation is a feature of Westringia “Smokie” which flowers for most of the year. An excellent screen or hedge plant,it can also be used for topiary and looks terrific in Mediterranean style gardens with lavenders and rosemary. For spectacular flowers it is difficult to surpass Grevillea “Robyn Gordon”, a small to medium shrub to 2m tall and 3m wide with bright green new leaves. Leaves are divided, about 20cm long and fernlike and it flowers for most of the year. Enjoy the milder temperatures which are coming our way, get out in the garden and enjoy the colours of autumn, the crisp mornings and a new gardening year. Happy gardening Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery. TOP

The Soil in Your Garden

The Soil in your Garden.

As summer fades and we enter into autumn and winter planting it is probably an excellent time to consider the soil in your garden and its role in the success or failure of your plants.
It is essential to the success of your garden that you understand your soil.
As gardeners we like to grow a wide range of plants, many more than those plants which occur naturally in the patch of earth in which we garden.
If our plants are to thrive we need to understand their needs and provide them with the correct environment in which to grow.

If we look at a cross section of soil, it consists of two layers – top soil which comprises the nutrients and organic matter and the subsoil, which is devoid of both these elements.
Topsoil varies in depth from centimetres to a metre or more. The subsoil is hard, difficult to dig and often paler in colour.
All soils are made up of the same basic ingredients, sand, clay, silt and loam.
The proportions in which these occur in your soil determine the type of soil you have.

Sandy soil is granular and has a gritty texture. The particles are large and of an irregular shape and it falls apart when balled up in your hand.
It is easy to dig, free draining and quick to warm up in the spring.
Because of its free draining nature it does not hold water for very long and is therefore prone to drought.
Nutrients leach very quickly from sandy soils which can leave them impoverished.

Clay soils have very tiny particles which pack together tightly excluding air and making the soil sticky and difficult to work, they can be rolled in the hand to form a ball.
Drainage is poor and clay soils are often waterlogged, making them slow to warm up in spring, in summer they bake hard, crack badly and form large lumps.

Silty soil is usually fertile, falls between clay and sand particle size and compacts easily. It is a free draining soil type.

Loam contains clay, sand and silt particles blended in combination with humus, in a balance which supplies plants with the air and fertile soil best suited to their needs. Moisture retentive and well drained, loamy soils warm up quickly in spring and are easy to work.

Once you have established your soil type you can begin to take steps to improve the condition of the soil.
Gypsum (calcium sulphate) can be used to break up clay by a process called flocculation, tiny particles form into larger particles which cause lumps to crumble and improve the friability of the soil.
This effect sometimes lasts for only 1-2 years.
The most effective long term solution to the problem of clay soils is to incorporate as much organic matter as possible into the soil
The addition of bulky organic matter will help clay soils open up, drain more efficiently and improve the uptake of nutrients.
Similarly the retention of both water and nutrients is improved on sandy and silty soils by adding humus.

Well rotted stable manure, sheep manure, cow manure and compost contain plant food and add valuable humus to the soil.
Mulch such as pea straw, which is constantly replenished as it decays, will also improve the friability of your soil
Leaf mould is a good soil conditioner although low in food value.
Growing a green manure crop is an excellent way to introduce a substantial amount of organic matter into the soil.
Healthy soil contains millions of microscopic bacteria, fungi and earthworms that are constantly breaking down humus and providing the food that plants need. The other vital ingredients are water, which dissolves these nutrients, and air, without which soil organisms would die.

Soil pH

As both very acid and very alkaline soils lock away nutrients, it is important to
establish the pH of your soil as this can have a direct impact on how successfully
your plants grow.
pH is the measurement of its acidity or alkalinity and is determined by the amount of
lime it contains. This has an effect on the uptake of nutrients and also on the species
of plants which can be grown successfully.
Soil acidity is measured on a scale which ranges from 1 which is extremely acid, to
14 which is extremely alkaline.
Each unit change in the pH scale is a tenfold difference in acidity or alkalinity.
As an example a soil with a Ph of 8 is ten times more alkaline than soil with a pH of
7
A pH of 7 is neutral and somewhere close to this level is best for growing vegetables.
Most ornamental plants grow best where the pH is somewhere between 5.5 and 7.5.
Lime hating plants such as rhododendrons and azaleas prefer a lower pH while lime
lovers such as bearded iris and brassicas grow best in soil with a pH above 7.0
Measuring the acidity or alkalinity of your soil involves taking several samples from
around your garden and testing with a small inexpensive soil testing kit which is
readily available.
Plants and weeds that do well in your garden can be an indicator of soil pH.
Rhododendrons, azaleas, sorrel and plantain thrive in acid
soil. The presence of sorrel is often a good indicator that soil is acid.
Lime lovers like bearded iris, poppies, clematis and brassicas thrive in alkaline soil.

Changing Soil pH
It is quite a simple matter to make soil more alkaline, ie raise its pH by adding lime,
(calcium hydroxide) dolomite, (dolomitic limestone) or wood ashes.
To increase soil acidity is less straightforward, the addition of animal manures, leaf
mould, sawdust and peatmoss will all help to acidify the soil.
The addition of powdered sulphur at the rate of 1.2oz sulphur per square metre should reduce acidity by 1.0 point.
Iron deficiency (Iron chlorosis) is the result of high pH soils reducing the availability
of iron to plants. Leaves which become pale green or turn yellow and have leaf veins which remain green indicate iron deficiency. The use of iron chelates will alleviate this problem.

Plant nutrients.
Plants require a whole range of mineral nutrients to sustain healthy growth.
Most soils contain a reasonable range of them, however it is possible for soils to be deficient in some nutrients, which affects growth and performance.
This often becomes apparent once plants are established and failure to thrive or unhealthy foliage indicates that all is not well.
It is helpful to know something about the most significant of these in order to identify possible deficiencies in your soil
Most of the major element deficiencies show on the old or lower leaves of the plant.
Minor element deficiencies usually appear on the newer leaves towards the tips.

Essential Plant Nutrients
Calcium (Ca)
Magnesium (Mg)
Nitrogen (N)
Phosphorus (P)
Potassium (Potash) (K)
Sulphur (S)

Trace Elements
Boron (B)
Chlorine (Cl)
Copper (Cu)
Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn)
Molybdenum (Mo)
Zinc (Zn)

Nitrogen
Essential for the formation of protein and chlorophyll and responsible for vigour and
size of leaves and stems.
Imparts dark green colour to plants.
The soil in its natural state has very little nitrogen available to plants, most of the
nitrogen is present in the organic matter in the soil, so the total amount of nitrogen in
in the soil is dependant on the organic matter.
Nitrogen deficiency causes stunting, harder stems and mature leaves which become
Chlorotic (yellowish) progressing from light green to yellow.

Sources of Nitrogen
Fresh Manure… rich in uric acid… a potent form of nitrogen which can easily burn plant tissue.
Aged manure…well rotted 2-3 years old.
Nitrogen content is variable and dependant on age and method of storage.
All these forms of nitrogen must be broken down by nitrifying bacteria before the plant is able to use them.
Nitrifying bacteria are most active in moist aerated soils, wet and water logged soils do not contain sufficient oxygen to supply the needs of the bacteria.
Legumes…(peas, beans, clover etc) with the help of soil bacteria are able to fix nitrogen on nodules on their roots.
Soils in which these crops have recently grown are particularly rich in nitrogen.
Blood and bone
Dynamic Lifter and similar compound fertilisers, (check the formula on the packet)
are a good source.
Sulphate of Ammonia (ammonium sulphate)… use carefully as it can burn soft tissue.
Nitrogen given in conjunction with added potash gives a balance which is necessary for growth. Compound fertilisers, (check the formula on the packet) are a good source.

Phosphorus

Important for strong root growth ( essential for root vegetables) energy storage and
seed production and is involved in the transfer of hereditary traits.
Vigorous seedlings, promotes rapid development of roots in young plants… any
seedbed should have an ample supply of phosphates.
Symptoms of deficiency include stunted growth, low drought tolerance, weak root systems, poor seedling growth and lack of response to other fertilisers.
Sources of Phosphorus
Bone or fishmeal
Superphosphate.
Organic matter in the soil is an important source of phosphorus and aeration and moisture are important for microbiological breakdown of organic matter, an important source of phosphorus.

Potassium (potash)

Necessary for the well balanced growth of leaves and stems, water uptake and photosynthesis.
Production of flowers and fruit…plants which fail to flower properly can often be induced to do so by the addition of potash.
Potash deficiency is characterized by scorched leaf margins and sometimes a reddish tint to leaves, poor flowering, fruiting and berrying, winter damage and frost damage.
Highly soluble, so well drained sandy soils are often deficient, however moisture is needed in order for potassium to move to the roots for uptake
Uptake of potassium is affected more than most other nutrients by poor aeration.
Sources of Potash
Wood ash in generous amounts
Seaweed based fertilisers
Compound fertilisers, e.g. tomato plant food.

Magnesium

This element is an essential part of the chlorophyll molecule and aids in the
absorption of other nutrients, it is also important for seed production.
Magnesium deficiency shows in the older leaves which become red-brown,
green at the tips and lower central vein areas and there is often early leaf fall.
The most common source of magnesium is dolomitic limestone which neutralizes soil
acidity while providing calcium and magnesium.
Magnesium Sulphate can be applied to the soil or used as a foliar spray.

Calcium

Stimulates root and shoot development, influences yield by reducing soil acidity,
maintains the integrity of cell membranes and is necessary for nitrogen fixation by
legumes.
Deficiencies of calcium are associated with soil acidification, poor root growth and growing tips.
As most calcium deficient soils are acidic, liming is an efficient method of adding calcium. Both garden lime and and dolomite are reliable sources .

Sulphur

Essential for nitrogen fixation by legumes, necessary for chlorophyll formation and as a constituent of the organic compounds that give odours to onions, garlic and mustard.
Deficiency shows up as pale green young leaves, thin stems and spindly growth. Sources of sulphur are animal manures and organic matter in the soil.