Meredith Nursery Feb / Mar 2009 Newsletter

In this Issue Vegie Patch Ornamental Garden Soil Preparation & Improvement Native garden Orchard VISIT THE NURSERY February / March Summer in the garden means using whatever water we have available, mulching to conserve moisture and enjoying our gardens in the early mornings and evenings when it is cool and pleasant. With the recent high temperatures it is easy to forget that autumn is just around the corner and we need to plan and prepare for winter and spring. Now is an excellent time to take note of the performance of your plants under very hot and difficult conditions, and perhaps replace those that have struggled, with some of the many plants more suited to our Mediterranean climate. It is also a good time to assess areas of the garden which could benefit from suitable shade trees. Planting a deciduous tree or trees on the north side of the house provides valuable shade and cooling in summer  and allows winter sun to warm your house. In the vegetable patch continue to mulch tomatoes, corn, pumpkins cucumbers beans and capsicum. It is important to get late winter and spring crops in to ensure there isn’t a gap between summer and spring vegetables, delay now means that plants will not make enough growth before the soil temperatures drop in winter. If you can, transplant seedlings early in the morning or evening preferably on an overcast or dull day. Make a hole which is deep enough to contain the roots, fill with soil or compost and gently press down soil around the plant. Water in with seaweed fertilizer and provide some shade if the weather is hot. Plant carrots and parsnips in an area which has been fertilized for a previous crop, fresh manure will cause forking of roots. Deeply dug, friable soil will ensure long tapering roots. Parsnip seed has a very short life so be sure to purchase fresh seed each year. Plant broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower, use compost and dolomite or lime and keep them growing strongly with fortnightly doses of liquid manure. White cabbage month can be a problem at this time of year, small wire tunnels covered in bird netting work very well or you can check the underside of the leaves each day. Plant lettuce in soil which has good humus and nitrogen levels, mulch and keep moist, this will keep them growing strongly and prevent them from becoming bitter. Turnips and swede turnips are great for winter soups and stews, sow directly and thin to 10 cms apart. Silver beet is a biennial which goes to seed in its second season, hardy and prolific it likes nitrogen and a mulch in dry weather. Garlic needs good drainage and soil rich in humus, plant cloves 4 to 5 cms deep. A dressing of lime or dolomite provides the alkaline conditions which beetroot prefers, add some compost and plant about 15cms apart. Keep moist and weed free. In the ornamental garden Roses have again proven to be winners flowering prolifically despite the extreme heat. Now is the time to prune them lightly, fertilize and water for an autumn flush of blooms. Take your secateurs with you into the garden and continue to deadhead perennials and annuals to keep them flowering. Tip prune fuchsias and give a liquid feed to encourage flowering. A sprinkle of lime around hellebores will help developing flower buds, water in well. Fertilize camellias, daphne, rhododendrons, azalea and magnolias now for a beautiful display in late winter and spring. Geraniums (Pelargoniums) should be cut back now to keep them shapely and allow them to put on growth before winter. Group pot plants together, watering is quicker and easier and pots stay moist for longer periods. Cover sensitive plants with shadecloth, if sun damage has already occurred resist the urge to remove the damaged leaves until temperatures become milder in autumn. Remove emerging weeds before they seed and throw them in the compost. Autumn is the best time to divide clivia, agapanthus and daylilies. Prepare soil with some compost and keep them moist. Trim hedges such as box, westringia, lilly pilly and lonicera. Soil Preparation and Improvement. Late summer and early autumn is the best time to prepare soil for winter and spring planting. Any good garden starts with the soil and water wise gardening is no exception, whatever your soil type, (sandy, clay or loam) it will improve, become more friable and have increased water holding capacity with the addition of organic matter. Continue to mulch with animal manures such as sheep, cow, horse or chicken, and mulch  using  peastraw, sugarcane, or your own compost or leaf mould. If soil is acidic add some dolomite or lime, about two handsful per square metre. These materials are necessary for long term soil improvement, forming valuable humus as they decompose. Green Manure Organic matter can be added to the soil by growing a green manure crop which is dug into the soil about six to eight weeks after planting, this is an excellent way of introducing a lot of organic matter into the soil very quickly. Trench Composting A compost trench is a simple alternative to a compost heap and is a method which can be used during autumn and winter when activity slows in compost bins. Most suited for vegetable gardens where nutrient loss is high or for improving soil fertility in specific ares of the garden. In late summer or autumn dig out a trench about 30 cm wide and 30 cm deep. Gradually fill the trench with plant debris, vegetable scraps and other kitchen waste. Dig a second parallel trench and cover the material in the first trench with the soil that has been dug from the second trench. Woody materials such as brassica stems and plant prunings may need to chopped roughly or shredded before being buried. Some pelleted chicken manure or blood and bone to supply nitrogen will help to speed up the process. The Deep Bed System When using the deep bed system  soil is removed to one spade deep and the exposed subsoil in the bottom of the trench is broken up with a garden fork to allow roots to penetrate deeply. Place a generous layer of manure, compost or other organic matter in the bottom of the trench and cover with soil. From this point on cultivation is kept to a minimum and additional organic matter is only added as top dressing or mulch. Making Leafmould. Leafmould is an excellent soil conditioner,a valuable source of organic matter, is simple to make and needs very little preparation. Deciduous tree and shrubs will soon be dropping huge amounts of this valuable soil conditioner so gather it up and put it to use. For large gardens a wire sided bin or pen to hold leaves as they decompose is all that is necessary, while for smaller gardens  black plastic rubbish bags are all that is needed. Rake up fallen leaves after rain and place them in bags or bins. To every 30cm layer of leaves add a handful of organic fertilizer such as pelleted chicken manure, and water thoroughly when bag is full. Over a period of about two years the leaves will decompose and settle to produce mulch or soil conditioner. If this is done every autumn you will always have an excellent supply of mulch or organic matter to add to your soil. To accelerate leaf decay run the lawn mower over them with the grasscatcher attached and empty into bin or bags. Site preparation for revegetation and shelterbelts. Adequate preparation of the site is crucial to the survival of seedling trees and their subsequent growth. Weed control prior to planting and for the first year is the most important step to take to avoid seedling death and stunted growth, competition for stored soil moisture is eliminated and active growth is possible in spring and summer. The site should be deep ripped in late summer/early autumn to achieve soil “shatter”, well tilled soil allows any moisture to be absorbed, better root development and uniformity of growth. Top Water Storing Crystals. Pre soaked water storing  crystals placed in the planting hole or mixed into potting mix or soil, are essential to give your plants the best chance of success. Only small quantities are needed (1/2 teaspoon per plant) and it is important to soak them in a seaweed solution before placing them in the root zone. The crystals absorb the liquid fertilizer and moisture and provide the plant with both nutrients and moisture. Soil Wetting Agents Soil wetting agents come in both liquid and granular form and are particularly useful where soils are water repellant. They break down the water resistant layer on top of the soil preventing wasteful run off, help soil retain moisture longer after rain and move water faster into the root zone. After the prolonged dry summer period soils will benefit from the application of a soil wetting agent to ensure penetration of water and lessen “runoff”. Both these products are invaluable in a waterwise garden In the home orchard it is time to feed citrus, limes, lemons, mandarin, oranges, grapefruit and cumquats. Use a citrus fertilizer or pelleted chicken manure, water well,and mulch. Citrus grow best in well drained loam in full sun with some protection from strong winds, roots grow very close to the surface so avoid deep cultivation and fertilize and mulch out to the dripline. Fertilize other fruit trees from early to mid autumn, good hygiene will help to prevent pests and diseases so pick up and dispose of apples with codling moth infestation, (place in a plastic bag and dispose of in the bin), other fallen and mummified fruit should also be discarded. Continue to mulch cane fruits, currants, blueberries and strawberries, keep moist and apply some leafmould if available. Rhubarb should be deep mulched and kept moist, if you intend to plant rhubarb crowns in winter it is important to prepare the soil now. Rhubarb is a cool climate plant and thrives in humus rich soil with lots of nitrogen. If you are planning to plant fruit trees or cane fruit, ensure your site is well drained, dig deeply and incorporate some compost and or aged manure. Mulch with an organic mulch and you will have given your plants an excellent start in spring. Top In the native garden autumn is an excellent time to establish new plants which will make good growth before the short days and lower temperatures of winter slow growth. When choosing native plants for your garden it is important to remember that one size definitely does not fit all, Australia has many different climatic regions and it is best to choose plants which will thrive in your area. As with all plants soil is important, while many native plants are hardy most will benefit from some care taken with soil preparation prior to planting. Heavy clay soils which have poor soil structure do not allow easy penetration of water however when water does get through waterlogging can occur. Creating raised beds will enable plants to be grown in these areas In sandy soils moisture retention and low levels of nutrients  can be a problem,using small amounts of compost and mulching with organic mulches will help, however organic mulches which contain high levels of nutrients should be avoided as they may be too rich for some natives. Fertilizer should be chosen from formulations which are low in phosphorus. Tip pruning when young creates a more compact plant which will flower well. Attracting native birds to your garden is best achieved by planting a variety of  species which provide shelter and food. Plants should include necter bearing plants such as banksias, callistemon, correas and grevilleas as well as seed bearing native grasses, banksias, hakeas and leptosperman, are just a few of the many plants which are available. The use of native plants as hedges has become increasingly popular, many native plants grow quickly to provide dense shelter and privacy As plants in a hedge must compete for nutrients and moisture it is important to prepare the site by digging deeply and incorporating some organic matter into the soil. A little care may need to be taken initially with watering, weeding and tip pruning but most are hardy and will need minimal attention when mature apart from a trim to keep them bushy and dense. Do not be tempted to allow your hedge to grow tall to quickly, clipping and tip pruning will encourage your plants to grow from the base and you will have new growth from base to top. Hakeas such as H. salicfolia if tightly clipped make a great hedge or screen and are particularly useful in a narrow area beside a driveway or fence. Westringia fruiticosa the coastal rosemary can be clipped hard for a drought tolerant hedge in a waterwise garden, and W. “Wynyabbie Gem’ makes a lovely low hedge to define driveways and paving. Grevilleas, banksias and callistemon  make softer, less formal, colourful and attractive hedges while the sticky wattle A.howittii has pale yellow flowers in spring and a slightly weeping habit which makes a stunning backdrop to any garden. For low hedges there are the correas which can be clipped quite hard if necessary, Callistemon “Little John” has red flowers while G “Scarlet Sprite” has beautiful scarlet spider flowers. The increasing popularity of the lillipillies is well deserved and Syzygium “Bush Christmas” a fine leafed lillipilly with new growth an attractive crimson, is an excellent choice for a small hedge. Well that’s all for this month, enjoy the milder autumn weather, Marg and the team at Meredith nursery. TOP Copyright 2009 Meredith Wholesale Nursery Forward this message to a friend | Privacy Policy

Meredith Nursery Spring Newsletter

In this Issue Water efficient garden Worms and Worm farms Vegie Patch Tomatoes Herbs Native garden Ornamental Garden What a wonderful time spring is for the keen gardener, flowers everywhere, summer vegetables such as tomatoes and corn are starting to grow and everywhere we see the results of our work and planning. Now is the time to prepare for the hotter months ahead, utilise compost made over winter, get rid of spring weeds before they seed and then mulch, mulch, mulch. The Water Efficient Garden. Garden design Until recently most Australian gardens were not designed with the efficient use of water as a priority, however the recent drought and water shortages have seen a marked change in the way we approach and design our gardens. Those who are starting a new garden have a unique opportunity to design a garden which  has low water needs. For those with established gardens a reassessment of the placement of plants and introduction of drought tolerant species means we can still have and enjoy our gardens without guilt, and often with reduced work. A site analysis of your garden can be as simple as a sketch of your house and garden and any other buildings on your site. On this plan define prevailing winds, summer sun and shaded areas of the garden. You will find that your garden has several microclimates in a relatively small area and these can be altered or exploited to obtain the results you want for your garden. Areas which face north provide the sunny aspect necessary for growing vegetables, drying clothes and the addition of a pergola covered in a deciduous vine  and deciduous shade trees, will provide summer shade and cooling and allow winter sun to warm the house. Choose drought tolerant native plants or exotics from those parts of the world with similar climatic conditions to our own. Windbreak plantings can minimise both hot and cold winds and in the smaller garden a hedge will provide a sheltered environment. In the water saving garden an ongoing  program of soil improvement, using compost manure and mulches such as lucerne, peastraw and sugarcane will improve soil structure and fertility and the water holding capacity of soil. Soil salinity will have a direct impact on the plants which will thrive in your locality and testing your water supply for disolved salt is an excellent idea. This service is available locally at Meredith Nursery. The acidity or alkalinity of soil should also be assessed, again this will indicate what will grow best in your area or allow you to take steps to change the pH of your soil. When choosing native plants it is important to choose those which thrive in your area, many of our native plants grow in climatic regions of Australia which are very different from our own. Mulching reduces moisture loss through evaporation, suppresses weeds which compete for moisture and reduces fluctuations in soil temperature. Organic mulches rob the soil of nitrogen as they begin to break down. It is useful to apply some blood and bone before mulch is laid down or to allow the mulch to begin to decompose before you use it. Hydrophobic soils which do not take up water can be helped by the use of a wetting agent which improves the uptake and helps to distribute  moisture throughout  the soil. Water storing crystals which absorb many times their own weight in water are of assistance when planting out trees and shrubs. Care needs to be taken to use the correct amount or to hydrate the crystals before planting, as the plant can be pushed out of the ground by the swelling action of the crystals as they take up water. It is preferable to make up the water crystals 24 hours before use, into a solution of Seasol®,(or other  seaweed tonic with no N:P:K) at the rate of 25mls of Seasol®, per litre of good quality tank water. Do not use bore water unless it has and EC of less than 100.   Stir this solution several times in the 24 hour period and you will find that the crystals take up the Seasol® solution ensuring this is available to the roots of the plant. Hnce a tonic placed at the root zone, which will offer some protection from stress due to heat, lack of water etc.  When using water crystals remember to water deeply less frequently, ensuring that the watering has rehydrated the crystals to continue to be available to the plants roots. Avoiding water wastage is the quickest way to reduce water consumption. Grouping plants with similar water requirements together enables you to water when needed rather than watering an entire group to provide for a few thirsty plants. Always check the soil moisture under mulch before you commence watering. Avoid watering in the middle of the day when evaporation is highest, early morning  is best for plants such as roses which are susceptible to fungal diseases. Watering in the evening ensures that little moisture is lost to evaporation. Drip irrigation is one of the best methods of watering as it delivers water where it is needed at the root zone and there is no wastage from spray drift. The installation of a tank on garden sheds or outbuildings can provide an alternative supply for your garden and ensure that any summer rain can be harvested and utilised. Recycling grey water from laundry and shower will provide a surprising amount of water, use a biodegradable laundry detergent, harvest the rinse cycle only and use the water alternately with other sources to avoid soil alkalinity. Do not use grey water on crops which you intend to eat to avoid contamination with bacteria which may be present in grey water. TOP Worm Farms. Worm farms are an excellent means of providing  rich vermicompost and liquid fertilizer for gardens. Garden worms are not suitable for worm farms and the worms you purchase will usually be referred to as tiger worms, compost worms or red wrigglers. Successful worm farming is quite simple provided a few basic requirements are met. Choose a sheltered spot for your farm, not too hot and not too cold. Your container can be an old bath, polystyrene box or one of the purpose built worm farms which are available. If you use a polystyrene container, put some holes in the container and place your bedding in this, then add the worms, cover and place over another container to catch the liquid. A bedding layer of shredded paper, leaves and some finished compost about 15cm deep is placed on the bottom of your container. The bedding is covered with a layer of hessian, carpet or newspaper to keep the bedding dark and moist. Keep your worm farm moist but not wet, if worms migrate to the underside of the lid it is generally a sign that your farm is too wet. Once the worms have burrowed in add a small amount of kitchen scraps, do not add any more until these are almost gone. To harvest the vermicompost place new food to one side of the container and when the worms have migrated to the food remove the compost from the other side. Vermicompost makes great fertilizer for pots, top dressing garden plants and can be used as potting mix. The liquid which trickles to the bottom of your farm is a potent liquid fertilizer, dilute using 1 part of worm tea to 9  parts of water. Packages of worms, worm tea and worm castings are now available from Meredith Nursery Things to Add to a Worm Farm Vegetable peelings Fruit peelings Teabags Coffee grounds Shredded paper Do not Add Citrus peel or fruit Meat Oils Dairy products Onions and onion skins In the vegetable patch plant lettuce and salad greens every 2-3 weeks to ensure a good supply for tasty summer salads. Loose leaf varieties will enable you to harvest leaves over quite a long period and they come in an attractive range of colours and textures to add interest to your garden and your salad bowl. Keep them growing strongly with liquid fertiliser applied fortnightly. Plant tomato, basil, capsicum, sweet corn, zucchini, beetroot, pumpkin, cucumber, beans, (climbing and bush) eggplant,leek, silver beet and shallots. TOP Growing Tomatoes. Tomatoes are warm climate plants so select a position which has the maximum amount of sunlight and protection from wind and frost. Soil should be well drained with plenty of humus from a previous green manure crop which has been allowed to decay, aged animal manure or compost. Calcium is necessary to strengthen the cell walls of both the plant and its fruit. This will help to prevent blossom end rot which is caused by lack of calcium, hot weather and spasmodic watering. Calcium is supplied by sprinkling garden lime or dolomite at about one handful per square metre, slightly more if your soil is very acidic. Blossom end rot is a blackened sunken patch which appears at the basal end of the fruit. The stem of the plant can be buried leaving the foliage above ground and providing your soil is well drained the plant will grow roots from the buried stem. Liquid seaweed will encourage roots and you will have a healthier more productive plant. Potash is important to promote growth and flowering, it is sold a sulphate of potash or muriate of potash. Potash is also available in wood ash however this is unavailable to the plants unless organic acids are present in the soil. Organic acids are present in compost so it is important to supply plenty of compost if you use wood ash. A fortnightly dose of liquid fertilizer or seaweed solution will keep them growing strongly. Water regularly and mulch to ensure an even supply of moisture to your plants. Do not water overhead particularly in the evening, this helps to prevent the spread of disease spores, gently trickle water at the base of your plants and allow it to spread out under the mulch. Allow enough space around your plants to allow air movement and prevent disease. Support your bushes to fruit resting on the ground and being attacked by slugs and snails. If you are accustomed to supermarket tomatoes which have been bred with tough skins for mechanical harvesting and transporting long distances you will be astounded at the flavour and texture of your home grown tomatoes. Growing Sweetcorn Sweetcorn is wind pollinated so always plant your corn in blocks rather than rows to ensure a good crop. Plant in soil which has been enriched with manure or compost. Mulch heavily to encourage lateral roots at the soil surface Keep moist. In the herb garden Parsley is a must, flat leaf parsley has the most flavour, while curly leaf parsley is slightly less aromatic with a crunchy texture. Plant when soil has warmed in spring. Tarragon likes a well drained soil in full sun, it has a delicate licorice flavour. Borage has sky blue star shaped flowers which can be used in salads, or to attract bees into your garden for pollination of other crops. Coriander is best grown in spring and autumn as it bolts into flower and seeds in full sun. Sage is a shrubby perennial with aromatic leaves and attractive flowers. Harvest the leaves for cooking before the plant flowers when they are most fragrant. Cut back after flowering to keep compact. Rosemary is an evergreen shrub which makes a fragrant hedge and responds well to clipping into balls and cones. It likes a sunny position and well drained soil. There  are prostrate forms also available that will cascade over garden walls or banks. Thyme, hardy perennials, some are mat forming others are small woody shrubs which thrive in full sun in well drained soil. Clip them after flowering to encourage fresh new growth and enjoy them in salads and savoury dishes. Oregano and marjorum are both species of origanum. Grow in well drained soil in a sunny position and cut back after flowering. Use in savoury dishes. Chives are perennials which die back in winter, divide clumps every 2-3 years in early spring The pink flower balls make an attractive border in the herb or vegetable garden. Garlic chives have broader stems and white flowers and the flat leaves have a distinctive garlic flavour. Lemon balm smells of lemon but is actually a relative of mint. It makes a refreshing herbal tea and can be used wherever a lemon flavour is required. Mints of which there are many varieties are fragrant perennials which enjoy moist soil. Best grown in pots as they spread by means of underground stems and will quickly invade your garden Bay,  (Laurus nobilis) grown for its aromatic leaves, it grows well in containers and can be clipped into topiary shapes. In the ground it grows slowly into a large tree. The leaves of sweet bay are used in cooking,  however never eat the berries as they are poisonous. Basil is grown as an annual after danger of frost has passed, it is useful in salads and essential in tomato dishes. Dill is an aromatic annual which adds flavour to seafood. Chervil has feathery foliage and an aniseed flavour, sow directly into the ground in moist soil and partial shade to prevent bolting to seed. TOP In the ornamental garden it’s time to apply fertilizer to pots and garden beds. Use a pelletised fertiliser for around roses and perennials and give pot plants a dose of liquid fertiliser and some slow release pellets. Be sure to use the amount recommended on the label as more is not necessarily better! Always water before and after applying fertiliser, which should extend out to the dripline of the plant. Plant specific fertilisers, such as low phosphorus formulas for natives, acidic for Azaleas and other acid loving plants, and citrus for lemons and other citrus give good results. We are happy to help with any queries you may have. Keeping on top`of weeds in spring is most important to prevent the spread of fungal diseases slugs and snails which enjoy the moist conditions and will quickly decimate your young plants. Weeds compete with your plants for food and moisture so unless they are seeding put them into the compost heap. Deadhead or trim flowering plants and shrubs to promote shapely growth and prolong flowering. A video showing how to dead head roses is available from our website here. Plant dianthus, impatiens, lobelia, marigold, nasturtium, petunias, salvia, aster, snapdragon, cleome and dahlias. Monitor roses for black spot and other fungal problems, water in the morning if possible and try not to wet the leaves We have some great potted  roses at the nursery at the moment, “Casanova” is a bright clear copper-orange, striking in garden or pot, as is “Tropical Sunset” with swirls of pinky orange and cream. “Windermere” is a pure white rose from David Austin, a small to medium bushy shrub which is free flowering and has a delightful fruity fragrance and “Heritage” another Austin, a soft pink, also fragrant and free flowering.  For fans of the “painter” roses we have “Henri Matisse” and “Alfred Sisely”. Clip box and other hedges to keep them shapely, fertilise and mulch. Bearded iris are at their peak now, enjoy the delicate blooms and lift and divide after flowering if necessary. Discard the spent tubers at the centre and replant making sure the top of the tuber is above ground. Ajuga “Catlin’s Giant” has beautiful deep blue flowers in spring and makes a stunning groundcover under roses. Asters or Easter Daisies are a popular plant for the border; “Pink Star” has masses of soft pink flowers in late summer to mid autumn. Part to full sun, good drainage and an application of fertilizer in mid spring will keep it growing well. Lavenders are also blooming now trim them back when they have finished to keep them compact and bushy. L. “Ruffled Ladies are particularly handsome additions to your garden. A little lime or dolomite is enjoyed by both bearded iris and lavenders. In the native garden prune after flowering has finished and apply a low phosphorus fertilizer, water in and mulch well. Natives planted now will make excellent growth if kept moist over the summer months. Helichrysum, (strawflower) is a hardy annual which looks good in both the native or exotic garden. Till next time Happy gadening from Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery TOP Copyright 2008 Meredith Wholesale Nursery

Meredith Nursery June Newsletter

Winter in the garden is never boring ,with so many tasks to be done, bare root planting, pruning and enjoying the crisp mornings and evenings.
It is a great time to reorganise the garden, plant a new`rose, an ornamental tree, fruit tree, or berries.
Now is a good time to construct retaining walls or paths and to organize drainage pipes or irrigation systems for summer.
Make sure pruning tools are sharp and in good working order and invest in strong gloves before you tackle the roses.
Enjoy the special fragrances in the winter garden and the delicate beauty of winter flowers.

In the vegetable patch continue to foliar fertilize on a fortnightly basis to keep plants growing during the shortest coldest days of winter.
Plant broad beans and early peas and seedlings of broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower.

Start to harvest late summer plantings of broccoli and cauliflower, leave broccoli plants and they will provide you with a second smaller harvest.

Plant long keeping onions now, also chives, shallots and tree onions.
If you have not planted garlic yet there is still time for a quick planting.
Plant asparagus crowns, strawberries, rhubarb, Jerusalem artichokes and globe artichokes.
Start preparing beds for spring planting, dig in green manure and sheep manure ready for corn and tomatoes in spring.
Growing vegetables and fruits has become increasingly popular as more people have concerns about the origins of their food and the huge expenses and energy costs involved in production and transportation.
A large quantity of fresh nutritious food can be harvested from quite a small plot, or even from pots in a sunny courtyard.

In the ornamental garden trim away old leaves on hellabores to allow new growth to emerge and to reveal beautiful winter blooms, early jonquils and daffodils are starting to flower as well as fragrant violets, cheiranthus (wallflower) and daphne.
Winter is an excellent time to divide clumps of agapanthus which have become too large.
Dig up the clump and place it where it can be broken into smaller plants with a sharp spade or knife.
Pull apart with the hands and replant in soil enriched with organic matter.
Tree dahlias can now be cut to the ground, cut stems into 40cm lengths with about three nodes and replant to increase your stock.
The superb white trunks of silver birch are perfect against the backdrop of leaden winter skies and many of the malus (crabapple) retain their jewel coloured fruits on bare branches into winter
Prune hydrangeas, cut back stems that had flowers last summer down to two buds close to the base of the plant, stems which have not flowered should be left unpruned.
Lagerstroemia (crepe myrtle) flowers on new season’s growth so prune back in winter by cutting off about one third of this years growth.
Plant calendula, stocks, primula, cineraria and pansies and keep them growing strongly with a fortnightly dose of liquid fertilizer.
For midwinter to spring colour the flowering apricots are hard to beat, Prunus mume has tightly packed flowers along the stem in a delicate pink.

Spring flowering deciduous plants should not be pruned until flowering finishes, this allows new growth on which the next season’s flowers develop.
Never prune these plants in winter, the spring flower display will be lost.
Plants such as fuchsias or hibiscus, which are not frost tolerant, should not be pruneduntil September.
Camellias are starting to bloom and this is the best time to choose one for your garden.
They have proven to be quite drought tolerant and they are one of the stars of the winter to spring garden.
Best suited to a semi shaded position, they enjoy soil which has leaf litter or other organic matter incorporated, add some compost and they will thrive.
Good drainage is essential, so build up beds if this is a problem.
Mulching is important as they are shallow rooted plants.
Start to feed established camellias this month with compost and blood and bone.

In the native garden the golden balls of the winter flowering wattles look superb, try Acacia boormanii (Snowy River wattle) which grows 3-4 m has grey foliage and yellow flowers.
Acacia drummondii has golden flowers and grows 1-1.5m.
Acacia longifolia (Sallow wattle) is a tough plant 3-8m high, good for screening, bright yellow flowers.
Acacia podalyriifolia (Mount Morgan wattle is a most attractive plant with silver leaves and masses of golden flowers. To 4-5m .
Acacia retinodes (Wirilda) is a small tree 4-7m which has pale yellow flowers for most of the year.
Correas are putting on a wonderful display at the moment, Correa alba in white and pink has star shaped flowers and the tiny red bells of Correa reflexa are a delight both to the gardener and the native birds.
We have a huge range of grevilleas to choose from, groundcovers to large shrubs, hardy and bird attracting.

Growing Grapes
Table grapes are easy to grow and as well as providing delicious fruit can be trained to ramble over pergolas and fences creating cool leafy shade in summer.
Vines grow rapidly and because they are deciduous they are useful in a western or northern situation, blocking the summer sun and letting light and warmth in during winter.
Vines grow best in areas which have cool wet winters and warm summers with low rainfall.
Grapevines can withstand very low temperatures when they are dormant, however frost during budburst in early spring can be devastating, so avoid low lying areas and frost pockets when choosing a site.
Vines are adaptable and will grow in most soils which are well drained, friable and at least 60cm deep.
Soils with high salinity can restrict growth and should be avoided.
Acid soils which decrease the availability of most plant nutrients can affect the vigour of vines and a small amount of lime or dolomite will assist in this.
Dig a planting hole which is big enough for the root system of the young vine.
Trim any overlong roots to 10-15cms and prune top growth back to two buds.
Do not allow the vine to dry out before planting and an overnight soak in water to which a little seaweed has been added is helpful.
Plant your vine with roots spread out and ensure the union (where rootstock and selected variety have been joined) is above soil level. Backfill with soil, make a slight basin around the plant and water well.
Weed control is important as weeds compete for nutrients and moisture, mulching will help to retain moisture and prevent weed infestation.
By the end of the first winter your vine will have produced a number of woody canes, select the most upright of these and remove the others. Remove all but the first two buds. Attach a training string or stake and attach to your trellis, this will help to establish a straight sturdy trunk from which two arms can be trained going in opposite directions along a wire or support.
If you wish to grow your vines on a pergola, train your trunk to pergola height then train the arms along the structure.
Each bud on your vine has the potential to produce a shoot and a bunch or two of fruit next spring, however as it is normal for a vine to produce hundreds of buds pruning is necessary not only to maintain the shape of your vine but to reduce the the number of shoots and fruits and thereby improve the quality of the fruit.
Watering is best done at ground level, this reduces the risk of fungal disease and splitting of fruit, keep moisture levels high in the month before flowering and for 3-4 weeks following flowering.
Avoid total dryness as berries ripen but do not keep soil very wet during this time to avoid fruit splitting and promote maturity.
The major pests are light brown apple moth, vine moth and leaf blister mite (Erinose mite) however most of these pests cause only minor damage in the home garden situation even when they are not controlled.
Light brown apple moth and Vine moth lay eggs on the leaves and fruit and the emerging caterpillars feed on young flowers and berries or the leaves of the vine.
Sprays of Bacillus thuringiensis will easily control both these pests and is a “natural” non chemical solution to this problem.
The microscopic Grape leaf blister mite (Erinose mite) forms blisters on the young leaves and feeding by the mite causes leaves to expand creating a “bubble’ in the leaf. Damage is usually minor. Sulphur sprays will control this mite
Powdery mildew can cause serious damage to your grapes, it is a dry weather disease and develops during mild weather in late spring, early summer and autumn.
Vines which are shaded or have poor airflow are most susceptible.
The appearance of small yellow-green spots on the upper surface of the leaves is followed by a white to ash-grey powder on the upper or lower surface of the leaves.
Leaves, flowers, stalks and shoots can become infected.
Application of a wettable sulphur spray at 2, 4 and 6 weeks from budburst should ensure protection, it is important to start spraying before the disease becomes established.
We have a huge selection of ornamental, fruit and nut trees in the nursery at the moment so get in while we still have a good range from which to make your selection.
We will be able to advise you on compatible varieties for cross pollination to ensure a good crop of fruit.
A Word About Phylloxera…..
Phylloxera is a root dwelling aphid which has had a devastating effect on vineyards world wide.
This pest exists in parts of north eastern Victoria and south eastern New South Wales and some areas of Sydney and Brisbane.
Grape vines should not be taken from these areas.

Kiwi fruit should be pruned early in July to prevent sap bleeding from the cuts.
Simply remove any vines that have borne fruit, leaving a replacement shoot.

Pruning Roses.

Before you begin the task of pruning your roses ensure that your secateurs and pruning saw are sharp and in good order.
Gloves are a must as many roses have vicious thorns and you will need to grasp them as you cut.
Do not prune your roses too early, from the middle of July is soon enough, roses forced into early growth are susceptible to frost damage during winter.
1. Remove all twiggy growth, that is any growth which is less than pencil thickness, unless you are pruning small floribunda or miniature roses.
2. Remove any dead wood or wood in which dieback is present. Die back is a blackening in the centre of the stem which must be removed below the affected area in order to prevent loss of the entire stem.
3. Remove any branches which are crossing or rubbing against other branches.
4. If you are unsure it is better to leave the wood on the bush, you can always remove it later when growth develops and it becomes obvious whether it should be retained or not.
5. Bushes can be left at this stage, however though they will bloom profusely blooms will be smaller and short stemmed.
6. Moderate pruning requires that about ten canes are left on the bush. Prune canes back about one third to an outward facing bud or eye. When deciding which canes to remove choose the oldest (usually grey) canes first retaining young and healthy canes. Make you cut at about 45 degree angle about ¼ inch above a swelling bud eye.
7. Severe pruning leaves fewer canes per bush which are often cut down to about 1foot.
8. When pruning is complete it is vital to clean up all prunings, foliage twigs and canes and either burn or dispose of them in garbage.
9. Spray bushes and ground beneath them with lime sulphur to minimise the risk of fungal disease.

Species and Once Blooming Old Roses.
1. Remove any dead or twiggy growth regardless of the season.
2. Prune immediately after flowering to encourage new growth on which next season’s flowers will blossom.

Climbing Roses
1. Climbing roses require little pruning for the first few years of growth.
2. Once canes develop it is important to train them to grow in a horizontal position. Climbers which are not trained in this way will flower only at the top of the cane, when grown with their tips pointed downward they will flower all along the length of the cane.
3. Remove any dead or twiggy growth.
4. Shorten canes to keep growth within bounds.
5. Trim back the laterals i.e. the stems which grow from the main canes leaving 2 or 3 eyebuds.

Ramblers.
1. Rambling roses generally blossom once during the season`and as they are rampant growers need only older basal growth removed after flowering, this does not include the Banksia roses which are usually left unpruned.

Weeping Standard Roses.
1. Do not prune weeping standards too severely or your plant will become too bushy.
2. Cut back tips and thin growth if necessary.

Standard Roses.
1. Prune standard roses as for bush roses in a vase shape taking care to ensure your standard does not become top heavy.
2. Prune to an outward facing bud as it is important to keep the head of your standard shapely.

Enjoy the rain, enjoy the garden, more news and plants next month,

Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery.

Why Would I Make Compost?

Compost Reasons for making Compost. Sustainable gardening seeks to provide the best conditions for optimum plant health with the smallest possible impact on the environment. The plants in our gardens need a constant supply of nutrients in order to grow and provide us with a pleasant environment in which to live, or nutritious food to eat. One of the cheapest and most environmentally sound ways of achieving this is by recycling household and garden waste to make compost. When we set out to do this we are decreasing the amount of waste we send to council tips and landfill and fertilizing our gardens at the same time. Compost is a balanced way of enriching and improving the health of your soil and encouraging the growth of strong, healthy, disease resistant plants. What is Compost. Compost is quite simply a method of speeding up the process which nature uses to make humus on the forest floor, where the constant renewal of the leaf layer and the shade created by the forest canopy, provides the moist conditions required by the microorganisms necessary for the breakdown of organic matter. Decomposition is the result of digestion and redigestion by a complex ecology of microorganisms, insects and worms which require both air and moisture to transform crude vegetation into humus. Humus is a very important form of decomposed organic matter, a complex mixture of substances and the last stage of the decomposition of organic matter. The soil chemistry of humus varies according to the types of organic matter, the soil organisms involved and the environmental conditions involved in humification. Brown or black in colour it has a light crumbly texture when dry, holds several times its own weight in water when wet and has a fresh “earthy” smell. Temperature fluctuations in the soil are relatively small compared to atmospheric changes and the soil animals are rapidly killed by dry conditions. Mulching in summer gives protection to soil life and improves the viability of soil. Most soil animals are oxygen breathers and cannot live in poorly drained and compacted soil. Making Compost. Compost can be made in heaps, wooden bins, plastic bins or compost tumblers, much depends on your proximity to neighbours, the size of your garden and the amount of compost you require. Compost can be made aerobically (with air) or anaerobically (without air). The most popular method of making compost is aerobic. Keep pets away, pets and compost don’t mix. Don’t add perennial weeds or seeds, or plant residue which is diseased. Meat and bones become smelly and attract flies and rodents. Glossy paper has chemicals in it and is best avoided, newspaper, shredded or torn is fine. Worms dislike onions and garlic. Materials for Compost. Most average households accumulate enough organic materials to make sufficient compost to supply garden needs. The most important factor is to balance the ingredients in your heap, that is the carbon/nitrogen ratio. High carbon materials are the dry, woody materials and the high nitrogen materials are wet and green. The microbes in your compost heap need a ratio of about 30 carbon to 1 nitrogen in order make body mass and multiply. A word about some common materials… Weeds… when green provide nitrogen Banana skins…rich in phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen Leaves…low in nitrogen, rich in minerals, slow to decompose unless shredded or ground with a lawnmower. Hair… high in nitrogen, feathers have similar qualities. Dust from the vacuum cleaner Grass clippings…high in nitrogen, need to be mixed with leaves or straw. Kitchen garbage facilitates the decomposition of other materials. Animal manure…fresh manure contains large amounts of active digestive enzymes and cellulose decomposing bacteria, which speed up heating and decomposition. Blood and bone…high in nitrogen, speeds up decomposition Lime or Dolomite…prevents odours, can speed the decomposition process. Azobacteria, that fix nitrogen in the compost are dependant on the availability of calcium. Calcium is an important soil nutrient essential to the formation of plant and animal protein, however if your soil is very alkaline then it is not necessary to add lime or dolomite to your compost. Lucerne hay… lucerne is a perennial legume which draws on subsoil minerals. Pea straw, hay and straw….nitrogen and carbon. Coffee grounds…nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, attract worms and prevent odour. Building the Heap. Materials available for compost will vary in most backyard situations however it is important to remember the nitrogen/carbon balance if you wish to produce good compost. The smaller the particles in your heap the quicker the decomposition, you can use a lawn mower to chop your materials or use a garden mulcher. You can still make compost without these gadgets it will just take a little longer! The correct moisture level in your heap is very important, too wet and you will have foul odours and a slimy heap, too dry and bacteria and fungi die, and decomposition will come to a halt. Compost with the correct amount of moisture should feel very damp when squeezed but you should not be able to extract much moisture. Turning the heap regularly supplies oxygen for the aerobic bacteria and hastens decomposition, the outer layers are distributed through the heap, the materials which have slumped and softened are fluffed up and recharged with air. If you cannot turn your compost do not despair you can still make compost without turning your heap it will just happen more slowly. If your pile has dried out turning and watering the layers will start the process of decomposition again. It is important to cover and protect your heap from heavy rain. A wet slimy heap quickly becomes airless and chilled and valuable nutrients can leach away. The addition of carbon materials throughout the heap will ensure the even distribution of moisture and get your heap going again. The best size for your compost heap is 1.5m wide and 1.5m long and at least 1.5m high. Smaller heaps will not heat up as well with the exception of the compost tumbler which is a rotating drum that can be turned frequently thus improving aeration and speeding up the process of decomposition. It is best for making small “one off” batches. Probably the best method is to have at least two bins one filled and heating and another gathering material ready for building. Plastic compost bins while not very large are best suited to people in urban situations, however decomposition can take a long time if the C/N ratio is not correct, or material comprises large resistant material like stalks and prunings. Heaps should be open at the base to enable worms and other soil life into your heap. Place some large stalks at the base to ensure airflow build your heap in layers using your high nitrogen and carbon materials and moisten between additions if your material is too dry. Finished compost can be applied directly to the soil, be sure to cover with mulch to protect your valuable humus. VISIT THE NURSERY SITE TO SEE A COMPOST HOW TO VIDEO

Meredith Nursery Newsletter March 2008

Meredith Nursery Newsletter – March 2008

Vol 2 No 2

Welcome to the March newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

In this Issue Barwon Water WATERSECURE program Jobs for the ornamental garden Hibiscus Pruning climbing roses Bare-rooted and Catalogue Home Orchard Native Garden

Visit the Nursery

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March The first month of Autumn has been hot and very dry so it is important to keep mulching to conserve moisture and prevent plants becoming stressed. New plantings, pot plants and hanging baskets will benefit from water storing crystals at planting time and to help to keep roots damp between waterings. The easing of water restrictions has made gardening a little easier this year and I think most of us have realised that the huge amounts of water we once thought necessary for successful gardening no longer hold true. More sustainable plantings and practices enable us to continue to enjoy our gardens without guilt. Water storing crystals absorb water and swell to form a reservoir for plants, they re -expand with each watering and last for a long time in the soil. Soil wetter granules have a different function, they work by helping water to penetrate soil and reduce wasteful runoff. The application of a layer of organic mulch has a similar action, while having the added advantage of adding humus to the soil. The use of soil wetters can be beneficial when applied to bare soils before application of a layer of mulch. It is important to remember that nature abhors a vacuum and will attempt to cover bare soil with weeds if we neglect to mulch. The importance of organic matter in the soil and its function in soil chemistry and the water holding capacity of the soil can not be overstated. For those who missed it the February newsletter contained some discussion of soil, how to recognize your soil type and how to correct soil problems. Following on this theme next month we will be addressing the subject of compost and the various techniques and methods used to make this valuable soil conditioner and fertilizer. For those of our readers who live within the Barwon Water region talk to us about the Barwon Water WATERSECURE program. This program is available to Barwon Water customers only and provides a subsidised garden assessment costing forty dollars. A trained horticulturist will visit your property to: Review garden design and plant zoning Assess plant selection and plant health Assess soil type and health and its ability to retain water Provide a watering schedule detailing how long, and how often, to water specific sections of your garden. Provide helpful tools such as a rain gauge and tap timer, and advise how to determine when to water. Provide tips on maintaining a healthy garden. Identify if the propery is suitable for grey water use. Suggest an appropriate rainwater tank size. Provide a personalised report containing technical information and recommendations. For more information and to organise an assessment contact: Meredith Nursery Ph:52861397 Top Now is the time to prepare soil for bare root plantings of roses, fruit trees and other ornamentals. A little time spent now will ensure the best possible start for your new plantings and ensure vigorous growth in Spring. Take a walk around your garden and observe any bare spots or plantings which have not been successful, now is an excellent time to plan changes to the garden and prepare for new plantings. Be ruthless with non performing plants, choose something better suited to the position, availability of water, or your climate, we are always happy to offer suggestions or discuss this with you. If you are interested in more autumn colour now is the time to look around your neighbourhood for the colours which appeal to you. Get your orders in early to avoid disappointment. The 2008 Bare rooted and tubestock catalogues are available for down load HERE. In the ornamental garden divide daffodils and jonquils which have been in the same spot for some time and they will flower well in Spring. Plant bulbs no less than three times as deep as the bulb is wide. Fuchsias which are looking weary and a bit woody after Summer should be pruned now. A light trim will ensure a display of flowers in May. Sweet peas can be sown from March onwards, add 1-2 cups of lime per sqm to acid soils, plus compost and manure. Apply a liquid fertilizer fortnightly. Plant Ageratum, alyssum, aquilegia, cineraria, cornflower, foxglove, delphinium, hollyhock, lobelia, pansy, polyanthus, poppy, primula, stock and wallflower. Roses benefit now from a cupful of a complete fertilizer, take time to read the N:P:K ratio on the packet and choose the one which is higher in potash (K) content. Top up with mulch or manure, water deeply and enjoy the autumn roses. If you have roses which are particularly susceptible to fungal disease give each bush a dessertspoon of sulphate of potash in autumn, this thickens the cell walls of the plant, promotes stronger stems and increases resistance to disease. Now is the time to prune the winter flowering roses “Lorraine Lee” and “Nancy Haywood”. Deadhead any roses which have finished their second flush and many will continue to flower into June. A short video showing how to dead head roses is available HERE We have had some queries about climbing roses which flower only on the top of the canes. These roses bloom to their greatest potential when their canes are horizontal and a fence, or similar support, is necessary so they can be tied in a fan shape. All the lateral growths which come off the main canes are the bloom bearing laterals and should be retained, simply trim them back to the third or fourth bud when pruning in winter. More detail to come on roses in the May newsletter. Hibiscus are looking wonderful at the moment, Hibiscus rosa-sinensis “Double Johnsonii” is a medium sized evergreen shrub with glossy dark green leaves, flowers are double, apricot coloured with a red centre. Hibiscus rosa sinensis “Isobel Beard” has striking pinky lavender blooms with a red centre, they give a wonderful tropical air to the garden. Lavenders and daisies can be given a light prune now to promote new growth and flowers. Pelargoniums and geraniums should be cut back now; this allows them to make good growth before the cold weather arrives. Sedum “Autumn Joy” is a blaze of colour in gardens at the moment as the pinkish-red flowers gradually become a darker red. If you have a lack of colour in your garden at this time of the year consider the crepe myrtle, Lagerstroemia indica, they are looking beautiful in many gardens at the moment and come in a range of attractive shades as well as white. Agapanthus should have spent flower heads removed now to prevent them setting seed and becoming environmental weeds. For those who would like a more sustainable substitute there are many tufting plants and native grasses which add year round interest to the garden. Patersonia or the native iris is a pretty little clumper with an attractive three petalled purple flower; they do prefer some summer watering. Flax-lilies (Dianella spp.) are tough plants which form attractive clumps and have beautiful blue flowers in spring, followed by purple berries. A close relative of the grass tree (Xanthorrhoea sp.) the Mat- rushes are happy in a dry or wet situation, they vary in size from less than 10cm to a metre in height, are ideal for steep banks, mass plantings, pots or borders. If you are looking for and unusual feature tree the Dawn Redwood “Metasequoia glyptostroboides” is a fast growing, tall, pyramidal tree with soft pale green foliage that turns a spectacular russet brown in autumn. It prefers a moist well drained soil rich in organic matter. Mulch well to conserve moisture. Top In the home orchard be scrupulous about the removal of spoiled and fallen fruit. Codling moth (Cydia pomonella) is a serious pest which affects apples, quinces and pears. It occurs throughout southern Australia and is very difficult to control. The larva is cream coloured and has a brown head. The female moth lives for two weeks and lays small white eggs on the leaves of the tree. Eggs take between five days to two weeks to hatch and enter the apple at the blossom end. When fully grown the caterpillars tunnel out of the fruit and spin cocoons in crevices in the bark or around the base of the tree. The life cycle is complete in about sixty days so it is possible to have several generations within the same year. Fruit which falls should be destroyed by burning, if this is not possible, place the fruit in sealed plastic bags and dispose of in garbage. Heat and fermentation should kill the larvae. Inspect the bark and any crevices on the tree and dispose of any grubs you find. Wrap strips of Hessian or corrugated cardboard around the trunks of trees to catch larvae as they make their way down the tree trunk in spring and summer. Grease bands applied to the trunks of apples pears and quince helps to trap the females which crawl up the trunk to lay eggs. Inspect and destroy the wingless moths. Fowls which are allowed to free range in the home orchard will control many of the caterpillars and prevent damage. Ensure that mulches do not touch the base of your trees and shrubs as this can be an entry point for disease. Keep strawberries moist and renew mulch, next year’s flower buds are forming now. Feed lemon trees with a citrus fertilizer, water well before and after fertilizing. Get in early when ordering new season stock, new or popular varieties are often in great demand. Download Catalogue In the home vegetable patch plant tree onions, shallots and garlic. Divide and replant clumps of chives and garlic chives. Keep a close watch on brassicas for caterpillars; check the undersides of leaves particularly if you have white butterflies in the garden. Water plants with liquid fertilizer every two weeks to keep them growing strongly. Plant beetroot, broad beans, endive, silver beet, brown and white onions, spinach, turnips, lettuce, cauliflower, broccoli and cabbage. It is not too late to plant another sowing of carrots and peas, keep them growing strongly before the weather becomes cold. Bare patches of ground in the vegetable patch can be sown with green manure to be dug in early in the spring. Top In the native garden trim kangaroo paws which have finished flowering to encourage new growth and stronger flowers. Cut everything off at ground level leaving only about 5cm of foliage, apply some slow release fertilizer for native plants, water deeply and they will reward you with a beautiful display in spring. Bracteantha bracteata is a golden flowered everlasting daisy which enjoys a free draining soil in sun or part shade, trim the spent flower heads to encourage further flowers and this native daisy will produce year round colour in frost free conditions. Leptospermum “Little Bun” is a small dense mounding shrub to 45cm high and 1m wide with soft lemon scented foliage. A profusion of lime-cream flowers covers the foliage in late spring and summer. It is excellent for insect foraging birds such as scrub wrens. Grows easily on most sites. Leptospermum “Kiwi” is another hardy, low growing shrub to 50cm high and 1m wide. Reddish-pink flowers are borne in spring against burgundy-purple foliage which ages to dark green, it tolerates most soil conditions and makes an ideal low hedge. Correa “Win’s Wonder” is a small to medium shrub with attractive green and gold foliage. A form of Correa “mannii” it has deep pinky red flowers in winter and early spring. Growth is to 1.5m high and1.2m wide and it tolerates extended dry conditions. Soft grey foliage with a silvery variegation is a feature of Westringia “Smokie” which flowers for most of the year. An excellent screen or hedge plant,it can also be used for topiary and looks terrific in Mediterranean style gardens with lavenders and rosemary. For spectacular flowers it is difficult to surpass Grevillea “Robyn Gordon”, a small to medium shrub to 2m tall and 3m wide with bright green new leaves. Leaves are divided, about 20cm long and fernlike and it flowers for most of the year. Enjoy the milder temperatures which are coming our way, get out in the garden and enjoy the colours of autumn, the crisp mornings and a new gardening year. Happy gardening Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery. TOP

NEWSLETTER – December 2007

Vol1 No9

Welcome to the December newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

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December has arrived and as our thoughts turn toward Christmas and summer holidays we need to attend to some important tasks in the garden before we can relax and enjoy the holiday season. The Vegie PatchIn the vegetable garden there is still time to plant tomatoes, eggplant and capsicum seedlings, plant in the cool of the evening and keep well watered and they will thrive in the warmth.Plant some basil seedlings as companions to your tomatoes both in the garden and on your plate.Climbing and bush beans planted now will reward you with massive crops.Continue to plant or sow lettuce, beetroot and radish in order to maintain a steady supply for the salad bowl.A fortnightly application of liquid fertiliser will keep them growing strongly and prevent them bolting to seed in the higher temperatures.Cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini and sweetcorn can still be planted and will astound you with their rate of growth now that soil temperatures are so high.The ornamental gardenIn the ornamental garden plant cosmos, dahlia, petunia, celosia, cleome, impatiens, nasturtium, phlox, portulaca, salvia, ageratum and aster.If you haven’t already done so it’s time to divide rhizomatous iris such as bearded iris.Dividing now reduces the risk of rot or infection from wet soil for these sun loving plants. Take care not to cover the rhizome with soil, just tuck the roots into the soil.Roses have now finished their spring flush, deadhead to ensure continuous flowering, prune back old canes on once flowering roses, to ensure fresh growth for next years flowers.Remember to prune or clip lightly this month to avoid exposing soft growth to the harsh summer sun, your plants can suffer sunburn too!Remove spent spring annuals which are past their best, leave some like poppies, larkspur and foxgloves to self seed for next year.

Daffodils have died back sufficiently for untidy growth to be removed, they can be left in the ground or dug and stored in a dry airy place until February.

Trim back lavenders which have finished flowering to keep them bushy and promote more flowers.

Oriental and Asiatic lilies are delighting us with their superb flower heads at the moment and Christmas lilies are about to burst into bloom in time for Christmas floral displays.

While spring is the optimum time for planting trees and shrubs it is still possible to plant provided a few precautions are taken.

Plant in the late afternoon or on an overcast day, water well and do not allow the plant to dry out at any stage.

Use a seaweed fertiliser to minimize transplant shock and encourage root growth.

If the weather becomes hot and windy cover with shade cloth during the day.

The Orchard

In the fruit garden liquid feed strawberries, raspberry plants and red and blackcurrant bushes.

Gooseberry bushes can be thinned and the unripe fruit used for cooking, the fruit will not all ripen at once, so you may need to pick the berries several times.

Black and redcurrants will also ripen over several weeks. The simplest method of preserving bush fruits is to freeze them.

Harvest raspberries and other cane fruits carefully as they become squashed and bruise very easily.

Keep strawberry beds free of weeds and check ripening strawberries every day, pick when fruits are red all over.
Cherry and pear slugs will appear this month on pear, cherry, plum and almonds.

Use a pyrethrum spray when the first damage appears.

Cherries will have been harvested in most places by the middle of December and cherry plums are ripening, be ready to net trees as fruits ripen to lessen fruit loss from birds and possums.

Cherries and plums need little pruning apart from the removal of dead or congested growth.

Sour cherries are produced on one year old wood and should be pruned immediately after the fruit is harvested.

Plum and sweet cherry trees produce most of their fruit at the base of one year old and older shoots.

Watch apples for telltale signs of penetration frass indicating the presence of codling moth. Pull off all damaged fruit and destroy.

Pick fruit as soon as it is ripe. Plums can be picked slightly under ripe and stored in the salad compartment of your refrigerator for a couple of weeks.

Nectarines, sweet cherries and peaches do not mature after picking so do not harvest until they have ripened on the tree.

Enjoy!

Waterwise Gardening.

Early summer is the time to set up the garden for the hotter days which are ahead of us.

Lawns should not be cut too short. Cut only the top third of leaf area and save lawn clippings for use as mulch on your garden.

Choose your lawn carefully and go for slow growing, water saving, drought tolerant varieties.

Gardening with the Australian climate in mind is a quite recent phenomenon in this country, the introduction of a user pays system of water usage and the effect of the recent drought on our water storage systems has given us cause to reflect on the way we garden and our use of a scarce resource.

Remember that one dripping tap can waste up to 2000 litres of water a month so check outdoor taps and pipes for leaks.

While we have all been heartened by recent rains and the easing of water restrictions valuable lessons have been learned along the way.

Many Australian plants are excellent and require no artificial watering once established, however as there are many climatic zones within our country ranging from tropical rainforests to snowfields, it follows that we cannot plant any native plant, anywhere, and expect it to survive.

We need to choose plants from our own or a similar climatic zone.

Many of the exotics in our gardens surprised us by toughing out the drought and surviving well, not so surprising perhaps, when we realise that many of them come from climates around the world similar to our own.

With careful planning, a little research, and some preparation, we can create colourful and imaginative gardens which have low water needs.

It is always useful to talk to other gardeners and to observe what grows well in your area.
A water efficient garden does not mean that we cannot enjoy a water feature such as a fountain or pond, a recirculating pump will use very little water and we can enjoy the sight and sound of water on the hottest day.

Grow a waterlily in a large pot if you have limited space and pop in a goldfish or two for added pleasure and to deal with mosquito larvae.

We have a range of attractive and beautiful water plants for a lovely cooling effect on a hot day.

If water restrictions in your area permit, consider installing a drip irrigation system, there is very little wastage and water goes exactly where needed.

Remove weeds as they appear as they will rob your plants of nutrients and moisture.

Use mulch and add compost to your soil, this will add valuable nutrients and humus which will feed your plants and help to retain moisture.

A good layer of mulch will make an enormous difference to the amount of water you use in your garden; it is possible to reduce evaporation from soil by 70 per cent with a thick layer of mulch.

Mulch protects the roots of plants and lower temperatures under the mulch allow tender roots to continue to grow in the topsoil.

Organic mulches allow rain or irrigation to filter through into the soil below trapping the moisture and reducing the rate of evaporation.

Placing drippers under mulch is the most efficient way to irrigate to reduce evaporation.

Plants feed off the nutrients in the mulch as it decomposes, however if the materials in the mulch are of a woody nature it is wise to add a small amount of nitrogenous fertiliser like blood and bone to offset nitrogen loss from the decomposition of these particles.

Organic mulches are very beneficial for the health of your plants however non-organic mulches such as crushed rock and pebbles, are useful in areas where a decorative effect is required, unfortunately they can trap leaves and twigs and become untidy.

Keep mulch away from the stems of plants to avoid fungal diseases and rotting. The exceptions here are sweetcorn and tomatoes which enjoy mulch close around the stems.

Water roots and soil around the plants, watering leaves and flowers wastes water and increases the risk of fungal diseases.

Relax in your garden and water by hand with a trigger nozzle, you can ensure your plants get just the right amount of water and check what is happening in your garden at the same time.

Watering your garden in the cool of early morning, or in the evening cuts down evaporation and water loss.

Water less often, one of the lessons learned from the drought is that many of our plants can get by on much less water than we have been accustomed to giving them.

Create micro climates within your garden; group plants with similar water needs together, different plants need different amounts of water, if you mix them up you are likely to use more water than you need to.

Group your pots together, this creates a moister atmosphere and pots do not dry out so quickly.

Try to avoid windy spots in the garden, this dries your pots out very quickly.

Use a good quality potting mix and a layer of mulch to conserve moisture.

Use water storing crystals and soil wetter, these are different and are used in different ways.

Water crystals absorb and hold moisture and in doing so they change from dry granules to a jelly like substance which needs to be placed in the root area of the plant when planting, or in vertical holes in the region of the roots.

Do not sprinkle them on the soil surface as they will draw moisture out of the ground and that is something you don’t want!

Soil wetting agents are applied to the top of the soil, this ensures that water travels efficiently through the soil to plant roots and minimizes wasteful run off.

For Gardeners At Christmas

With the festive season just around the corner remember the gardener(s) in your life.

We have a selection of beautiful pots, potted roses and oriental and Asiatic lilies and of course it is not Christmas without a poinsettia!

For the native enthusiast we have many beautiful plants to choose from and for that special person a very special plant, A standard grevillea…… beautiful and unusual.

A citrus tree is always welcome and will give fruit and pleasure for many years.

For the really keen gardener, gloves, hanging baskets, water crystals, soil wetter and fertiliser, will always be welcome and a change from socks, ties and soaps.

We are at the end of another year and how quickly it has flown by; we would like to thank everyone for giving the nursery such tremendous support throughout the year.

We look forward to another year in the garden as summer wanes and autumn approaches.

In the meantime, a very Happy Christmas and New Year to everybody,

Enjoy the holidays,

Happy Gardening,

Marg and the team at Meredith Nursery.

November Newsletter

Vol1 No8

Welcome to the November newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

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November is a wonderful month, the garden is full of colour and fragrance, roses are blooming and all the planning and planting done in winter and early spring can be enjoyed.
Now is a good time to visit open gardens, we can be inspired by a different approach to colour and garden design, observe plants growing and flowering in different situations, or simply just enjoy another garden. It is also helpful in planning, as the garden moves on, and even in the midst of a blaze of spring growth and colour we must plan ahead for next season.
Cast a critical eye over the parts of your garden which have not performed as well as you might like and be prepared to make changes.
Gardens by their very nature are constantly changing and evolving as plants grow and mature or simply fail to thrive.
Most gardeners have been heartened by an easing of water restrictions; however we must still continue to use water as efficiently and sparingly as possible.
Mulching is probably the most important task this month and organic mulches such as pea straw, sugarcane, compost and grass clippings will conserve water and improve your soil as they decay.
Pull out weeds as soon as you see them, they compete with your plants for food and moisture and if you can prevent them from seeding you will have less weeding.
Organize watering systems for the hotter days ahead in line with watering restrictions in your area.
Soil temperatures are warmer now and with daylight hours lengthening this is the best time of the year to plant and sow and reap the rewards.The Vegie patch
In the vegetable patch keep plants growing strongly with fortnightly applications of liquid manure and seaweed solution, sow seeds or plant seedlings of sweet corn, tomatoes, zucchini, carrot, pumpkin, beans, eggplant, cucumber, beetroot and capsicum and red hot chillies if you like some heat in your food.
Mulch tomato plants well to ensure an even supply of moisture and prevent the incidence of blossom end rot.
We have managed to procure some good supports for taller tomatoes. They are simple to slot together can be used in the garden bed or pot and can be packed away after use for next year.
Climbing and bush beans planted now will reward you with massive crops, be sure to mulch these well too.
Lettuce and other leafy greens must be grown quickly, so need to be watered and fed consistently, give them a shady spot in midsummer and choose varieties which can be picked a few leaves at a time.
Spring onions are easily grown from seed, give them a handful of dolomite limestone raked into the soil, sprinkle the seeds over this, cover with a thin layer of soil and water well.
Celery is another plant which likes a fertile soil which has been limed, acidic soil is death to celery and it is impossible to over water this plant.
Cabbages are useful salad vegetables and are easily raised from seed. Small, tasty heads should be ready in about 10 weeks. For a faster result try Asian cabbages such as Wong Bok.
For the little gardeners in the family radishes will be up in a few days and ready to eat in a few weeks. Water well and feed weekly.
For those who have limited space, try some of these salad vegetables in pots in a sunny courtyard or outside the kitchen door for easy access.
Ensure compost remains moist as the weather warms up, the micro-organisms which break down the compost need moisture to stay alive.The herb garden
In the herb garden Geranium Citrosa has a superb lemon rose fragrance when brushed or watered. Suitable for desserts and herb teas it thrives in dry exposed sunny positions and grows 70cm high and 1m wide.
Golden oregano is and attractive herb with golden foliage and dainty pink flowers in summer and don’t let us forget those hardy old favourites sage, thyme, rosemary and chives.
The globe artichoke is a great addition to the garden for those who enjoy its unique flavour, for those who don’t it is still a striking architectural plant for the potager or formal garden.The ornamental garden
In the ornamental garden feed hydrangeas and fuchsias with complete fertiliser.
Prune spring flowering shrubs such as viburnums, lilacs and spireas after they finish flowering to encourage compact growth and blooms next spring. Fertilise them with blood and bone.
A viburnum which is most attractive is V. Plicatum Lanarth “Pink Beauty” deciduous, with good autumn colour; it has flower heads which resemble a lacecap hydrangea.
Prune once flowering roses immediately after flowering is finished as they need an entire season to produce flowering wood for next spring.
Deadhead roses to keep them flowering (Watch our video) and watch for aphid attack.
Container grown roses can still be planted, they make great gifts for keen gardeners and for busy people, we will gift wrap them for you.
The David Austin rose ‘The Endeavour” is a medium sized shrub with a beautiful pink flower, typical of the gorgeous roses we have come to expect from David Austin.
For rich colours Burgundy Iceberg and High Society are striking while the aptly named Marilyn Monroe is golden with a pinkish glow. Simply Magic is pink and pretty, a dainty floribunda bush rose.Lightly prune daisies and lavenders which have finished flowering to encourage another flush of flowers and keep bushes compact.
Pick off seed heads on poppies, larkspur, cornflower and other spring annuals to keep them flowering longer.
November is a great time to plant gladiolus corms for late summer colour.
Plant about 10cm deep in fertile soil in a sunny well drained position.
Plant seeds and seedling of viola, verbena carnation, zinnia, statice, gerbera, lavender, dianthus, scabiosa, sunflower, strawflowers, petunias, salvia and snapdragons.

Bloom Master Hanging Baskets
We have obtained the new range of hanging baskets from Bloom Master Australia.
Made of high quality poly-propylene and UV treated and the unique design means that potting mix will not wash out of the holes when watered.
Simply plant the side openings and the top with the plants of your choice.
The result is a huge ball of flowers to hang from verandah or patio. Plant a selection of colours or try red and white petunias for an outdoor Christmas.
Try planting cascade petunias, ivy geraniums, trailing lobelia, nemesia, impatiens, nerembergia and many more.
A variety of mixed vegetables and/or herbs, or strawberries and tomatoes make a great patio garden.
Another great gift idea.

Mediterranean gardens
Mediterranean gardens have become increasingly popular as the need for more drought tolerant gardens has become apparent.
The English plantswoman Beth Chatto has been at the forefront of this of this style of gardening and her gardens at Colchester, Essex, are in an area which has one of the lowest rainfalls in Britain.
Although plants in her garden survive on natural rainfall, the combination of plants such as cistus, diascia, poppy and vervain give a feeling of lightness and delicacy despite their toughness.
The sedums are tough, attractive autumn flowering plants suitable for many different garden situations.
Sedum spectabile has decorative heads of pink flowers, tolerates full sun dry periods and frost, S. Ruby Glow enjoys the same conditions and has rosy red flowers from summer to autumn.
Sedum selskianum has bright yellow flowers over summer and bright green foliage.
Sedum “Stardust” has large creamy / white flower heads in autumn and summer.
All of these sedums look great with other garden plants and make great pot specimens for courtyards and barbeque areas
The tough and colourful Osteospermans have daisy like flowers, grow to 50-60cm and have flowers in a variety of attractive colours.
For something really different try the Cape Daisy Osteospermum ecklonii Aksullo Nasinga Purple, with quaint spoon shaped petals above lush green foliage.
Easy to care for these hardy plants require clipping back hard after flowering to encourage a bushy habit and plentiful flowers.
Agapanthus are tough drought tolerant plants with glossy foliage and tall flower heads in shades of blue or white in summer.
Dwarf varieties make excellent border plants and mingle well in the cottage garden. Remember to prune off flower stems as the flowers fade, to prevent them from setting seed.
The variety “Black Pantha” is sterile and does not set seed.
Cytisus X Dallimorei “Volcano is a small compact growing broom from the U.K. Volcano flowers for many weeks during spring and summer with a display of ruby red and yellow flowers.
Cut back after flowering to keep compact and bushy.
The Proteas and Leucospermums are spectacular plants which have low water needs.
They enjoy well drained soil in a sunny position and need to be given some summer watering until established.
Low phosphorus fertilisers are the safest to use with these relatives of our own native plants.
Leucospermum patersonii “Tiara” is a medium sized shrub which has yellow to orange flowers in profusion in spring.
L. “Moonlight” has vibrant golden flowers in spring and has excellent cut flower properties.
L. thymifolium has small yellow flowers in spring followed by purple-crimson cones
Protea “White Crown” has creamy white flowers, again a good cut flower with a delicate appearance often used in bridal bouquets.
Protea Candy, a hybrid of Protea longifolia is a hardy evergreen shrub with narrow leaves and large pink flowers from autumn through to spring.
For a softer appearance, Protea White Pearl (Protea nerifolia) grows 2.5 m high and 2m wide, the large white flowers are borne in winter.

For a touch of grey in the garden Cheiranthus “Winter Joy” is a great old standby.
Flowering constantly through the duller months of the year, it has attractive mauve flowers against grey green foliage.
Cut back hard after flowering to prevent the plant from becoming woody.
As a foil for old roses, lavenders and other flowering plants, the beautiful Pyrethrum “Silver Lace” is delicate in appearance but hardy and easily grown.
Growing to 90cm high, it likes full sun and looks stunning in a deep pink or black container.
The huge popularity enjoyed by the lavender family is well deserved, lavenders belong to the Lamiaceae (Labiatae) family a group of plants that include the sages (Salvia) and the mints (Mentha), they are shrubby aromatic perennial plants which can be planted as hedges or borders, or massed amongst roses and perennials, where their soft colours and spicy fragrance are a perfect backdrop for other plants.

Lavenders are easily grown; plenty of sunlight and a well drained soil are the most important prerequisites when choosing a site.
They are adaptable to most soil types except heavy poorly drained clay.
Prune after flowering to keep the plant shapely and encourage flowering.
Plants which are not well pruned will become woody and unattractive and will need to be replaced.
It is time to divide rhizomatous iris which should be divided every 3-5 years, or if clumps have become overcrowded and flowering spikes are diminishing.
Lift clump using a garden fork, shake the soil from the roots and cut the leaves `into a fan shape. Divide and replant making sure the roots are planted but leave the top of the rhizome exposed. Water in well.
Echium is another hardy plant for the dry garden. The spectacular blue flower spikes are borne on the plant in Spring.
The waterwise garden does not need to be dull or unattractive, many of our best loved plants were chosen by the early gardeners in our country for their toughness under adverse conditions, then as now, water was sometimes a scarce commodity, yet the remnants of many early colonial gardens still remain.

The native garden
In the native garden Callistemons are putting on a wonderful display this year and most are a blaze of scarlet at the moment.
Prune these immediately after they finish flowering to keep them from becoming leggy and unattractive.
A stunning new plant is Agonis flexuosa “Burgundy”, its graceful weeping habit and strong burgundy new growth will enhance and add interest to any style of garden.
To 5m high and 3m wide it is frost hardy, suitable for coastal planting and enjoys a sunny position in well drained soil.
During mid spring small white tea-tree like flowers bloom on the ends of its branches.
Isopogon formosus “Rose Cone Flower” is an upright evergreen shrub with large pink flowers in spring.
Excellent for cut flowers and can be grown in mixed garden beds.
Prune after flowering to maintain compact growth.
Isopogon anemonifolius “Sunshine” is a selected form of the Broad Leaf Drumsticks from eastern New South Wales and features attractive foliage and new growth with well displayed bright yellow cone flowers in spring.
Drought, frost and coastal tolerant, to 1m in height it is an excellent refuge and food source for native birds.
Grevillea “Lemon Supreme” a hybrid grevillea from G. thelemanniana X G. olivacea has produced an evergreen fast growing shrub to 1.5m x 1.5m.
The masses of lemon yellow flowers are a delight in winter and spring.
Suitable for most soils, coastal planting, drought tolerant and attractive to birds.
Grevillea “Emma Charlotte” is a prostrate Australian native which flowers profusely through winter and spring; flowers are deep pink and highly attractive to birds.
Some summer watering is recommended until established.
Grevillea “Scarlet Sprite” grows 1-2 m tall in a sunny position, has deep green foliage and scarlet flowers in spring.
Grevillea “Firesprite” has terminal brushes 8-10cm on and off throughout the year and is extremely attractive.
An informal hedge or screen makes this a colourful addition to any garden.
Parrots and honeyeaters will flock to its flowers making this an ideal choice for the bird lovers garden.
A truly exotic native Elaeocarpus reticulatus, “Blueberry Ash” is an evergreen tall shrub/ small tree that is native to the east coast of Australia from Queensland to Tasmania.
It is a hardy plant that will grow best in moist well drained soil but will survive well in less favourable conditions.
Blueberry Ash has dense green foliage that responds well to pruning and makes and excellent hedge or screening plant.
Masses of small pink bell shaped flowers in spring and summer are aniseed scented. Small blue berries follow which attract native birds

The fruit garden
In the fruit garden there is still time to plant citrus so why not try one of our Australian native citrus, the Australian Sunrise Lime, a variety developed by the CSIRO.
It has small fruit with a sharp fresh flavour, great in jams or to eat fresh, with seafood or in stir fries and really delicious over barbequed fish.
Grow in a sunny spot with good drainage, excellent in a pot.
Feed with a potassium based fertiliser once flowering commences.
Passionfruit can still be planted, try a “Nellie Kelly grafted black passionfruit in a warm well drained spot, give it something to climb on and you will have delicious passionfruit for many years.
Cherries, plums and other stone fruits are growing larger and our feathered friends will be lying in wait so it is probably a good time to net fruit trees which are prone to attack.

Take time to enjoy the flowers and the birds,

Marg and the team at Meredith Nursery.

NEWSLETTER – October 2007

Welcome to the October newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

October

October is a wonderful month in the garden, the garden is a mass of fresh green growth, flowers are blooming, the swelling buds on the roses are full of promise and it is impossible not resist the urge to dig and plant, even the mundane task of weeding is not so bad on a beautiful spring day.

Now is a good time to mulch garden plants with compost, or an organic mulch like pea straw in preparation for the hotter temperatures of summer.
The Vegetable Garden:

The soil is now warm enough to plant a range of summer growing vegetables so get them in as soon as possible. Top of the list is tomatoes; plant these in a bed which has not grown tomatoes recently. Select a site in full sun which is not too sheltered as they need some wind for pollination. In very hot regions some shade may be beneficial. Tomatoes enjoy moist well drained soil with some organic matter such as well decomposed animal manure, compost or dynamic lifter added.

Soil pH is very important, an application of lime or dolomite on acid soil is necessary as tomatoes do not like acid soil.

“Blossom end rot” in tomatoes ,where the base of the tomato becomes deformed and rotten, is caused by calcium deficiency and is alleviated by the application of lime, Fluctuation in the moisture content in the soil will exacerbate this condition. Mulching tomatoes will help to keep soil moist, fruit clean and prevent competition from weeds.

Staking is necessary particularly with tall varieties.

As well as all the old favourites we have some other interesting varieties this season, “Sweet Grape”has attractive small egg shaped fruit and “San Marzano has elongated oval fruit both are deep red.

Capsicum and peppers are another summer crop which can be planted now, also in a sunny spot and like tomatoes they are lime lovers.

The foliar application of fish or seaweed fertiliser will prevent magnesium deficiency.

Sweetcorn enjoys the same conditions as peppers, an open sunny position in a site which is not too sheltered.

Nitrogen rich soil and a thick mulch will ensure the best conditions for your crop. The best pollination is obtained by planting corn in blocks rather than rows.

Pumpkins, zucchini, squash and cucumbers all enjoy rich soil and ample moisture.

Blood and bone with some added potash (1 cup blood and bone to about 1 teaspoon potash) and seaweed or fish fertiliser will satisfy the nutrient hungry curcubit family.

In gardens with limited space bush varieties like “Golden Nugget can be grown.

Cucumbers prefer a soil which has had some lime added but otherwise enjoy the same conditions as their cousins, the pumpkins.

Mulch well as moist soil is imperative for these plants.

Good air flow is also helpful to prevent the development of powdery mildew.

Keep planting plenty of lettuce for summer salads, leaf lettuce which can be harvested a few leaves at a time is preferable to head lettuce where the entire plant must be harvested.

Leaf types with different coloured and shaped leaves can be a decorative feature as well as providing tasty salads.

Plant beetroot, celery, carrot, parsnip, beans, cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli, silver beet and spring onion.

Keep plants growing with a fortnightly application of liquid manure.

Don’t forget it is important to rotate your crops each year to prevent disease.
The Home Orchard:

In the home orchard bare root planting has finished until next year, keep a close watch on new plantings and be sure to keep well mulched to avoid drying out around roots.

This month is an excellent time to plant citrus as planting in mid winter cold is too stressful for heat loving citrus.

For those who enjoy Thai food we have Citrus hystrix, the kaffir lime, an attractive plant to 4m. which produces the leaves used in Thai cooking.

The freshly picked leaves impart a flavour which is superior to the dried variety.

The knobbled green fruit is quite ornamental.

The Tahitian Lime is another citrus much prized for cooking.

For lovers of grapefruit we have G. Marsh, G. Thompson’s Pink and G. Wheeny.

Allow the fruit to ripen on the tree as long as possible to develop sweetness.

For a sunny courtyard try a cumquat in an ornamental pot, with dark green leaves and small orange fruit these attractive little trees will bring a Mediterranean feel to your garden and supply you with delicious cumquat marmalade.

The lemon is an attractive tree which bears for most of the year, often having fruit at varying stages of maturity at the one time, no garden should be without one of these hardy trees.

We have Lisbon, Eureka and Thornless as well as the Lemonade; this is an unusual citrus, a cross between a Meyer lemon and a true lemon.

It can be eaten straight from the tree and breaks into segments like an orange or mandarin.

For eating try Oranges, Mandarin Imperial, or Ellendale or Tangelo Seminole.

Growing Citrus.

Good drainage is essential; citrus will be short lived if planted on consistently wet subsoil.

Trees budded on trifoliata rootstock are more resistant to wet soils.

Build soil up above surrounding soil if drainage is suspect.

When planting citrus, keep the bud union is at least 10cm. above soil level, plant with the soil at the same level as in the container.

Make the hole about12 inches wider than the container, a little well rotted compost may be added, but don’t add manures or fertiliser

Soil should be moist at planting time, water well when planting is completed and mulch liberally with a mulch such as pea straw.

Water regularly over warmer months and avoid cultivating around surface roots.

If you have old lemon tree which is looking somewhat tired, now is the time to cut out all the twiggy growth and branches.

Follow this with a deep watering and your tree will take on a new lease of life.

In the home orchard it is also time to plant passionfruit, valued for their juicy seed filled pulp.

Passionfruit vines should be given a sunny site, sheltered from cold winds and frost.

Soil must be well drained and should not become dry in the early days after planting.

To ensure the plant grows well in the first year, apply a little fertiliser every 4-6 weeks.

Passionfruit vines have a tendency to become deficient in manganese, apply a foliage spray of 5g of manganese sulphate per litre of water.

Give your vine something to climb on and be sure to provide moisture when the plant is in fruit.

Fruit is produced on shoots which grow from the previous seasons growth.

Mulch to conserve moisture.
The Herb Garden:

In the herb garden plant old favourites like chives, mint, rocket, wormwood and pennyroyal.

Mint has a tendency to get around where conditions are favourable so is best in a pot near the kitchen door.

Don’t forget to grow heaps of basil for a delicious addition to tomato dishes.

For those who enjoy Asian stir fries and soups try Laksa leaf (Vietnamese coriander). For a damp spot in the garden try Brahmi, this combines well with Chinese green tea to make a pleasant drink.

The Ornamental Garden:

In the ornamental garden many bulbs have finished flowering. Resist the urge to “tidy up” these plants.

It is important to allow the foliage to die down in order to feed the bulb for next season.

Mark the location of your bulbs to avoid damaging them while the are dormant.

Dutch and bearded iris are delighting us this month as are ixia, sparaxis, scilla and miniature gladiolus.

Flowering cherries, crabapples and plums have almost finished their spring display now, mulch them well in preparation for the summer ahead.

Roses are just coming into bloom so watch for aphid attack on buds and leaf tips.

Ladybirds and their larvae often move into the garden at this point and will quickly decimate their numbers, if this is not the case a spray of water or soapy water will dislodge them.

Harlequin bugs will be coming out of hibernation with the first warm days, hit them with a generous squirt of household detergent in a spray bottle of water, it never fails!

Plant seedlings of summer flowering annuals, choose from petunias in white, burgundy or butter cream, lobelia, snapdragon “crackle”, which has bright red and yellow flowers on compact plants and many more for a lovely summer display.

A lovely little perennial which is happy with wet or dry feet is Tulbaghia violacea “Society garlic”, it has dainty pink flowers during spring and summer.

For the dry garden those indestructible old favourites which are commonly named Pigface, or Iceplant, come in a range of vivid colours;

Mesembryanthemum in gold, candy pink, red, pink, orange and M. crystallinum “Pete’s Red” and Drosanthemum hispidum “Pink Champagne”.

Erepsia pillansii, “Catherine Wheel” is a very attractive newcomer in deep pink and white and it really does look just like a Catherine wheel!

Other plants with low water needs are the Marguerite daisies, and of course the lavenders, both these plants fit gracefully in amongst other garden plants, define areas of the garden when used as attractive informal low hedges, look terrific in pots and provided they are clipped following flowering will remain attractive for many years.

An attractive little clumping plant for the cottage garden is Armeria “Bee’s Ruby” this is a bright pink and looks wonderful planted near Veronica peduncularis “Georgia Blue” which is a mat forming perennial with intense blue flowers over a long period.

Strelitzia Reginae (Bird of Paradise) is an eye catching plant, it forms a large clump of long stalked leaves which are an attractive bluish green and it has striking orange and blue flowers.

It looks great as a feature plant in a modern garden or as an accent plant in the courtyard. Try it in a black pot for a great effect.

Plant it in rich well drained soil, apply a dressing of compost, well rotted manure or complete plant food in spring. Keep moist in warm weather.

Another excellent feature plant is Cordyline australis “Red Star”,which grows to 2m. has ruby red to burgundy leaves, will grow in coastal conditions and also looks stunning in a black pot.

Astelia chathamica “Silver Spear” is another architectural plant which looks great in the garden or in a pot. The sword shaped silver foliage is topped by creamy white flowers in spring.

For those who want something pretty, Serruria florida x rosea is a plant best grown in a container.

It has dainty long lasting flowers and makes an excellent gift, try a hot pink or bright blue pot.

A very attractive small to medium shrub Raphiolepis x “Pink India Hawthorn” has tough green leaves and clusters of rose pink flowers over a long period in spring.

The flowers are followed by black berries. Another good one for coastal conditions.

Box hedges should be clipped by now, they have proven to be very tolerant of dry conditions once established

Give them some care when first planted and fertilise in spring.

Another great hedging shrub Ligustrum undulatum “ Lemon Lime and Clippers”is a small compact shrub with a lemon-lime foliage colour which provides contrasting colour in the garden.

It will grow as a dense hedge to 2m. or as a trimmed low hedge. Good for topiary too.
Layering:

Layering…… we have had some queries about the reference to layering in the September newsletter.

Layering is a method of getting a low growing shoot which is still attached to the parent plant to produce roots.

Some plants do this naturally and will form new plants around and under the parent plant wherever a shoot touches the ground, others have to be encouraged to do this.

Choose a shoot that can be easily pegged to the ground.

Trim off the leaves from the area which will be in contact with the soil.

Make a hole about 10cm. deep, slit the stem slightly to injure it, apply a little hormone rooting compound then peg into the hole with bent wire.

Cover with soil and keep moist.

When the plant has formed a root system sever from the parent plant.

Compound layering……. Plants such as wisteria and clematis which produce long shoots can be layered several times along the stem.

Air layering……is a method of layering where the stems cannot be lowered to the ground.

Remove the leaves at the point on the stem where you wish to make the layer.

Using a knife make a slit about 2.5cm long below a leaf joint.

Use a little hormone rooting compound on the wound.

Pack a little sphagnum moss into the wound.

Pack plenty of sphagnum moss around the stem and cover with plastic secured top and bottom with tape.

Keep the moss moist and check for roots in about a month.

Sever from parent plant when roots are have formed.
The Water Garden:

In the water garden the American Blue Flag Iris and the exquisite Japanese Iris look wonderful on the margins of a pool.

The Zebra rush, Schoenoplectus lacustris “Zebrinus” is a most unusual plant for the margins of your pool, it has green and creamy bands along the stem giving a lovely cool dappled effect.

Dies back in winter in southern Australia.

Triglochin procerum, Water ribbons is a native waterplant with strap like leaves which float on the surface of the water and are excellent shelter for fish

Greenish yellow flower spikes are used as a food source by waterbirds.
The Native Garden:

In the native garden the honeyeaters are busy, lots of blossoms on grevilleas, callistemons and banksias,

G. “Winpara Gem”has lots of striking red spider`flowers tipped with gold, G.”Apricot Glow” has beautiful reddish gold flowers and G.”Poorinda Blondie has spectacular long red/gold toothbrush flowers.

A spreading ground cover G.”Carpet Crawl” covers 2-3metres, grows 40-65cm high and has bronze-red foliage.

The toothbrush flowers are deep purple-red and appear throughout the year.

The foliage and flowers provide a safe habitat for honeyeaters and wrens.

It makes a good living mulch and is great for steep slopes and banks or tumbling over walls. Frost hardy and also suitable for coastal planting.

The prostrate form of Banksia integrifolia “B. Roller Coaster” is another worthwhile groundcover.

It has a spread of 1.5-2m. across, has bright lemon flowers from summer to mid winter and is moderately fast growing.

Best in well drained soils,it tolerates moderate frosts and thrives in coastal situations . A good landscape plant, it also looks great in a large container.

Callistemon “Western Glory” has clusters of mauve-red flowers over a long period, is tolerant of wet or dry-limey soils, makes a great informal hedge or feature plant.

Tip prune to encourage flowers.

For those who enjoy the sight of wattle in bloom Acacia elata, the cedar wattle has fragrant golden blooms in summer, is long lived and fast growing.

It prefers moist well drained soils and needs some protection from frost when young.

Height at maturity is 12m. and eventual width is 9m.

Acacia howittii, the sticky wattle has pale yellow flowers and a graceful weeping habit which lends itself to many landscape situations.

The Australian paper daisy Bracteantha bracteata “Sundaze Flame” has gold, orange and bronze flowers for most of the year.

A terracotta or black pot will set this plant off to perfection.

In the garden this plant blends well with Eutaxia obovata, and attractive shrub 1-2.5m which has pea shaped yellow and red flowers from winter to early summer.

A good screening plant which tolerates windy sites, tip prune when young to encourage healthy growth.

It needs a well drained soil and protection from frost.

While most native plants are hardy it is important to remember that they come from a diverse range of climatic zones. Within Australia we have rainforests, coastal heathlands, deserts, alpine snowfields and plains to name a few.

Although it is sometimes possible to create “micro climates” within an area, in most instances in order to avoid disappointment it is wiser to grow species which will thrive in your locality.

We like to provide as much information as possible about all the plants we sell, the practical issues like climate, salinity, water needs, alkalinity, acidity and much more need to be considered when choosing your plants.
Take time to enjoy the gardens in Spring

Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery.

NEWSLETTER – September 2007

Welcome to the September newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

September

Spring has arrived in the garden, blossom trees are flowering, daffodils are nodding their heads in the sunshine and the garden is full of heavenly smells, it is a time of anticipation and renewal for all gardeners, a reward for hard work and planning over Winter. The nursery is bursting at the seams and with more plants arriving daily there is something for everyone. As always the garden moves on and we must plan and work for the months ahead.

In the Spring kitchen garden there is much to be done. Plant seedlings of cabbage, capsicum, silver beet, cucumber, lettuce, chinese cabbage, celery, snowpeas, brussel sprouts and onion.

Plant seeds of carrot, parsnip, radish and peas. Be sure to buy fresh parsnip seed each year as older seed has a poor germination rate.

Tomato plants can go in now in frost free areas, mix some compost into the soil before planting and some blood and bone with added potash will ensure a good start.

Mulch tomato plants close to the stem, this encourages more roots to stabilize and feed the plant.

In frost prone areas protect potato plants by covering them on frosty nights.

Protect vulnerable emerging shoots and seedlings from slugs and snails.

Give fortnightly applications of liquid fertiliser to all seedlings to keep them growing strongly.

Sweet corn, chilli, eggplant, tomato and capsicum can be planted from mid September in most areas except those which have late frosts.

Beds from which winter vegetables have been harvested can be prepared for spring planting, apply a dressing of compost, aged manure and blood and bone with some added potash.

Capsicums and chillies enjoy similar conditions to tomatoes, some aged manure and compost, blood and bone with some added potash and your crop will be off to a good start.

For root crops use a bed that has been manured for a previous crop. Planting root crops in freshly manured soil will case forking of the roots.

Rhubarb can still be planted in heavily manured, mulched soil. A heavy feeder, it needs to be regularly fertilised for best results. Flowering reduces the vigour of the plant so remove any flower stalks as soon as they appear. Do not harvest in the first year to allow the plant to establish. To harvest, a sharp tug is all that is necessary to remove the stalk from the plant.

Compost which is almost ready will benefit from turning, be sure to keep it moist but not wet and cover to produce that dark humus which is such a valuable addition to the garden.
In the herb garden now is a good time to repot mint, apple mint and chives. Do not use high nitrogen inorganic fertilisers on herbs as this will result in soft sappy growth, lacking in the fragrance which is such an essential part of the herb.

Herbs in pots close to the kitchen door tend to be used more often and a larger pot planted with a variety of the more commonly used herbs is both an attractive and useful addition to the patio.

A large shallow pot can be used in the same way to grow a variety of lettuce and salad greens in different colours and textures, for delicious and nutritious salads.

Remember to water herbs in pots and mulch herb beds in spring to conserve moisture and prevent weeds from germinating and competing with your herbs for nutrients, light and moisture.

Clumps of chives and garlic chives can be dug and separated now.

Chives make a wonderful border in the vegetable potager, particularly if allowed to produce their stunning purple flower heads.

Annual herbs such as parsley can be planted now, however basil should not be planted until all danger from frost is over.

In the home orchard last minute plantings can still be made.

Pears to choose from include Josephine, Packham’s Triumph, Corella and Beurre Bosc.

Apples include that wonderful all purpose apple Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, Jonathon and the really delicious Cox’s Orange Pippin.

Amongst the stone fruits the nectarine Firebrite and peaches Alberta, Red Haven and the clingstone variety Pullar are worth consideration.

It is important when you are buying new trees to choose healthy, vigorous specimens, look for a straight, sturdy trunk and several well placed branches that are not too vertical.

This is important as the angle between branch and trunk will determine the strength of the branch in later years and the amount of fruit the tree can carry.

Mulching is all important to retain valuable moisture and ensure the best conditions for your trees as spring gives way to summer.

Kiwi fruit require moist soils with plenty of organic matter added so they should be heavily mulched as summer approaches.

Water in the garden is always attractive and is best kept as simple as possible. A garden pond or even a wooden half-barrel can add another dimension to your garden.

The moist edges of a pond can be planted with the beautiful Louisiana Iris which thrives in moist soils and is superb when in flower, the Japanese Sweet flag which enjoys the same conditions and the beautiful rainbow parsley ”Pink Flamingo” is a spreading herb with pink tipped variegated leaves, great for pond edges.

In the pond the upright water milfoil is a native plant with bright green plumes trailing across the surface of the water. This plant is excellent shelter for fish and as habitat for spawning. The addition of fish deals with the problem of mosquitoes and provides flashes of colour and life in the garden. Beware however of adding ponds to the garden while there are small children in the household.

Include some climbing plants in your garden; they are a crucial element in creating vertical structure. They can be grown against walls or fences and screens and can be grown over arches, pergolas and arbours. Cane tripods and more elaborate ornamental obelisks can be used for seasonal plantings such as sweet peas, runner beans and clematis.

Choose your climber to suit the site and check soil and drainage. It is worthwhile talking to your nursery about eventual height and spread, in order to obtain a plant which best suits your needs.

Where summer shade and winter sun is a requirement then a deciduous plant such as Vitus (Grape) is the best choice, however if you want a rampant grower to hide an ugly shed or structure then the native climber Kennedia nigricans with its striking black and yellow flowers would be a good choice.

Climbers grow in a variety of ways and understanding how they climb will also influence your choice of both plant and support.

Tendril climbers will grow both horizontally as well as vertically, they have tendrils which grab hold of the support available.

Twining plants climb by means of their stems twisting around a vertical support to grow upward.

Clinging plants attach themselves by aerial roots or small sucker pads and need no other support. Beware of attaching them to house walls where they will leave unsightly marks if they have to be removed.

Scrambling climbers do not attach themselves naturally, they depend on shoots being supported by other plants. In the garden they need to be tied to supports to increase height and spread and prevent an unsightly tangle of branches.

Planting climbers

As with all garden plants it is worthwhile taking some trouble initially.

Prepare the ground deeply and thoroughly before planting.

Incorporate some well rotted manure or compost and a handful of blood and bone.

Dig the planting hole to a depth and width larger than the plant’s rootball.

Spread out the roots away from the wall or support.

Plant at the correct depth, firm soil so that the soil mark on the stem is at ground level.

Water in well with seaweed fertiliser and mulch to keep the soil moist.

Some suggested climbers….

Wisteria sinensis (Chinese wisteria) has twining stems and flowers with 20-30 cm racemes in white lilac and purple. Looks superb with the flower trusses hanging through a pergola. Develops a large trunk with age.

Pandorea Jasminoides (“Lady Di”) a dense vigorous climber, delicate white trumpet blooms in summer and autumn. Enjoys moist well drained soils and tolerates light frosts.

Climbing Roses “Pierre de Ronsard” beautiful pink blooms, cupped in old rose fashion fading to palest pink as they age. Prolific bloomer, a breathtaking sight over a garden arch or arbour. Now available as “Red Pierre de Ronsard”, same cupped blooms but a striking red flower.

Vitus (Grape) available in both fruiting and ornamental varieties, which colour beautifully in autumn, vigorous and hardy, good for winter sun and summer shade.
In the rose garden bush roses include Fiona’s Wish, Spirit of Peace,(a buff/apricot rose with a beautiful form), Pink Iceberg, Kardinal, a reliable and much loved red and the David Austin rose, Katherine Morley.

In 3ft standards we have old favourites like Just Joey, Julia’s Rose, Troilus and Cymbaline, and in 8 ft standards the beautiful “New Dawn”. These are just a few of the roses still available for a short time, bare rooted.

In weeping standard flowering trees we have the double crimson weeping peach, a hardy, deciduous tree, which has deep crimson flowers down the branches in a beautiful cascading display.

The weeping mulberry is another lovely deciduous tree; it has glossy green foliage, a beautiful spring display and looks great in pairs, or in rows, for a striking garden feature.

The flowering cherry has pink buds and white pendulous clusters of flowers, quite breathtaking above spring bulbs when in flower.

The weeping elm has a flat topped head of weeping branches, and when mature provides a lot of shade as it forms a garden “room” underneath its branches.

The weeping birch is an attractive tree with typical white trunk topped by graceful weeping foliage.

Two lilacs worthy of mentioning are, Mrs Edward Harding, a semi-double, perfumed magenta/claret coloured shrub and Cora Brandt, which has white flowers in spring.

For a small flowering tree the flowering peach Prunus Persica Versicolor is lovely, deep pink, pale pink and white blossoms cluster together on the tree to produce a breathtaking sight in springtime.

In the dry ornamental garden we have Kniphofia “Traffic Lights” which grows to 40cm.has a striking red and green flower in spring and summer and looks terrific planted with the dwarf agapanthus “Peter Pan”.

For edging try Liriope (Muscari) “Big Blue”, happy in full sun and part shade, is good for coastal conditions, frost tolerant and hardy.

The silky grey leaves of the silver bush (Convolvulus cneonum) lighten the garden and the pink buds in spring and summer become a mass of white flowers.

It likes a sunny position, grows 30-40 cm high and 45cm wide. Drought tolerant when established.

The native garden is a delight with so many beautiful plants available, plant some native plants in your garden, and enjoy both them and the native birds they will bring to your garden.

Amongst the banksias B. Coccinea (Scarlett Banksia) has stunning grey/scarlet flowers in spring and summer, grows 3-5m likes well drained soil and is drought tolerant.

Banksia Spinulosa is a dwarf banksia, which grows to a height of 1.5m and 1m wide, it has large golden flower heads in autumn and winter, likes acidic well drained soil in a sunny position. Prune after flowering.

Banksia Media prostrate has large golden cylindrical flowers in autumn and winter, serrated leaves, grows about 1.5m high and 2m wide. Moist well drained soil, and the addition of a small amount of lime to the soil should ensure success.

A lovely little shrub to 60cm high and wide is Melaleuca Thymifolia “ Cotton Candy” which has deep mauve/pink flowers in winter and spring. Try this in a pinkish terracotta or a deep blue pot for a great effect, Does well in the open garden also.

Hakea “Burrendong Beauty” is a spectacular and hardy plant to1.2m high and 1.5m wide. Pink flowers in winter, and likes a well drained soil.

Waratah “Corroboree”to 3m high and wide is a prolific flowerer, great for attracting birds to the garden, likes well drained soil and is frost hardy when established.

A small eucalypt which is most attractive is E.Platypus Heterophylla the coastal moort, 4-6m high, dense glossy green foliage, smooth light brown bark and fluffy white flowers in spring. Avoid water logged soils, otherwise hardy.

Great for coastal planting is Westringia “White Rambler” a dense evergreen semi prostrate shrub, 1m high and 3m wide which will layer itself. White flowers in spring and summer; this is a great plant for embankment stabilisation.

Smaller grevilleas, “Scarlet Sprite”, “Rock n Rod” and “Jump n Jak”, will flower prolifically bringing honeyeaters to your garden.

Pultenaea Pedunculata which grows 30 cm high and 1.5m wide has yellow and red pea shaped flowers in spring and summer, is a great carpeting plant. Grow in well drained soil. Tolerates short periods of drought.

For that boggy spot in the garden we have many beautiful plants like lomandra and callistemon. These plants happily cope with both wet feet in winter and dry feet in summer making them ideal for that difficult spot in your garden.

Well that’s about it for this month, take a walk around your neighbourhood and enjoy the spring gardens, it is a good chance to see many beautiful plants and trees at their peak and a useful aid in planning your own garden.

Happy Gardening.

Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery.