Meredith Nursery Feb / Mar 2009 Newsletter

In this Issue Vegie Patch Ornamental Garden Soil Preparation & Improvement Native garden Orchard VISIT THE NURSERY February / March Summer in the garden means using whatever water we have available, mulching to conserve moisture and enjoying our gardens in the early mornings and evenings when it is cool and pleasant. With the recent high temperatures it is easy to forget that autumn is just around the corner and we need to plan and prepare for winter and spring. Now is an excellent time to take note of the performance of your plants under very hot and difficult conditions, and perhaps replace those that have struggled, with some of the many plants more suited to our Mediterranean climate. It is also a good time to assess areas of the garden which could benefit from suitable shade trees. Planting a deciduous tree or trees on the north side of the house provides valuable shade and cooling in summer  and allows winter sun to warm your house. In the vegetable patch continue to mulch tomatoes, corn, pumpkins cucumbers beans and capsicum. It is important to get late winter and spring crops in to ensure there isn’t a gap between summer and spring vegetables, delay now means that plants will not make enough growth before the soil temperatures drop in winter. If you can, transplant seedlings early in the morning or evening preferably on an overcast or dull day. Make a hole which is deep enough to contain the roots, fill with soil or compost and gently press down soil around the plant. Water in with seaweed fertilizer and provide some shade if the weather is hot. Plant carrots and parsnips in an area which has been fertilized for a previous crop, fresh manure will cause forking of roots. Deeply dug, friable soil will ensure long tapering roots. Parsnip seed has a very short life so be sure to purchase fresh seed each year. Plant broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower, use compost and dolomite or lime and keep them growing strongly with fortnightly doses of liquid manure. White cabbage month can be a problem at this time of year, small wire tunnels covered in bird netting work very well or you can check the underside of the leaves each day. Plant lettuce in soil which has good humus and nitrogen levels, mulch and keep moist, this will keep them growing strongly and prevent them from becoming bitter. Turnips and swede turnips are great for winter soups and stews, sow directly and thin to 10 cms apart. Silver beet is a biennial which goes to seed in its second season, hardy and prolific it likes nitrogen and a mulch in dry weather. Garlic needs good drainage and soil rich in humus, plant cloves 4 to 5 cms deep. A dressing of lime or dolomite provides the alkaline conditions which beetroot prefers, add some compost and plant about 15cms apart. Keep moist and weed free. In the ornamental garden Roses have again proven to be winners flowering prolifically despite the extreme heat. Now is the time to prune them lightly, fertilize and water for an autumn flush of blooms. Take your secateurs with you into the garden and continue to deadhead perennials and annuals to keep them flowering. Tip prune fuchsias and give a liquid feed to encourage flowering. A sprinkle of lime around hellebores will help developing flower buds, water in well. Fertilize camellias, daphne, rhododendrons, azalea and magnolias now for a beautiful display in late winter and spring. Geraniums (Pelargoniums) should be cut back now to keep them shapely and allow them to put on growth before winter. Group pot plants together, watering is quicker and easier and pots stay moist for longer periods. Cover sensitive plants with shadecloth, if sun damage has already occurred resist the urge to remove the damaged leaves until temperatures become milder in autumn. Remove emerging weeds before they seed and throw them in the compost. Autumn is the best time to divide clivia, agapanthus and daylilies. Prepare soil with some compost and keep them moist. Trim hedges such as box, westringia, lilly pilly and lonicera. Soil Preparation and Improvement. Late summer and early autumn is the best time to prepare soil for winter and spring planting. Any good garden starts with the soil and water wise gardening is no exception, whatever your soil type, (sandy, clay or loam) it will improve, become more friable and have increased water holding capacity with the addition of organic matter. Continue to mulch with animal manures such as sheep, cow, horse or chicken, and mulch  using  peastraw, sugarcane, or your own compost or leaf mould. If soil is acidic add some dolomite or lime, about two handsful per square metre. These materials are necessary for long term soil improvement, forming valuable humus as they decompose. Green Manure Organic matter can be added to the soil by growing a green manure crop which is dug into the soil about six to eight weeks after planting, this is an excellent way of introducing a lot of organic matter into the soil very quickly. Trench Composting A compost trench is a simple alternative to a compost heap and is a method which can be used during autumn and winter when activity slows in compost bins. Most suited for vegetable gardens where nutrient loss is high or for improving soil fertility in specific ares of the garden. In late summer or autumn dig out a trench about 30 cm wide and 30 cm deep. Gradually fill the trench with plant debris, vegetable scraps and other kitchen waste. Dig a second parallel trench and cover the material in the first trench with the soil that has been dug from the second trench. Woody materials such as brassica stems and plant prunings may need to chopped roughly or shredded before being buried. Some pelleted chicken manure or blood and bone to supply nitrogen will help to speed up the process. The Deep Bed System When using the deep bed system  soil is removed to one spade deep and the exposed subsoil in the bottom of the trench is broken up with a garden fork to allow roots to penetrate deeply. Place a generous layer of manure, compost or other organic matter in the bottom of the trench and cover with soil. From this point on cultivation is kept to a minimum and additional organic matter is only added as top dressing or mulch. Making Leafmould. Leafmould is an excellent soil conditioner,a valuable source of organic matter, is simple to make and needs very little preparation. Deciduous tree and shrubs will soon be dropping huge amounts of this valuable soil conditioner so gather it up and put it to use. For large gardens a wire sided bin or pen to hold leaves as they decompose is all that is necessary, while for smaller gardens  black plastic rubbish bags are all that is needed. Rake up fallen leaves after rain and place them in bags or bins. To every 30cm layer of leaves add a handful of organic fertilizer such as pelleted chicken manure, and water thoroughly when bag is full. Over a period of about two years the leaves will decompose and settle to produce mulch or soil conditioner. If this is done every autumn you will always have an excellent supply of mulch or organic matter to add to your soil. To accelerate leaf decay run the lawn mower over them with the grasscatcher attached and empty into bin or bags. Site preparation for revegetation and shelterbelts. Adequate preparation of the site is crucial to the survival of seedling trees and their subsequent growth. Weed control prior to planting and for the first year is the most important step to take to avoid seedling death and stunted growth, competition for stored soil moisture is eliminated and active growth is possible in spring and summer. The site should be deep ripped in late summer/early autumn to achieve soil “shatter”, well tilled soil allows any moisture to be absorbed, better root development and uniformity of growth. Top Water Storing Crystals. Pre soaked water storing  crystals placed in the planting hole or mixed into potting mix or soil, are essential to give your plants the best chance of success. Only small quantities are needed (1/2 teaspoon per plant) and it is important to soak them in a seaweed solution before placing them in the root zone. The crystals absorb the liquid fertilizer and moisture and provide the plant with both nutrients and moisture. Soil Wetting Agents Soil wetting agents come in both liquid and granular form and are particularly useful where soils are water repellant. They break down the water resistant layer on top of the soil preventing wasteful run off, help soil retain moisture longer after rain and move water faster into the root zone. After the prolonged dry summer period soils will benefit from the application of a soil wetting agent to ensure penetration of water and lessen “runoff”. Both these products are invaluable in a waterwise garden In the home orchard it is time to feed citrus, limes, lemons, mandarin, oranges, grapefruit and cumquats. Use a citrus fertilizer or pelleted chicken manure, water well,and mulch. Citrus grow best in well drained loam in full sun with some protection from strong winds, roots grow very close to the surface so avoid deep cultivation and fertilize and mulch out to the dripline. Fertilize other fruit trees from early to mid autumn, good hygiene will help to prevent pests and diseases so pick up and dispose of apples with codling moth infestation, (place in a plastic bag and dispose of in the bin), other fallen and mummified fruit should also be discarded. Continue to mulch cane fruits, currants, blueberries and strawberries, keep moist and apply some leafmould if available. Rhubarb should be deep mulched and kept moist, if you intend to plant rhubarb crowns in winter it is important to prepare the soil now. Rhubarb is a cool climate plant and thrives in humus rich soil with lots of nitrogen. If you are planning to plant fruit trees or cane fruit, ensure your site is well drained, dig deeply and incorporate some compost and or aged manure. Mulch with an organic mulch and you will have given your plants an excellent start in spring. Top In the native garden autumn is an excellent time to establish new plants which will make good growth before the short days and lower temperatures of winter slow growth. When choosing native plants for your garden it is important to remember that one size definitely does not fit all, Australia has many different climatic regions and it is best to choose plants which will thrive in your area. As with all plants soil is important, while many native plants are hardy most will benefit from some care taken with soil preparation prior to planting. Heavy clay soils which have poor soil structure do not allow easy penetration of water however when water does get through waterlogging can occur. Creating raised beds will enable plants to be grown in these areas In sandy soils moisture retention and low levels of nutrients  can be a problem,using small amounts of compost and mulching with organic mulches will help, however organic mulches which contain high levels of nutrients should be avoided as they may be too rich for some natives. Fertilizer should be chosen from formulations which are low in phosphorus. Tip pruning when young creates a more compact plant which will flower well. Attracting native birds to your garden is best achieved by planting a variety of  species which provide shelter and food. Plants should include necter bearing plants such as banksias, callistemon, correas and grevilleas as well as seed bearing native grasses, banksias, hakeas and leptosperman, are just a few of the many plants which are available. The use of native plants as hedges has become increasingly popular, many native plants grow quickly to provide dense shelter and privacy As plants in a hedge must compete for nutrients and moisture it is important to prepare the site by digging deeply and incorporating some organic matter into the soil. A little care may need to be taken initially with watering, weeding and tip pruning but most are hardy and will need minimal attention when mature apart from a trim to keep them bushy and dense. Do not be tempted to allow your hedge to grow tall to quickly, clipping and tip pruning will encourage your plants to grow from the base and you will have new growth from base to top. Hakeas such as H. salicfolia if tightly clipped make a great hedge or screen and are particularly useful in a narrow area beside a driveway or fence. Westringia fruiticosa the coastal rosemary can be clipped hard for a drought tolerant hedge in a waterwise garden, and W. “Wynyabbie Gem’ makes a lovely low hedge to define driveways and paving. Grevilleas, banksias and callistemon  make softer, less formal, colourful and attractive hedges while the sticky wattle A.howittii has pale yellow flowers in spring and a slightly weeping habit which makes a stunning backdrop to any garden. For low hedges there are the correas which can be clipped quite hard if necessary, Callistemon “Little John” has red flowers while G “Scarlet Sprite” has beautiful scarlet spider flowers. The increasing popularity of the lillipillies is well deserved and Syzygium “Bush Christmas” a fine leafed lillipilly with new growth an attractive crimson, is an excellent choice for a small hedge. Well that’s all for this month, enjoy the milder autumn weather, Marg and the team at Meredith nursery. 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Why Would I Make Compost?

Compost Reasons for making Compost. Sustainable gardening seeks to provide the best conditions for optimum plant health with the smallest possible impact on the environment. The plants in our gardens need a constant supply of nutrients in order to grow and provide us with a pleasant environment in which to live, or nutritious food to eat. One of the cheapest and most environmentally sound ways of achieving this is by recycling household and garden waste to make compost. When we set out to do this we are decreasing the amount of waste we send to council tips and landfill and fertilizing our gardens at the same time. Compost is a balanced way of enriching and improving the health of your soil and encouraging the growth of strong, healthy, disease resistant plants. What is Compost. Compost is quite simply a method of speeding up the process which nature uses to make humus on the forest floor, where the constant renewal of the leaf layer and the shade created by the forest canopy, provides the moist conditions required by the microorganisms necessary for the breakdown of organic matter. Decomposition is the result of digestion and redigestion by a complex ecology of microorganisms, insects and worms which require both air and moisture to transform crude vegetation into humus. Humus is a very important form of decomposed organic matter, a complex mixture of substances and the last stage of the decomposition of organic matter. The soil chemistry of humus varies according to the types of organic matter, the soil organisms involved and the environmental conditions involved in humification. Brown or black in colour it has a light crumbly texture when dry, holds several times its own weight in water when wet and has a fresh “earthy” smell. Temperature fluctuations in the soil are relatively small compared to atmospheric changes and the soil animals are rapidly killed by dry conditions. Mulching in summer gives protection to soil life and improves the viability of soil. Most soil animals are oxygen breathers and cannot live in poorly drained and compacted soil. Making Compost. Compost can be made in heaps, wooden bins, plastic bins or compost tumblers, much depends on your proximity to neighbours, the size of your garden and the amount of compost you require. Compost can be made aerobically (with air) or anaerobically (without air). The most popular method of making compost is aerobic. Keep pets away, pets and compost don’t mix. Don’t add perennial weeds or seeds, or plant residue which is diseased. Meat and bones become smelly and attract flies and rodents. Glossy paper has chemicals in it and is best avoided, newspaper, shredded or torn is fine. Worms dislike onions and garlic. Materials for Compost. Most average households accumulate enough organic materials to make sufficient compost to supply garden needs. The most important factor is to balance the ingredients in your heap, that is the carbon/nitrogen ratio. High carbon materials are the dry, woody materials and the high nitrogen materials are wet and green. The microbes in your compost heap need a ratio of about 30 carbon to 1 nitrogen in order make body mass and multiply. A word about some common materials… Weeds… when green provide nitrogen Banana skins…rich in phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen Leaves…low in nitrogen, rich in minerals, slow to decompose unless shredded or ground with a lawnmower. Hair… high in nitrogen, feathers have similar qualities. Dust from the vacuum cleaner Grass clippings…high in nitrogen, need to be mixed with leaves or straw. Kitchen garbage facilitates the decomposition of other materials. Animal manure…fresh manure contains large amounts of active digestive enzymes and cellulose decomposing bacteria, which speed up heating and decomposition. Blood and bone…high in nitrogen, speeds up decomposition Lime or Dolomite…prevents odours, can speed the decomposition process. Azobacteria, that fix nitrogen in the compost are dependant on the availability of calcium. Calcium is an important soil nutrient essential to the formation of plant and animal protein, however if your soil is very alkaline then it is not necessary to add lime or dolomite to your compost. Lucerne hay… lucerne is a perennial legume which draws on subsoil minerals. Pea straw, hay and straw….nitrogen and carbon. Coffee grounds…nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, attract worms and prevent odour. Building the Heap. Materials available for compost will vary in most backyard situations however it is important to remember the nitrogen/carbon balance if you wish to produce good compost. The smaller the particles in your heap the quicker the decomposition, you can use a lawn mower to chop your materials or use a garden mulcher. You can still make compost without these gadgets it will just take a little longer! The correct moisture level in your heap is very important, too wet and you will have foul odours and a slimy heap, too dry and bacteria and fungi die, and decomposition will come to a halt. Compost with the correct amount of moisture should feel very damp when squeezed but you should not be able to extract much moisture. Turning the heap regularly supplies oxygen for the aerobic bacteria and hastens decomposition, the outer layers are distributed through the heap, the materials which have slumped and softened are fluffed up and recharged with air. If you cannot turn your compost do not despair you can still make compost without turning your heap it will just happen more slowly. If your pile has dried out turning and watering the layers will start the process of decomposition again. It is important to cover and protect your heap from heavy rain. A wet slimy heap quickly becomes airless and chilled and valuable nutrients can leach away. The addition of carbon materials throughout the heap will ensure the even distribution of moisture and get your heap going again. The best size for your compost heap is 1.5m wide and 1.5m long and at least 1.5m high. Smaller heaps will not heat up as well with the exception of the compost tumbler which is a rotating drum that can be turned frequently thus improving aeration and speeding up the process of decomposition. It is best for making small “one off” batches. Probably the best method is to have at least two bins one filled and heating and another gathering material ready for building. Plastic compost bins while not very large are best suited to people in urban situations, however decomposition can take a long time if the C/N ratio is not correct, or material comprises large resistant material like stalks and prunings. Heaps should be open at the base to enable worms and other soil life into your heap. Place some large stalks at the base to ensure airflow build your heap in layers using your high nitrogen and carbon materials and moisten between additions if your material is too dry. Finished compost can be applied directly to the soil, be sure to cover with mulch to protect your valuable humus. VISIT THE NURSERY SITE TO SEE A COMPOST HOW TO VIDEO

The Soil in Your Garden

The Soil in your Garden.

As summer fades and we enter into autumn and winter planting it is probably an excellent time to consider the soil in your garden and its role in the success or failure of your plants.
It is essential to the success of your garden that you understand your soil.
As gardeners we like to grow a wide range of plants, many more than those plants which occur naturally in the patch of earth in which we garden.
If our plants are to thrive we need to understand their needs and provide them with the correct environment in which to grow.

If we look at a cross section of soil, it consists of two layers – top soil which comprises the nutrients and organic matter and the subsoil, which is devoid of both these elements.
Topsoil varies in depth from centimetres to a metre or more. The subsoil is hard, difficult to dig and often paler in colour.
All soils are made up of the same basic ingredients, sand, clay, silt and loam.
The proportions in which these occur in your soil determine the type of soil you have.

Sandy soil is granular and has a gritty texture. The particles are large and of an irregular shape and it falls apart when balled up in your hand.
It is easy to dig, free draining and quick to warm up in the spring.
Because of its free draining nature it does not hold water for very long and is therefore prone to drought.
Nutrients leach very quickly from sandy soils which can leave them impoverished.

Clay soils have very tiny particles which pack together tightly excluding air and making the soil sticky and difficult to work, they can be rolled in the hand to form a ball.
Drainage is poor and clay soils are often waterlogged, making them slow to warm up in spring, in summer they bake hard, crack badly and form large lumps.

Silty soil is usually fertile, falls between clay and sand particle size and compacts easily. It is a free draining soil type.

Loam contains clay, sand and silt particles blended in combination with humus, in a balance which supplies plants with the air and fertile soil best suited to their needs. Moisture retentive and well drained, loamy soils warm up quickly in spring and are easy to work.

Once you have established your soil type you can begin to take steps to improve the condition of the soil.
Gypsum (calcium sulphate) can be used to break up clay by a process called flocculation, tiny particles form into larger particles which cause lumps to crumble and improve the friability of the soil.
This effect sometimes lasts for only 1-2 years.
The most effective long term solution to the problem of clay soils is to incorporate as much organic matter as possible into the soil
The addition of bulky organic matter will help clay soils open up, drain more efficiently and improve the uptake of nutrients.
Similarly the retention of both water and nutrients is improved on sandy and silty soils by adding humus.

Well rotted stable manure, sheep manure, cow manure and compost contain plant food and add valuable humus to the soil.
Mulch such as pea straw, which is constantly replenished as it decays, will also improve the friability of your soil
Leaf mould is a good soil conditioner although low in food value.
Growing a green manure crop is an excellent way to introduce a substantial amount of organic matter into the soil.
Healthy soil contains millions of microscopic bacteria, fungi and earthworms that are constantly breaking down humus and providing the food that plants need. The other vital ingredients are water, which dissolves these nutrients, and air, without which soil organisms would die.

Soil pH

As both very acid and very alkaline soils lock away nutrients, it is important to
establish the pH of your soil as this can have a direct impact on how successfully
your plants grow.
pH is the measurement of its acidity or alkalinity and is determined by the amount of
lime it contains. This has an effect on the uptake of nutrients and also on the species
of plants which can be grown successfully.
Soil acidity is measured on a scale which ranges from 1 which is extremely acid, to
14 which is extremely alkaline.
Each unit change in the pH scale is a tenfold difference in acidity or alkalinity.
As an example a soil with a Ph of 8 is ten times more alkaline than soil with a pH of
7
A pH of 7 is neutral and somewhere close to this level is best for growing vegetables.
Most ornamental plants grow best where the pH is somewhere between 5.5 and 7.5.
Lime hating plants such as rhododendrons and azaleas prefer a lower pH while lime
lovers such as bearded iris and brassicas grow best in soil with a pH above 7.0
Measuring the acidity or alkalinity of your soil involves taking several samples from
around your garden and testing with a small inexpensive soil testing kit which is
readily available.
Plants and weeds that do well in your garden can be an indicator of soil pH.
Rhododendrons, azaleas, sorrel and plantain thrive in acid
soil. The presence of sorrel is often a good indicator that soil is acid.
Lime lovers like bearded iris, poppies, clematis and brassicas thrive in alkaline soil.

Changing Soil pH
It is quite a simple matter to make soil more alkaline, ie raise its pH by adding lime,
(calcium hydroxide) dolomite, (dolomitic limestone) or wood ashes.
To increase soil acidity is less straightforward, the addition of animal manures, leaf
mould, sawdust and peatmoss will all help to acidify the soil.
The addition of powdered sulphur at the rate of 1.2oz sulphur per square metre should reduce acidity by 1.0 point.
Iron deficiency (Iron chlorosis) is the result of high pH soils reducing the availability
of iron to plants. Leaves which become pale green or turn yellow and have leaf veins which remain green indicate iron deficiency. The use of iron chelates will alleviate this problem.

Plant nutrients.
Plants require a whole range of mineral nutrients to sustain healthy growth.
Most soils contain a reasonable range of them, however it is possible for soils to be deficient in some nutrients, which affects growth and performance.
This often becomes apparent once plants are established and failure to thrive or unhealthy foliage indicates that all is not well.
It is helpful to know something about the most significant of these in order to identify possible deficiencies in your soil
Most of the major element deficiencies show on the old or lower leaves of the plant.
Minor element deficiencies usually appear on the newer leaves towards the tips.

Essential Plant Nutrients
Calcium (Ca)
Magnesium (Mg)
Nitrogen (N)
Phosphorus (P)
Potassium (Potash) (K)
Sulphur (S)

Trace Elements
Boron (B)
Chlorine (Cl)
Copper (Cu)
Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn)
Molybdenum (Mo)
Zinc (Zn)

Nitrogen
Essential for the formation of protein and chlorophyll and responsible for vigour and
size of leaves and stems.
Imparts dark green colour to plants.
The soil in its natural state has very little nitrogen available to plants, most of the
nitrogen is present in the organic matter in the soil, so the total amount of nitrogen in
in the soil is dependant on the organic matter.
Nitrogen deficiency causes stunting, harder stems and mature leaves which become
Chlorotic (yellowish) progressing from light green to yellow.

Sources of Nitrogen
Fresh Manure… rich in uric acid… a potent form of nitrogen which can easily burn plant tissue.
Aged manure…well rotted 2-3 years old.
Nitrogen content is variable and dependant on age and method of storage.
All these forms of nitrogen must be broken down by nitrifying bacteria before the plant is able to use them.
Nitrifying bacteria are most active in moist aerated soils, wet and water logged soils do not contain sufficient oxygen to supply the needs of the bacteria.
Legumes…(peas, beans, clover etc) with the help of soil bacteria are able to fix nitrogen on nodules on their roots.
Soils in which these crops have recently grown are particularly rich in nitrogen.
Blood and bone
Dynamic Lifter and similar compound fertilisers, (check the formula on the packet)
are a good source.
Sulphate of Ammonia (ammonium sulphate)… use carefully as it can burn soft tissue.
Nitrogen given in conjunction with added potash gives a balance which is necessary for growth. Compound fertilisers, (check the formula on the packet) are a good source.

Phosphorus

Important for strong root growth ( essential for root vegetables) energy storage and
seed production and is involved in the transfer of hereditary traits.
Vigorous seedlings, promotes rapid development of roots in young plants… any
seedbed should have an ample supply of phosphates.
Symptoms of deficiency include stunted growth, low drought tolerance, weak root systems, poor seedling growth and lack of response to other fertilisers.
Sources of Phosphorus
Bone or fishmeal
Superphosphate.
Organic matter in the soil is an important source of phosphorus and aeration and moisture are important for microbiological breakdown of organic matter, an important source of phosphorus.

Potassium (potash)

Necessary for the well balanced growth of leaves and stems, water uptake and photosynthesis.
Production of flowers and fruit…plants which fail to flower properly can often be induced to do so by the addition of potash.
Potash deficiency is characterized by scorched leaf margins and sometimes a reddish tint to leaves, poor flowering, fruiting and berrying, winter damage and frost damage.
Highly soluble, so well drained sandy soils are often deficient, however moisture is needed in order for potassium to move to the roots for uptake
Uptake of potassium is affected more than most other nutrients by poor aeration.
Sources of Potash
Wood ash in generous amounts
Seaweed based fertilisers
Compound fertilisers, e.g. tomato plant food.

Magnesium

This element is an essential part of the chlorophyll molecule and aids in the
absorption of other nutrients, it is also important for seed production.
Magnesium deficiency shows in the older leaves which become red-brown,
green at the tips and lower central vein areas and there is often early leaf fall.
The most common source of magnesium is dolomitic limestone which neutralizes soil
acidity while providing calcium and magnesium.
Magnesium Sulphate can be applied to the soil or used as a foliar spray.

Calcium

Stimulates root and shoot development, influences yield by reducing soil acidity,
maintains the integrity of cell membranes and is necessary for nitrogen fixation by
legumes.
Deficiencies of calcium are associated with soil acidification, poor root growth and growing tips.
As most calcium deficient soils are acidic, liming is an efficient method of adding calcium. Both garden lime and and dolomite are reliable sources .

Sulphur

Essential for nitrogen fixation by legumes, necessary for chlorophyll formation and as a constituent of the organic compounds that give odours to onions, garlic and mustard.
Deficiency shows up as pale green young leaves, thin stems and spindly growth. Sources of sulphur are animal manures and organic matter in the soil.