In this Issue

• Benefits of Mulching
• Mulching Materials
• Vegie Garden
• Ornamental Garden
  
• Native
• Orchard

VISIT THE NURSERY

Summer 2009 / 2010

The winter rains have been the best for many years and gardens (and gardeners) have responded, spring gardens have never looked better and there is still time to plant for Christmas and summer displays.

With the good soil moisture in most regions it is important to retain as much of this valuable moisture as possible and the way to do this is to mulch, mulch, mulch.

At this time of year the warmth and moisture cause weeds to grow rapidly and it is important to deal with them before they complete their life cycle and seed.

Nature abhors bare soil so any weeds will quickly reestablish if allowed to do so.

Mulching will help to prevent this and will reduce the amount of time which needs to be spent weeding and watering.

Mulching occurs naturally in nature, with leaves, twigs, spent flowers and grasses forming a protective covering which gradually decomposes to feed the soil and it is this natural process which we replicate when we mulch our gardens.

BENEFITS OF MULCHING.

Weed control… to control weeds in the garden mulches should be weed free and applied deeply enough to prevent any weed seeds from germinating.

Mulches insulate and regulate the temperature of the soil, keeping soil temperatures stable.

Mulches reduce evaporation, valuable soil moisture is retained for longer periods.

Organic mulches add organic matter to the soil as they decompose improving the structure and water holding capacity of the soil, improve soil aeration and the passage of water through the soil.

Organic mulches add nutrients to the soil and encourage earthworm activity.

The benefits of mulching apply to all soil types, the water holding capacity of sandy soil is improved and clay soils will gradually become more friable with the addition of organic matter.

Mulch reduces soil splashing, which helps to prevent soil borne diseases from coming into contact with plants.

Mulches prevent soil crusting, thus improving the absorption of water and reducing soil erosion and loss of top soil.

Ripening vegetables such as pumpkins, tomatoes, cucumbers etc are protected from direct contact with the soil and are less likely to rot or be attacked by garden pests.

MULCHING TIPS

More is not always better, mulch applied too thickly may shed water and cause the soil underneath to dry out.

Mulch should be porous enough to let water pass through and dense enough to prevent evaporation or weed growth.

Soils which have a low content of organic matter tend to repel moisture and wasteful “run off” can occur, if you have this problem a soil wetting agent applied under mulch will ensure better penetration and save valuable moisture.

Shake mulch and “fluff up”as you spread to prevent packing down.

Do not pile mulch around tree or plant stems, as this keeps moisture in direct contact with the bark and suffocates the layer of living tissue (the Phloem) which transfers food up and down the plant, resulting in an inability by the plant to take up sufficient water and leaf drop, root dieback and general decline occur.

Mulching around new plantings helps to keep moisture in the root ball until roots have established in surrounding soil.

Spoiled grass hay makes excellent mulch, however it often contains weed seeds which germinate when mulch becomes moist, if this occurs simply flip the mulch over.

Apply some blood and bone or other high nitrogen fertilizer under mulch to prevent temporary nitrogen loss, particularly with mulch which has not started to decay.

Soak new bales of mulch with water to kick start the process of decay.

MULCHING MATERIALS.

Grass Clippings

Good for mulching around seedlings and smaller plants as they are quite fine in texture.

Allow to dry slightly and apply in thin layers to allow moisture to penetrate.

Rich in nitrogen and contain some potash.

Pine Needles

Make an excellent mulch for the acid lovers in your garden. Use them around blueberries, strawberries, azaleas and rhododendrons.

Straw

A coarse mulch which is usually seed free as it only consists of the plant stalk.

An excellent mulch which does not pack down easily and allows rain to penetrate.

Wood Chips

Long lasting mulch for use around trees, shrubs and larger areas in the garden.

Decompose slowly and contain some nutrients.

Weeds

Use only weeds which are seed free, never use weeds such as couch or oxalis which spread underground or grow from bulbs.

Use where a coarse mulch is required, around fruit trees or shrubs.

Sawdust

Best left to weather until has become brown and crumbly.

Well rotted sawdust is a good soil conditioner which increases the water holding capacity of the soil, it has very little nutrient value.

Apply thinly as it packs down easily and will create a barrier which is impervious to moisture.

Never use sawdust from treated pine and similar products.

Manure

An excellent soil conditioner, nutrient value varies with age, storage and animal health.

Manures with a low nitrogen content are often referred to as “cold’ manures, e.g.(cow manure), while manures with a high nitrogen content are “hot” manures, e.g. (poultry manure).

Never apply fresh manure around plants and store under cover to prevent nutrient loss.

Pea Straw

A valuable, coarse mulch which does not pack down, an excellent soil conditioner which adds nutrients to the soil as it decays.

Sugar Cane Mulch.

Another good coarse mulch which is attractive in the ornamental garden, does not have any weed seeds and stays fluffy allowing rain to penetrate.

Leaf Mould

Another great soil conditioner, use around acid lovers or apply some lime or dolomite in general garden areas.

INORGANIC MULCHES

Inorganic mulches are usually plastic, fabric or stone, they do not contain weed seeds, rob the soil of nitrogen or decompose.

On the downside they do not contribute organic matter to the soil and are often expensive.

Plastic

Reduces weeds and keeps soil moist.

In areas where soil moisture is a problem plastic may keep soil too wet and dank and cause problems with root disease.

Has a tendency to tear and break down quickly.

It may be necessary to cover plastic with another mulch to prevent this occuring.

Water cannot penetrate plastic therefore holes need to be made in the plastic to enable water to reach the soil.

Fabric

Woven of fabric, plastic or paper they come in various lengths and widths.

Effective in reducing weeds and allowing water, air and fertilizers to pass through.

Stone

Crushed stone, gravel and pebbles…available in a wide range of colours, textures and materials.

Allow rain and irrigation to penetrate and give good weed control, however this can become increasingly difficult over time as soil, leaves, and other debris becomes trapped in the stones creating an ideal environment for seed germination.

Large areas of rocks can heat up and reflect heat onto plants during the summer months creating a hot micro climate.

Difficult to contain and have a tendency to migrate to areas of the garden such as lawns where they can cause problems when mowing.

Of all the tasks that you do in your garden, mulching is one of the most beneficial, contributing to soil conditioning, fertilizing, weed control and water and soil conservation.

A well mulched garden can reduce your watering by up to 50 per cent.

TOP

In Vegie garden plant climbing and bush beans, beetroot, broccoli,cauliflower,celery, cabbage, capsicum, carrot, cucumber, eggplant, kohlrabi, leek,onions, peas,swede turnip, turnip,lettuce, parsnip, pumpkin, rhubarb crowns, silver beet, spring onions, sweetcorn, tomato and zucchini.

Feed vegetables with a soluble fertilizer fortnightly to keep them growing strongly.

Watch for slugs and snail and aphids which will demolish seedlings very quickly.

Bush and climbing beans planted now will return large yields from a small amount of space if they are kept moist with a mulch.

Continue to harvest strawberries, feed and keep moist.

Potatoes which are growing strongly should have soil mounded around them to prevent the developing tubers from becoming green and inedible.

A thick layer of mulch will also prevent this provided it is replenished frequently as the potatoes will then form in the mulch.

With the arrival of warmer weather we tend to develop a craving for moist, crunchy salad vegetables. Picked fresh from the garden just before they are needed they are fresh, nutritious and tasty.

Lettuce is easy to grow and there are many varieties to choose from.

Hearting or crisphead types have tight heads which are slow to mature and the entire plant is harvested.This group includes Great Lakes, Iceberg and Yatesdale.

Butterhead lettuce a soft, smooth, semi hearting lettuce includes red and green mignonette which have soft curly leaves and a small heart and Buttercrunch which has compact crisp dark green heads.

Cos or Romaine has elongated heads of upright leave which form a loose heart, stiff mid ribs and a crunchy texture.

Leaf or open hearted lettuce are the easiest of all to grow, fast maturing and heat tolerant, they do not bolt to seed and individual leaves can be harvested over a long period.

Oak Leaf has several  different forms, from pale green to brown. Red Coral and Green Coral have smooth leaves with heavily frilled margins.

Lettuce enjoy fertile soil which has plenty of organic matter incorporated and is moist and well drained. If the weather is hot plant them in the cool of the evening and shade them from the hot afternoon sun until they are established.

Varieties which have red tinged foliage are more heat tolerant.

Moisture is important to produce sweet crunchy leaves, so mulch to conserve moisture.

Celery is easy to grow provided a few basic needs are met. Soil should be limed and fertile as celery will not grow in acidic soil.

Mulch heavily, water with a seaweed solution and keep moist for optimum growth.

Spring onions enjoy soil which has some dolomite raked into the surface, plant and cover with a thin layer of soil, water deeply and you will have a good supply for salads and stirfrys.

For those who want to try something a little different Crocus sativus, the saffron crocus, has stunning purple flowers which occur in mid autumn from amongst grass like foliage.

The flowers provide the stigmas which are dried and used in cooking for colour and flavour.

They like a cool wet spring, followed by a hot dry, summer and then a cool, moist autumn.

Use in rice, couscous and a range of soups, fish and middle eastern dishes.

The summer herb garden is always a delight and we have  many herbs to enliven your summer salads and Christmas dishes. Choose from golden oregano, lemon verbena,sage, red sage, rosemary, chives, garlic chives, thyme, mint  and and many more.

Give your herbs a sunny spot  in the garden and you will have fresh flavours in the kitchen whenever you need them.

In the Ornamental garden potted plants will dry out quickly as the weather becomes warmer, ensure that the pot they are in is large enough and group them closely together in a spot which has morning sun or dappled shade, and mulch to keep roots cool and prevent evaporation.

Water storing crystals added to plants in pots should be first soaked in a seaweed solution to rehydrate them, before adding to the root zone of the plant.

Always follow the recommended amount on the container when using in pots.

Give your ferns a shady spot, keep them moist, and mist gently on very hot days to keep them green and happy.

Plant seedlings of petunias and other summer flowering annuals in bare spots where spring annuals have faded.

A slow release fertilizer will benefit all trees, shrubs, and other potted plants, remember to water well before and after fertilizing.

Divide congested clumps of bearded iris as flowering finishes.

Prune spring blossom trees and shrubs and once flowering roses after flowering finishes, water deeply and mulch.

Roses can be fed now with blood and bone or pelletised chicken manure and a handful of sulphate of potash, water in well and mulch.

Clematis make wonderful partners for roses, the huge delicate flowers look superb twining amongst the roses and they enjoy similar garden conditions.

Clematis enjoy moist soil which has been enriched with compost or well rotted manure.

They like a sunny position with a cool root run, the best way to achieve this is with an organic mulch.

For a tough and undemanding hedge plant Pittosporum “Cut Above” is suitable for full sun or part shade, coastal planting, hedges, tubs and topiary.

Syzygium australe “Bush Christmas” has a compact habit which lends itself to shaping into a dense hedge, unpruned it will grow to 2-3 metres however with regular pruning it can be kept to 1 metre.

In winter it is covered with a flush of orange new growth.

Bush Christmas will make a great container plant and will be happy indoors for a short time decorated for the festive season.

In the Native garden Callistemons  have been looking wonderful, trim them and other spring flowering native plants back as flowering finishes, this improves flowering, keeps bushes shapely and extends the life of the plant.

Callistemon “Firebrand” has bright red bottle brush flowers during spring and autumn.

Correa “White Tips is a very attractive and hardy shrub which has long red tubed  flowers with recurved white lips, to 65cms high and 60 cms wide it will grow well in rocky to poor soils where many other plants will struggle.

Pimelea “Silver Ghost” is a very pretty small plant which has clusters of small white flowers in spring, hardy and reliable.

Grevilleas are hardy plants which will beautify and bring native birds to the garden, for success with grevilleas good drainage is essential, in gardens where water is not readily dispersed raising garden beds will solve this problem.

Grevilleas prefer a sunny aspect,  an acid to neutral soil and sandy soils will benefit from additional compost or organic matter as very sandy soils will result in sparse foliage and flowers.

Water both plant and garden bed well before planting.

Dig a hole which is as deep as and twice as wide as the pot which contains the plant and loosen the soil at the base of the hole.

Tap the plant out of the pot and trim any coiled roots, place in the hole, backfill and firm well.

Water in thoroughly and mulch.

Do not over fertilize as this will often result in the death of the plant and always use a low phosphorus fertilizer.

Pinch out the growing tips for the first year or two and trim immediately after flowering to keep the plant shapely and to prolong life.

Grevillea “Winpara Gem”is a very attractive shrub which has deep red spider flowers with attractive gold tips, another spider grevillea is the very attractive G. “Ellendale”,  a quick growing shrub, to 2m high and wide, which has large pendulous clusters of flowers during autumn, winter and spring. Good for coastal planting.

For those who like gold tones G. “Apricot Charm’ has beautiful clusters of deep apricot flowers and is fast growing and hardy.

Grevillea “Superb” is a long lived and hardy plant with bright green, deeply divided leaves, and huge red spider flowers.

Grevillea “Lady O” is a medium sized  spreading shrub which will produce  bright red flowers all year round under mild conditions and is ideal for attracting nectar feeding birds to the garden. Prune regularly and use a low phosphorus fertilizer. “Ember Glow” is another attractive spider grevillea with brilliant red flowers tipped with gold.

In the Orchard citrus can be planted now if a few basic needs are met.

A sheltered sunny spot is essential as citrus will not thrive in exposed, windy sites.

Citrus require a well drained soil which is rich, well aerated and moist, they are gross feeders and should be fed regularly with a specific citrus food or complete fertilizer.

This should be applied out to the drip line or outer edge of the tree.

Keep grass well away from the trunk as grass robs trees of the nutrients they need.

Citrus adapt well to growing in pots and containers and make handsome and decorative subjects for a warm outdoor living area.They need a well drained and aerated potting mix and must be kept well watered and fed when in active growth.

Citrus rarely need special pruning and a light trim of straggly growth is all that is required.

A tendency to scale and sooty mould are easily controlled with soft soap and oil sprays.

We have a large range of citrus at the nursery including Imperial Mandarin, “Seedless Valencia” Orange, Meyer and Lisbon Lemon, Minneola Tangelo, Calamondin, Red and “Marsh” Grapefruit and the Tahitian Lime.

Olives are small strong trees which need little support, they prefer a light, lime based soil and are suited to areas with hot, dry, summers and cold, wet, winters.

These attractive small trees are often overlooked, which is a pity as their long dark leaves, silvered underneath, are a perfect foil for many garden plants.

A small grove of olives underplanted with lavender will beautify that tough spot in your garden, provide you with olives for pickling and demand little in the way of attention or water.

Plant in full sun in well drained soil, although drought hardy they will benefit from regular watering.

For a graceful medditteranean touch in a sunny courtyard, olives grow well in containers.  Unlikely to be very productive in this situation they are best regarded as ornamentals.

Olives bear on the previous season’s growth, remove any diseased, dead or crossing branches in late winter or early spring.

We have a good selection of trees in varying sizes so pop into the nursery and have a look.

Keep currants, raspberries, and other bramble and bush fruits well watered and deeply mulched, and apples and stone fruits mulched, band apple trunks with cardboard to trap codling moth.

Well that’s it for this month, enjoy the long summer days in the garden,

Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery.

TOP

• Vegie Patch
• Ornamental Garden
• Soil Preparation & Improvement
• Native garden
• Orchard

VISIT THE NURSERY

Summer in the garden means using whatever water we have available, mulching to conserve moisture and enjoying our gardens in the early mornings and evenings when it is cool and pleasant.

With the recent high temperatures it is easy to forget that autumn is just around the corner and we need to plan and prepare for winter and spring.

Now is an excellent time to take note of the performance of your plants under very hot and difficult conditions, and perhaps replace those that have struggled, with some of the many plants more suited to our Mediterranean climate. It is also a good time to assess areas of the garden which could benefit from suitable shade trees.

Planting a deciduous tree or trees on the north side of the house provides valuable shade and cooling in summer  and allows winter sun to warm your house.

In the vegetable patch continue to mulch tomatoes, corn, pumpkins cucumbers beans and capsicum.

It is important to get late winter and spring crops in to ensure there

isn’t a gap between summer and spring vegetables, delay now means that

plants will not make enough growth before the soil temperatures drop in

winter.

If you can, transplant seedlings early in the morning or evening preferably on an overcast or dull day.

Make a hole which is deep enough to contain the roots, fill with soil or

compost and gently press down soil around the plant. Water in with

seaweed fertilizer and provide some shade if the weather is hot.

Plant carrots and parsnips in an area which has been fertilized for a

previous crop, fresh manure will cause forking of roots. Deeply dug,

friable soil will ensure long tapering roots.

Parsnip seed has a very short life so be sure to purchase fresh seed each year.

Plant broccoli, brussel sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower, use compost and

dolomite or lime and keep them growing strongly with fortnightly doses

of liquid manure. White cabbage month can be a problem at this time of

year, small wire tunnels covered in bird netting work very well or you

can check the underside of the leaves each day.

Plant lettuce in soil which has good humus and nitrogen levels, mulch and

keep moist, this will keep them growing strongly and prevent them from

becoming bitter.

Turnips and swede turnips are great for winter soups and stews, sow directly and thin to 10 cms apart.

Silver beet is a biennial which goes to seed in its second season, hardy and

prolific it likes nitrogen and a mulch in dry weather.

Garlic needs good drainage and soil rich in humus, plant cloves 4 to 5 cms deep.

A dressing of lime or dolomite provides the alkaline conditions which

beetroot prefers, add some compost and plant about 15cms apart. Keep

moist and weed free.

In the ornamental garden

Roses have again proven to be winners flowering prolifically despite the extreme heat.

Now is the time to prune them lightly, fertilize and water for an autumn flush of blooms.

Take your secateurs with you into the garden and continue to deadhead perennials and annuals to keep them flowering.

Tip prune fuchsias and give a liquid feed to encourage flowering.

A sprinkle of lime around hellebores will help developing flower buds, water in well.

Fertilize camellias, daphne, rhododendrons, azalea and magnolias now for a beautiful display in late winter and spring.

Geraniums (Pelargoniums) should be cut back now to keep them shapely and allow them to put on growth before winter.

Group pot plants together, watering is quicker and easier and pots stay moist for longer periods.

Cover sensitive plants with shadecloth, if sun damage has already occurred resist the urge to remove the damaged leaves until temperatures become milder in autumn.

Remove emerging weeds before they seed and throw them in the compost.

Autumn is the best time to divide clivia, agapanthus and daylilies. Prepare soil with some compost and keep them moist.

Trim hedges such as box, westringia, lilly pilly and lonicera.

Soil Preparation and Improvement.

Late summer and early autumn is the best time to prepare soil for winter and spring planting.

Any good garden starts with the soil and water wise gardening is no exception, whatever your soil type, (sandy, clay or loam) it will improve, become more friable and have increased water holding capacity with the addition of organic matter.

Continue to mulch with animal manures such as sheep, cow, horse or chicken, and mulch  using  peastraw, sugarcane, or your own compost or leaf mould. If soil is acidic add some dolomite or lime, about two handsful per square metre.

These materials are necessary for long term soil improvement, forming valuable humus as they decompose.

Green Manure

Organic matter can be added to the soil by growing a green manure crop which is dug into the soil about six to eight weeks after planting, this is an excellent way of introducing a lot of organic matter into the soil very quickly.

Trench Composting

A compost trench is a simple alternative to a compost heap and is a method which can be used during autumn and winter when activity slows in compost bins.

Most suited for vegetable gardens where nutrient loss is high or for improving soil fertility in specific ares of the garden.

In late summer or autumn dig out a trench about 30 cm wide and 30 cm deep.

Gradually fill the trench with plant debris, vegetable scraps and other kitchen waste.

Dig a second parallel trench and cover the material in the first trench with the soil that has been dug from the second trench.

Woody materials such as brassica stems and plant prunings may need to chopped roughly or shredded before being buried.

Some pelleted chicken manure or blood and bone to supply nitrogen will help to speed up the process.

The Deep Bed System

When using the deep bed system  soil is removed to one spade deep and the exposed subsoil in the bottom of the trench is broken up with a garden fork to allow roots to penetrate deeply.

Place a generous layer of manure, compost or other organic matter in the bottom of the trench and cover with soil.

From this point on cultivation is kept to a minimum and additional organic matter is only added as top dressing or mulch.

Making Leafmould.

Leafmould is an excellent soil conditioner,a valuable source of organic matter, is simple to make and needs very little preparation. Deciduous tree and shrubs will soon be dropping huge amounts of this valuable soil conditioner so gather it up and put it to use.

For large gardens a wire sided bin or pen to hold leaves as they decompose is all that is necessary, while for smaller gardens  black plastic rubbish bags are all that is needed.

Rake up fallen leaves after rain and place them in bags or bins.

To every 30cm layer of leaves add a handful of organic fertilizer such as pelleted chicken manure, and water thoroughly when bag is full.

Over a period of about two years the leaves will decompose and settle to produce mulch or soil conditioner.

If this is done every autumn you will always have an excellent supply of mulch or organic matter to add to your soil.

To accelerate leaf decay run the lawn mower over them with the grasscatcher attached and empty into bin or bags.

Site preparation for revegetation and shelterbelts.

Adequate preparation of the site is crucial to the survival of seedling trees and their subsequent growth.

Weed control prior to planting and for the first year is the most important step to take to avoid seedling death and stunted growth, competition for stored soil moisture is eliminated and active growth is possible in spring and summer.

The site should be deep ripped in late summer/early autumn to achieve soil “shatter”, well tilled soil allows any moisture to be absorbed, better root development and uniformity of growth.

Water Storing Crystals.

Pre soaked water storing  crystals placed in the planting hole or mixed into potting mix or soil, are essential to give your plants the best chance of success. Only small quantities are needed (1/2 teaspoon per plant) and it is important to soak them in a seaweed solution before placing them in the root zone. The crystals absorb the liquid fertilizer and moisture and provide the plant with both nutrients and moisture.

Soil Wetting Agents

Soil wetting agents come in both liquid and granular form and are particularly useful where soils are water repellant. They break down the water resistant layer on top of the soil preventing wasteful run off, help soil retain moisture longer after rain and move water faster into the root zone.

After the prolonged dry summer period soils will benefit from the application of a soil wetting agent to ensure penetration of water and lessen “runoff”.

Both these products are invaluable in a waterwise garden

In the home orchard it is time to feed citrus, limes, lemons, mandarin, oranges, grapefruit and cumquats.

Use a citrus fertilizer or pelleted chicken manure, water well,and mulch.

Citrus grow best in well drained loam in full sun with some protection from strong winds, roots grow very close to the surface so avoid deep cultivation and fertilize and mulch out to the dripline.

Fertilize other fruit trees from early to mid autumn, good hygiene will help to prevent pests and diseases so pick up and dispose of apples with codling moth infestation, (place in a plastic bag and dispose of in the bin), other fallen and mummified fruit should also be discarded.

Continue to mulch cane fruits, currants, blueberries and strawberries, keep moist and apply some leafmould if available.

Rhubarb should be deep mulched and kept moist, if you intend to plant rhubarb crowns in winter it is important to prepare the soil now. Rhubarb is a cool climate plant and thrives in humus rich soil with lots of nitrogen.

If you are planning to plant fruit trees or cane fruit, ensure your site is well drained, dig deeply and incorporate some compost and or aged manure. Mulch with an organic mulch and you will have given your plants an excellent start in spring.

In the native garden autumn is an excellent time to establish new plants which will make good growth before the short days and lower temperatures of winter slow growth.

When choosing native plants for your garden it is important to remember that one size definitely does not fit all, Australia has many different climatic regions and it is best to choose plants which will thrive in your area.

As with all plants soil is important, while many native plants are hardy most will benefit from some care taken with soil preparation prior to planting.

Heavy clay soils which have poor soil structure do not allow easy penetration of water however when water does get through waterlogging can occur. Creating raised beds will enable plants to be grown in these areas

In sandy soils moisture retention and low levels of nutrients  can be a problem,using small amounts of compost and mulching with organic mulches will help, however organic mulches which contain high levels of nutrients should be avoided as they may be too rich for some natives.

Fertilizer should be chosen from formulations which are low in phosphorus.

Tip pruning when young creates a more compact plant which will flower well.

Attracting native birds to your garden is best achieved by planting a variety of  species which provide shelter and food.

Plants should include necter bearing plants such as banksias, callistemon, correas and grevilleas as well as seed bearing native grasses, banksias, hakeas and leptosperman, are just a few of the many plants which are available.

The use of native plants as hedges has become increasingly popular, many native plants grow quickly to provide dense shelter and privacy

As plants in a hedge must compete for nutrients and moisture it is important to prepare the site by digging deeply and incorporating some organic matter into the soil.

A little care may need to be taken initially with watering, weeding and tip pruning but most are hardy and will need minimal attention when mature apart from a trim to keep them bushy and dense.

Do not be tempted to allow your hedge to grow tall to quickly, clipping and tip pruning will encourage your plants to grow from the base and you will have new growth from base to top.

Hakeas such as H. salicfolia if tightly clipped make a great hedge or screen and are particularly useful in a narrow area beside a driveway or fence.

Westringia fruiticosa the coastal rosemary can be clipped hard for a drought tolerant hedge in a waterwise garden, and W. “Wynyabbie Gem’ makes a lovely low hedge to define driveways and paving.

Grevilleas, banksias and callistemon  make softer, less formal, colourful and attractive hedges while the sticky wattle A.howittii has pale yellow flowers in spring and a slightly weeping habit which makes a stunning backdrop to any garden.

For low hedges there are the correas which can be clipped quite hard if necessary, Callistemon “Little John” has red flowers while G “Scarlet Sprite” has beautiful scarlet spider flowers.

The increasing popularity of the lillipillies is well deserved and Syzygium “Bush Christmas” a fine leafed lillipilly with new growth an attractive crimson, is an excellent choice for a small hedge.

Well that’s all for this month, enjoy the milder autumn weather,

Marg and the team at Meredith nursery.

TOP

• Water efficient garden
• Worms and Worm farms
• Vegie Patch
• Tomatoes
• Herbs
• Native garden
• Ornamental Garden

What a wonderful time spring is for the keen gardener, flowers everywhere, summer vegetables such as tomatoes and corn are starting to grow and everywhere we see the results of our work and planning.

Now is the time to prepare for the hotter months ahead, utilise compost made over winter, get rid of spring weeds before they seed and then mulch, mulch, mulch.
The Water Efficient Garden.

Garden design

Until recently most Australian gardens were not designed with the efficient use of water as a priority, however the recent drought and water shortages have seen a marked change in the way we approach and design our gardens.

Those who are starting a new garden have a unique opportunity to design a garden which  has low water needs.

For those with established gardens a reassessment of the placement of plants and introduction of drought tolerant species means we can still have and enjoy our gardens without guilt, and often with reduced work.

A site analysis of your garden can be as simple as a sketch of your house and garden and any other buildings on your site.

On this plan define prevailing winds, summer sun and shaded areas of the garden.

You will find that your garden has several microclimates in a relatively small area and these can be altered or exploited to obtain the results you want for your garden.

Areas which face north provide the sunny aspect necessary for growing vegetables, drying clothes and the addition of a pergola covered in a deciduous vine  and deciduous shade trees, will provide summer shade and cooling and allow winter sun to warm the house.

Choose drought tolerant native plants or exotics from those parts of the world with similar climatic conditions to our own.

Windbreak plantings can minimise both hot and cold winds and in the smaller garden a hedge will provide a sheltered environment.

In the water saving garden an ongoing  program of soil improvement, using compost manure and mulches such as lucerne, peastraw and sugarcane will improve soil structure and fertility and the water holding capacity of soil.

Soil salinity will have a direct impact on the plants which will thrive in your locality and testing your water supply for disolved salt is an excellent idea.

This service is available locally at Meredith Nursery.

The acidity or alkalinity of soil should also be assessed, again this will indicate what will grow best in your area or allow you to take steps to change the pH of your soil.

When choosing native plants it is important to choose those which thrive in your area, many of our native plants grow in climatic regions of Australia which are very different from our own.

Mulching reduces moisture loss through evaporation, suppresses weeds which compete for moisture and reduces fluctuations in soil temperature.

Organic mulches rob the soil of nitrogen as they begin to break down.

It is useful to apply some blood and bone before mulch is laid down or to allow the mulch to begin to decompose before you use it.

Hydrophobic soils which do not take up water can be helped by the use of a wetting agent which improves the uptake and helps to distribute  moisture throughout  the soil.

Water storing crystals which absorb many times their own weight in water are of assistance when planting out trees and shrubs.

Care needs to be taken to use the correct amount or to hydrate the crystals before planting, as the plant can be pushed out of the ground by the swelling action of the crystals as they take up water.

It is preferable to make up the water crystals 24 hours before use, into a solution of Seasol®,(or other  seaweed tonic with no N:P:K) at the rate of 25mls of Seasol®, per litre of good quality tank water. Do not use bore water unless it has and EC of less than 100.   Stir this solution several times in the 24 hour period and you will find that the crystals take up the Seasol® solution ensuring this is available to the roots of the plant. Hnce a tonic placed at the root zone, which will offer some protection from stress due to heat, lack of water etc.  When using water crystals remember to water deeply less frequently, ensuring that the watering has rehydrated the crystals to continue to be available to the plants roots.

Avoiding water wastage is the quickest way to reduce water consumption.

Grouping plants with similar water requirements together enables you to water when needed rather than watering an entire group to provide for a few thirsty plants.

Always check the soil moisture under mulch before you commence watering.

Avoid watering in the middle of the day when evaporation is highest, early morning  is best for plants such as roses which are susceptible to fungal diseases.

Watering in the evening ensures that little moisture is lost to evaporation.

Drip irrigation is one of the best methods of watering as it delivers water where it is needed at the root zone and there is no wastage from spray drift.

The installation of a tank on garden sheds or outbuildings can provide an alternative supply for your garden and ensure that any summer rain can be harvested and utilised.

Worm Farms.

Worm farms are an excellent means of providing  rich vermicompost and liquid fertilizer for gardens.

Garden worms are not suitable for worm farms and the worms you purchase will usually be referred to as tiger worms, compost worms or red wrigglers.

Successful worm farming is quite simple provided a few basic requirements are met.

Choose a sheltered spot for your farm, not too hot and not too cold.

Your container can be an old bath, polystyrene box or one of the purpose built worm farms which are available.

If you use a polystyrene container, put some holes in the container and place your bedding in this, then add the worms, cover and place over another container to catch the liquid.

A bedding layer of shredded paper, leaves and some finished compost about 15cm deep is placed on the bottom of your container.

The bedding is covered with a layer of hessian, carpet or newspaper to keep the bedding dark and moist.

Keep your worm farm moist but not wet, if worms migrate to the underside of the lid it is generally a sign that your farm is too wet.

Once the worms have burrowed in add a small amount of kitchen scraps, do not add any more until these are almost gone.

To harvest the vermicompost place new food to one side of the container and when the worms have migrated to the food remove the compost from the other side.

Vermicompost makes great fertilizer for pots, top dressing garden plants and can be used as potting mix.

The liquid which trickles to the bottom of your farm is a potent liquid fertilizer, dilute using 1 part of worm tea to 9  parts of water.

Packages of worms, worm tea and worm castings are now available from Meredith Nursery

Things to Add to a Worm Farm

Vegetable peelings

Fruit peelings

Teabags

Coffee grounds

Shredded paper

Do not Add

Citrus peel or fruit

Meat

Oils

Dairy products

Onions and onion skins

In the vegetable patch plant lettuce and salad greens every 2-3 weeks to ensure a good supply for tasty summer salads. Loose leaf varieties will enable you to harvest leaves over quite a long period and they come in an attractive range of colours and textures to add interest to your garden and your salad bowl.

Keep them growing strongly with liquid fertiliser applied fortnightly.

Growing Tomatoes.

Tomatoes are warm climate plants so select a position which has the maximum amount of sunlight and protection from wind and frost.

Soil should be well drained with plenty of humus from a previous green manure crop which has been allowed to decay, aged animal manure or compost.

Calcium is necessary to strengthen the cell walls of both the plant and its fruit.

This will help to prevent blossom end rot which is caused by lack of calcium, hot weather and spasmodic watering.

Calcium is supplied by sprinkling garden lime or dolomite at about one handful per square metre, slightly more if your soil is very acidic.

Blossom end rot is a blackened sunken patch which appears at the basal end of the fruit.

The stem of the plant can be buried leaving the foliage above ground and providing your soil is well drained the plant will grow roots from the buried stem.

Liquid seaweed will encourage roots and you will have a healthier more productive plant.

Potash is important to promote growth and flowering, it is sold a sulphate of potash or muriate of potash. Potash is also available in wood ash however this is unavailable to the plants unless organic acids are present in the soil. Organic acids are present in compost so it is important to supply plenty of compost if you use wood ash.

A fortnightly dose of liquid fertilizer or seaweed solution will keep them growing strongly.

Water regularly and mulch to ensure an even supply of moisture to your plants.

Do not water overhead particularly in the evening, this helps to prevent the spread of disease spores, gently trickle water at the base of your plants and allow it to spread out under the mulch.

Allow enough space around your plants to allow air movement and prevent disease.

Support your bushes to fruit resting on the ground and being attacked by slugs and snails.

If you are accustomed to supermarket tomatoes which have been bred with tough skins for mechanical harvesting and transporting long distances you will be astounded at the flavour and texture of your home grown tomatoes.
Growing Sweetcorn

Sweetcorn is wind pollinated so always plant your corn in blocks rather than rows to ensure a good crop.

Plant in soil which has been enriched with manure or compost.

Mulch heavily to encourage lateral roots at the soil surface

Keep moist.

In the herb garden

Parsley is a must, flat leaf parsley has the most flavour, while curly leaf parsley is slightly less aromatic with a crunchy texture.

Plant when soil has warmed in spring.

Tarragon likes a well drained soil in full sun, it has a delicate licorice flavour.

Borage has sky blue star shaped flowers which can be used in salads, or to attract bees into your garden for pollination of other crops.

Coriander is best grown in spring and autumn as it bolts into flower and seeds in full sun.

Sage is a shrubby perennial with aromatic leaves and attractive flowers.

Harvest the leaves for cooking before the plant flowers when they are most fragrant.

Cut back after flowering to keep compact.

Rosemary is an evergreen shrub which makes a fragrant hedge and responds well to clipping into balls and cones.

It likes a sunny position and well drained soil.

There  are prostrate forms also available that will cascade over garden walls or banks.

Thyme, hardy perennials, some are mat forming others are small woody shrubs which thrive in full sun in well drained soil.

Clip them after flowering to encourage fresh new growth and enjoy them in salads and savoury dishes.

Oregano and marjorum are both species of origanum.

Grow in well drained soil in a sunny position and cut back after flowering.

Use in savoury dishes.

Chives are perennials which die back in winter, divide clumps every 2-3 years in early spring

The pink flower balls make an attractive border in the herb or vegetable garden.

Garlic chives have broader stems and white flowers and the flat leaves have a distinctive garlic flavour.

Lemon balm smells of lemon but is actually a relative of mint.

It makes a refreshing herbal tea and can be used wherever a lemon flavour is required.

Mints of which there are many varieties are fragrant perennials which enjoy moist soil.

Best grown in pots as they spread by means of underground stems and will quickly invade your garden

Bay,  (Laurus nobilis) grown for its aromatic leaves, it grows well in containers and can be clipped into topiary shapes. In the ground it grows slowly into a large tree.

The leaves of sweet bay are used in cooking,  however never eat the berries as they are poisonous.

Basil is grown as an annual after danger of frost has passed, it is useful in salads and essential in tomato dishes.

Dill is an aromatic annual which adds flavour to seafood.

Chervil has feathery foliage and an aniseed flavour, sow directly into the ground in moist soil and partial shade to prevent bolting to seed.

In the ornamental garden it’s time to apply fertilizer to pots and garden beds.

Use a pelletised fertiliser for around roses and perennials and give pot plants a dose of liquid fertiliser and some slow release pellets.

Be sure to use the amount recommended on the label as more is not necessarily better!

Always water before and after applying fertiliser, which should extend out to the dripline of the plant.

Plant specific fertilisers, such as low phosphorus formulas for natives, acidic for Azaleas and other acid loving plants, and citrus for lemons and other citrus give good results. We are happy to help with any queries you may have.

Keeping on top`of weeds in spring is most important to prevent the spread of fungal diseases slugs and snails which enjoy the moist conditions and will quickly decimate your young plants.

Weeds compete with your plants for food and moisture so unless they are seeding put them into the compost heap.

Deadhead or trim flowering plants and shrubs to promote shapely growth and prolong flowering. A video showing how to dead head roses is available from our website here.

Plant dianthus, impatiens, lobelia, marigold, nasturtium, petunias, salvia, aster, snapdragon, cleome and dahlias.

Monitor roses for black spot and other fungal problems, water in the morning if possible and try not to wet the leaves

We have some great potted  roses at the nursery at the moment, “Casanova” is a bright clear copper-orange, striking in garden or pot, as is “Tropical Sunset” with swirls of pinky orange and cream. “Windermere” is a pure white rose from David Austin, a small to medium bushy shrub which is free flowering and has a delightful fruity fragrance and “Heritage” another Austin, a soft pink, also fragrant and free flowering.  For fans of the “painter” roses we have “Henri Matisse” and “Alfred Sisely”.

Clip box and other hedges to keep them shapely, fertilise and mulch.

Bearded iris are at their peak now, enjoy the delicate blooms and lift and divide after flowering if necessary.

Discard the spent tubers at the centre and replant making sure the top of the tuber is above ground.

Ajuga “Catlin’s Giant” has beautiful deep blue flowers in spring and makes a stunning groundcover under roses.

Asters or Easter Daisies are a popular plant for the border; “Pink Star” has masses of soft pink flowers in late summer to mid autumn.

Part to full sun, good drainage and an application of fertilizer in mid spring will keep it growing well.

Lavenders are also blooming now trim them back when they have finished to keep them compact and bushy. L. “Ruffled Ladies are particularly handsome additions to your garden.

A little lime or dolomite is enjoyed by both bearded iris and lavenders.

In the native garden prune after flowering has finished and apply a low phosphorus fertilizer, water in and mulch well.

Natives planted now will make excellent growth if kept moist over the summer months.

Helichrysum, (strawflower) is a hardy annual which looks good in both the native or exotic garden.

Till next time

Happy gadening from

Marg and the Team at Meredith Nursery

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Meredith Nursery Newsletter – April 2008

Vol 2 No 3

Welcome to the April newsletter from Meredith Nursery we hope you enjoy it…please let us know if you would like to see any particular areas covered or any comments you have.

In this Issue Vegie patch Ornamental garden Native garden Orchard Deciduous trees Compost Making compost Compost materials Building a compost heap

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